After market upgrades for 5.9 - Page 2

headin2MT · 01-15-2011, 11:10 AM

Thank you so much for the info, I talked to a fella in montana and he said about the same thing, if you whant more speed, get a gear change in the rear. Well, i dont have the cash right now for that, so he suggested "removing" the governor?
Does that sound right? How would I do this? should I do this? I could monitor heat output myself, i'd love to be able just to have a little more get up and go. Is there anyway someone could help me with this? the removal or tampering of the governor? Or Would I just change the springs with the spring kit? I've never done it before, so please excuse the lameness of my questions and bear with me, I promise to be a quick learner.

nevrenufhp · 01-15-2011, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by headin2MT

Thank you so much for the info, I talked to a fella in montana and he said about the same thing, if you whant more speed, get a gear change in the rear. Well, i dont have the cash right now for that, so he suggested "removing" the governor?
Does that sound right? How would I do this? should I do this? I could monitor heat output myself, i'd love to be able just to have a little more get up and go. Is there anyway someone could help me with this? the removal or tampering of the governor? Or Would I just change the springs with the spring kit? I've never done it before, so please excuse the lameness of my questions and bear with me, I promise to be a quick learner.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlWbNdLOE_A

You can simply tighten the gov springs by 3 clicks for free. Follow the video, even though it's for an IH, but the procedure is identical. It will get you 300 more rpm, just make sure you do both sets of springs. That should take you to about 73mph. As far as governor removal? It's not possible. It wont run without it. While you're getting your hands dirty, slide the fuel plate forward. It'll be like a whole new truck after those 2 tricks. I'm not going to cover how to do timing, because it's a lot more involved & better to have a shop do it.

headin2MT · 01-27-2011, 06:30 PM

Thanks alot, I'll give it a try and let u know how it goes!

headin2MT · 01-31-2011, 06:43 PM

Well we did the springs, and I have to say it was the easiest thing I've done on this vehicle thus far. Still on the fence about sliding the plate forward, as I have checked out the screws holding it in and cant find a good way to get the break off screw out or the flat head one. Seems easy enough, but If I can get someone else to give me motivational advice such as how to get them out, I'd appreaciate it.

nevrenufhp · 01-31-2011, 07:25 PM

For the slotted, I use a long, yet fat screwdriver, and put a wrench on it. That way you get leverage as you push down on it. They're pretty tight. Another route is an impact screwdriver, but usually not needed. The break off screw, I use a small chisel, and either knock the head all the way off, or just make a slot for a screwdriver to fit. You can also peck on it at a little angle to help loosen it.
The screws they use are 4mm coarse, and available at any parts store. The harder to get to ones, I replace with an allen head.

Trust me, you'll want to slide the plate after doing those springs.

frank-id · 02-01-2011, 01:07 AM

Many times an engine maker will add a locking compound as locktite or a special fastener to prevent any movement. A few ways to release the fastener would a sharp tap on the screwdriver while energy is applied to the screwdriver, a helper required. Another method is to focus some heat on fastener to release locktite. Some times a good solid hit with a hammer will release the fastener. Cutting the fastener is not a great idea as the fastener will need to be reused. After the bolt is removed, use a correct tap to clear any debris in threaded hole. Frank

headin2MT · 02-03-2011, 01:30 PM

One quick question, after the springs, and when I do the fuel plate, will I need to change the timing? I really dot know if I'm capable, or comfortable with messing with the timing. Soooo, will I need to?

headin2MT · 02-03-2011, 01:31 PM

Also, why do they even use the break off screw? Could a fella just replace it with a regular screw? Same for the flat head, could you replace it with a bolt headed screw?

nevrenufhp · 02-03-2011, 02:39 PM

They use the breakoff screw as an anti-tamper method, and to prove to the inspectors the pump hasn't been messed with. No reason not to replace them with more convenient screws. advancing the timing is a good idea, but it's really worth it to have a shop do it. Otherwise, it'll run pretty good as is.

headin2MT · 02-04-2011, 10:06 AM

And thank you much sir, I really appreaciate all the help you fellas have been able to give .

logistix · 03-09-2011, 12:36 PM

1. Turn the boost up on the turbo
2. Use a methanol injection kit from snow performance (hit the spray switch manually while going up a big hill or "as needed")
3. Weight reduction. (Plastic gas tank, lighter weight building materials, this is a stretch though since you'd need to shed around 1,000 pounds to notice a difference. And then when you start building and remodeling, you add the weight right back to it!
4. Heat treat/Harden the transmission gears and add a tranny intercooler to handle #5 below
5. Port and Polish your engine out to like 6.3 liters or something. This is a lot of work.

#1 is free
#2 is cheap and safe
#3 is personal preferance
#4 and #5 are pricey and personal preferance

You could look into changing your rear end axle gear, but higher rpm's on the highway = using more fuel (good for race cars, not so good for a school bus) I would just be happy with the way your bus is now. You aren't hauling 10 people and a trailer with a truck on it everywhere you go...

nevrenufhp · 03-09-2011, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by logistix

1. Turn the boost up on the turbo
2. Use a methanol injection kit from snow performance (hit the spray switch manually while going up a big hill or "as needed")
3. Weight reduction. (Plastic gas tank, lighter weight building materials, this is a stretch though since you'd need to shed around 1,000 pounds to notice a difference. And then when you start building and remodeling, you add the weight right back to it!
4. Heat treat/Harden the transmission gears and add a tranny intercooler to handle #5 below
5. Port and Polish your engine out to like 6.3 liters or something. This is a lot of work.

#1 is free
#2 is cheap and safe
#3 is personal preferance
#4 and #5 are pricey and personal preferance

You could look into changing your rear end axle gear, but higher rpm's on the highway = using more fuel (good for race cars, not so good for a school bus) I would just be happy with the way your bus is now. You aren't hauling 10 people and a trailer with a truck on it everywhere you go...

I'm just going to chime in about #1 & 5, and the ending:
-Turning up the boost on the turbo wont add power. It just makes a choke point when it's making higher power, and EGT goes up higher than it normally would if the wastegate is not even messed with. Adding fuel on a diesel makes more power.
-porting & polishing doesnt add displacement, it just helps the air get it & out faster & easier. There are ways to bore & stroke a 5.9, but for the trouble & expense, you could swap in an 8.3 C series for less cash. Those can be hot rodded too.
-they were talking about gearing the rear to lower the highway rpm. Lower RPM= better mpg.

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