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Old 01-08-2019, 06:27 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
then the motor diesengages at complete key off?
-Christopher
yours turn off with a key? i got a cable rigged to the solenoid.

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Old 01-08-2019, 07:33 PM   #42
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yours turn off with a key? i got a cable rigged to the solenoid.

Removed my solenoid and cable to it now as well. Just seems right on a diesel...
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:44 PM   #43
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Quote:
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yours turn off with a key? i got a cable rigged to the solenoid.



I think we are talking about different solenoids here, one for the starter and one for the fuel.



Which one is on a cable, surely not the starter one?



Why did you make that change, bad ignition switch?

Is the ign switch on the steering column or on the dash?



When you put the bus in gear there is some linkage movement at the transmission right? Maybe that movement is wearing thru a pos cable and draining your battery.

Get yourself a battery tester, hygrometer type to read specific gravity of each cell.

Get yer Carhartts on and get under that baby.


Why the alternator change before you test it?


And the plot thickens,... can't believe you folks have no suggestions. Help a brother out.


John
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Old 01-08-2019, 10:04 PM   #44
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yes different solenoid!

i'll test the high rpms output before i take it off. should i test at start up when its good or when its failing and being erratic?
the cable chaffing is something to check out. i suppose i could have forgotten the trans ground strap. i need to crawl under and look.

it got cold here last week and i froze up my waste tank... like you said ... the plot thickens

i just want to get to quartzite next week

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Old 01-08-2019, 10:42 PM   #45
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If the only time you have charging problem is when the bus is placed in D it is likely a short related to the transmission or transmission linkage as John suggested. I'm not familiar with an AT545 but must have a switch for reverse light and backup alarm. Since you changed the transmission is it possible this wiring got sent to ground causing a short?

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Old 01-09-2019, 12:05 AM   #46
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a week or 2 ago, before i realized that the problem seems related to the transmission, i thought i was chasing an electric short.

i've gone through the fuse box with the bus keyed on and off, looking for voltage drops, but i got skunked out and never found anything.

this past weekend i figured out the drain seems to be tied to any gear but neutral.
i'll try and get a friend to help me check for voltage drops when in gear at high throttle. that's at least a 2 person task.
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Old 01-09-2019, 06:01 AM   #47
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Two heads and two pair of hands will be a good thing.
Two tests work too for me, at startup and when you drop it into gear.

Let the engine warm a couple minutes and smooth out before running at 2000 rpm for testing.
If no throttle lock, your buddy can hold it at the desired rpm.



What you want is for the alternator to be working hard after the startup on a cold engine.

Note that output voltage and then check for the same result off the battery positive cable to ground.

They should be very close in voltage reading and if not, the cable between them is suspect.

An easy change to do unless you can get a megger to check resistance internally. Be careful using a megger, they bite hard! Never hold both leads at the ends when in use.



Disconnect batteries tho first to avoid loss of smoke.


Lots of times these problems go unnoticed when it isn't really cold out.
Cold sure depletes electrical reserves fast if your equipment isn't in top shape.
This is new territory for me seeing a tranny being engaged and causing a dramatic voltage loss...has to be a first time for everything I guess.

Glad I lived long enough to witness this, now for the cure.


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Old 01-09-2019, 01:48 PM   #48
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i'll post the vid asap but here is my results

700 idle at alt 14.09, at battery 14.1
2000 rpm alt 14.1, battery 14.1

i am not able to recreate the short condition yet. everythhng seems ok
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:24 PM   #49
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i'll post the vid asap but here is my results

700 idle at alt 14.09, at battery 14.1
2000 rpm alt 14.1, battery 14.1

i am not able to recreate the short condition yet. everythhng seems ok

Results are what would be my max on alt output voltage. Others might differ but we don't know specs for that alternator. You got 'em?


I think it means battery cabling in pretty fine performance mode for now.


Keep the test up for a while till you really trust it. It could change at any minute. Not optimal issue if trying to hit the road soon.



So victory today ^5.. what's next?



Keep batteries ready to go.


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Old 01-09-2019, 04:02 PM   #50
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Does your 1545 have the same wired back up light pressure switch as the 545?
When I had to replace back up switch the wires were really mucked and rubbing,touching,covered in oil.
Any gear but neutral will cause a pressure switch to read and if it's wires are groundin and rubbing or pinched buy the shift cable?
Just guessing?
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Old 01-09-2019, 04:29 PM   #51
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cold start




warmed up with fault 2 hours later

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Old 01-09-2019, 04:36 PM   #52
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listening to the conversation

my bet there is a transmission wire pinched between starter motor or bolt or something......... fuse for transmission stuff is more than 10 amp and that is why fuse has not popped.

a guess from all the inputs.

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Old 01-09-2019, 06:07 PM   #53
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after i shut that down, i have a friend that has FLIR on his phone.

he check around the fuse box and the relays circled were glowing red on his camera... anyone know where they go?

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Old 01-09-2019, 06:43 PM   #54
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Ok those video cold and warm were good. When warm can you run at 2000rpm and see any difference. That alt needs to spin faster, not idle for testing. Check with voltmeter off the alt and the battery as before.


Do you know where the grid heating relay is?


If so, there will be a bigger wire coming in and bigger going out to the grid heater.


Disconnect the one going into the heater and tape the end off.


Start your warm engine without the heater in the circuit.



Observe guages and check with voltmeter as above too.


So, one start with heater and 2000.


Second start, no heater, 2000 rpm..and recheck guages and with


voltmeter again at battery and alt.




No clue on those relays really but get buddy to shoot them again with camera when you shutdown with no heater working. Process of elimination, could be starter relay. It should cool off after engine start. and that will show in infrared.


John

Follow that?


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Old 01-09-2019, 07:08 PM   #55
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i know the vicinity of the grid heater so i will check it out and try and disconnect it copy that on the flir again. process of elimination.

at 2000 rpms when in fault, the alternator was reading the same as the battery. 10.4 if i remember right. the handheld takes 2 hands so i had to turn off the video, but i checked.

3 hours after turning off the bus, the battery voltage has recovered to 12.2.

thanks for the help!! i very much appreciate the input
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:54 PM   #56
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do i have a grid heater?

this looks more like a spacer. i see no electrical connection

here are 3 of 4 sides of the spacer/heater. the 4 side is against the cylinder head cover.



and




quickserve lists it as heater/spacer. part #AH9021
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:00 PM   #57
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Ya...the spacers and the heaters look pretty much the same but if no electrical connection...it is just a spacer.
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:07 PM   #58
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do i have a grid heater?

this looks more like a spacer. i see no electrical connection

here are 3 of 4 sides of the spacer/heater. the 4 side is against the cylinder head cover.



and




quickserve lists it as heater/spacer. part #AH9021

No wiring so no heater there. Must be for something else wit that hose fitting.


Anyone know where grid heater is, front or back of engine? Will definitely have a wiring connection with relay in close proximity. About #6 size wire?


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Old 01-09-2019, 08:32 PM   #59
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The heater would be where the spacer in his picture is. At least when used in a truck or other application.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:26 PM   #60
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The heater would be where the spacer in his picture is. At least when used in a truck or other application.



Is that part of the sir intake plumbing Ronnie?



Maybe the wire is in the blue hose then with a joint going to the grid relay contactor.



Turf where does that blue hose go to? Does that housing get hot to the touch when starting up? It will glow like a toaster element in there so will be very hot, careful.


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