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Old 01-06-2019, 05:41 PM   #11
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What motor do you have in it?
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Old 01-06-2019, 05:58 PM   #12
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93 cummins 5.9 with the p-pump
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Old 01-06-2019, 06:01 PM   #13
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so what you have to find

Is what is pulling that 5 to 11 amps when in drive.

does your bus have a retarder?

11 amps at 12 volts is like ummm a hair dryer going at full heat.


I would really like to know .. Is the big wire coming off the alternator really hot to the touch?

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Old 01-06-2019, 06:07 PM   #14
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pretty easy, okay, I think it is pretty easy

to disconnect the grid heaters, for the engine. They use a lot amperage when on. You can play the fuse game too.. pull one fuse check the volt and amp numbers, put the fuse back, pull the next fuse, check the numbers, put the fuse back..........

time consuming but a different approach to locating source. Done even need to know what the fuse does... that comes later.

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Old 01-06-2019, 06:45 PM   #15
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I had this issue on my Cummins 3.9, the smaller brother of the 2. If you know anything about the two, the only real difference is that the 3.9 is a 5.9 with 2 cylinders missing. Question 1 is, is your oil filter behind the alternator? Question 2 is, does the type of alternator you have, have 2 other terminals on the back that you don't use? These are terminals (+ and -) that you can tie directly to an inverter. The problem I was having is that the alternator was just close enough to the oil filter that the filter would actually give the 2 terminals something arc to and short out on. At first I made up some caps for the 2 terminals just to verify the problem. That was the problem. My long term solution was to put in a relocated oil filter kit. This may not be your problem, but it's worth checking. It's a tight fit, but if you can get your head in there far enough to look directly down in-between the alternator and oil filter, and you see what kind of space there is between the 2. I had about a 1/4 inch of space.
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:31 PM   #16
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the oil filter is under the alternator, just like you say. but only a + and - post other than a clip in plug.

and when i installed the last alternator, i busted up the cap that came with it pretty good. the positive terminal is uncovered.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:47 PM   #17
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I would try and come up with some kind of cap for that just to be safe, and to see if that's the problem. It's still possible that it's arcing to ground. Like I said, what you described is exactly what the problem I had. I don't know how hard it is for you to get at and change your oil filter, but a relocation kit not only solves this problem but also makes changing your filter so much easier. If I remember right I paid about 125 for mine. Now my filter is right down near my external transmission filter, and much further from the engine heat.
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Old 01-06-2019, 10:13 PM   #18
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i'll get it started tomorrow again and see if i can locate the draw.

i took a short video of the gauges when running but it seems to be very slowly uploading. will post it when i can


i have no retarder.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:08 PM   #19
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https://youtu.be/IglyOorm27I
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turf View Post



Was this done from a cold start?

If so, seems pretty normal to see fluctuations in instruments.



Alternator is working hard at this point from cranking and replacing power from glow plugs.



Have you determined if belt is ok yet for tightness?

They squeak a bit on shutdown.



It should level off but not sure how long that takes.
Battery condition and clean connections everywhere is everything


You look ok to me.
Does it change in drive or was that in drive?

Wasn't the engine stalling in drive?


John
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