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Old 05-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #11
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Is there anyplace that works on buses? Remember, it came from a race of buses.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:33 PM   #12
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Have you checked your alternator output? It should be reading over 14 volts.

When troubleshooting you want to change one variable at a time. Here's how I would approach the problem:

1) Disconnect the isolater (both banks and the switch lead) and put a good charge on the house batteries. Discharged house batteries will pull down the starting battery if they are discharged and the isolater is connecting the two banks with no alternator output.

2) Verify that the starting battery is holding a charge. Disconnect the cables at the battery and charge it overnight. Remove the charger and let the battery rest for an hour to drain off the surface charge. Test with a voltmeter - you should see 12.7v or close to it. Let the battery sit overnight and test again - you should be seeing 12.6v or so.

3) Test alternator output. Reattach the battery cables and start the engine. Test voltage at the battery posts. You should see 14+ volts at the battery posts. If you only see battery voltage your alternator is toast or there's a bad connection. My guess is that this is your problem.

4) Let the engine recharge the starting battery then shut off the engine and leave it overnight. If the starting battery is dead the next day the problem is not with the isolater. If the starting battery is still charged after an overnight rest the chassis wiring is likely OK (no slow drains).

5) Hook up the starting battery to the isolater (but not the house batteries), leave it overnight then check starting battery voltage. If voltage has dropped the isolater is the problem.

6) Verify that the house bank is still at full charge then reattach the house bank to the isolater. Let it sit overnight and test both banks for a large voltage drop.

There are much quicker ways to do this but it requires equipment and knowledge that a beginner wouldn't be expected to have.
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:00 PM   #13
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When there's electrical problems I was always taught to look for electrical tape where someone worked on the harness previously. That's the problem about 99% of the time. The other times I have to pay someone to fix it. There's no telling how many times the electrical system has been altered before we got these buses.
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:43 PM   #14
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When you are running it and it shows 11.4v at the battery, test at the back of alternator, if it is the same you probably have a charging problem, if it shows higher voltage at alternator, you more than likely have bad connection somewhere or bad isolator. you can also check voltage at the isolator both input and output. Centre line is the input. Does you isolator have 3 posts or 4 posts?
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakn View Post
When you are running it and it shows 11.4v at the battery, test at the back of alternator, if it is the same you probably have a charging problem, if it shows higher voltage at alternator, you more than likely have bad connection somewhere or bad isolator. you can also check voltage at the isolator both input and output. Centre line is the input. Does you isolator have 3 posts or 4 posts?
4 but only 3 are connected
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:35 PM   #16
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4 but only 3 are connected
If you have 4, you may have to hook the smaller centre one to the ignition switch for it to work properly.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:36 PM   #17
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Here is a picture



https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...142300_800.jpg
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