Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-04-2019, 02:01 PM   #1
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: 495,270,340,9,7,28,66
Posts: 85
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 65?
MD shop/mechanic recommendation

I'm wrapping up my conversion and now I need a turbo. Area shop has quoted me at $6000+.

No.

I'm in Montgomery County Prince George's county area. Bus is a TC2000 5.9.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Stuntmanmitch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2019, 02:39 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 1,128
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
You're right outside dc? That's why your costs are through the roof.

Is your engine a 12 valve or 24 valve?

Being a 1997, I'll assume it's a 6bt with a p7100 injection pump.

If that's the case. The stock turbo I believe is an h1c by holset. If you can't find one of those, you'd be better off by upgrading to an hx35. The hx35 is roughly the same but is wastegated for quicker turbo spooling.

You can usually find cummins turbos cheap because all of the dodge boys ditch them when they increase the hp.

Here is an h1c I found near frederick, MD with a quick craigslist search.
https://frederick.craigslist.org/pts...844075397.html

To be 100% sure, pull the numbers off your current turbo and see what you have.
Booyah45828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2019, 03:08 PM   #3
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: 495,270,340,9,7,28,66
Posts: 85
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 65?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
You're right outside dc? That's why your costs are through the roof.

Is your engine a 12 valve or 24 valve?

Being a 1997, I'll assume it's a 6bt with a p7100 injection pump.

If that's the case. The stock turbo I believe is an h1c by holset. If you can't find one of those, you'd be better off by upgrading to an hx35. The hx35 is roughly the same but is wastegated for quicker turbo spooling.

You can usually find cummins turbos cheap because all of the dodge boys ditch them when they increase the hp.

Here is an h1c I found near frederick, MD with a quick craigslist search.
https://frederick.craigslist.org/pts...844075397.html

To be 100% sure, pull the numbers off your current turbo and see what you have.
I don't doubt it, location inflation.
Its the 12v.
I'd rather have someone else do it unless its as straight forward as pulling the old reverse installing the new but don't dare me lol.
Thanks for the info. I'm waiting for another shop to call back with a quote. Its very comforting to hove options.
Stuntmanmitch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2019, 03:27 PM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 1,128
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
It's pretty straight forward and easy. 4 bolts hold it to the manifold. You'll have a clamp holding on the intake pipe, a clamp holding the outlet pipe on, a clamp for the exhaust, an oil supply hose, and an oil return hose.

The biggest pain, in my experience, is the heat makes all the bolts and clamps super tight and want to round off.

Other then that, replace the gaskets when you do it, and use plenty of penetrating oil.
Booyah45828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2019, 04:26 PM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: 495,270,340,9,7,28,66
Posts: 85
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 65?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
It's pretty straight forward and easy. 4 bolts hold it to the manifold. You'll have a clamp holding on the intake pipe, a clamp holding the outlet pipe on, a clamp for the exhaust, an oil supply hose, and an oil return hose.

The biggest pain, in my experience, is the heat makes all the bolts and clamps super tight and want to round off.

Other then that, replace the gaskets when you do it, and use plenty of penetrating oil.
10-4
Should have done it myself 2 weeks ago
Stuntmanmitch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2019, 04:55 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 11,656
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
when im taking the exhaust side of a turbo apart, I often heat the area where the bolts thread into but not the bolts themselves ... it can help pop those pesky bolts loose by expanding the metal around the bolt..
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2019, 03:08 PM   #7
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: 495,270,340,9,7,28,66
Posts: 85
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 65?
I have a shiny new hx35w, wonder if the swishy noises are upgraded too.

Stuck though with install:

The new turbo doesn't look like it will install the same. The housing needs to be rotated to hook up correctly with intake plumbing what does that mean for oil feed and return lines. The Wastegate has a hose that runs to a fitting tapped into the housing. The old turbo has a line from the wastegate up and across into the intake?

Disclaimer: just because you can repeat a foreign language doesn't mean you know wtf your talking about.

I will upload pics of what i'm looking at. Right now I'm 4 bolts and that wastegate line thing away from getting the old turbo out. Not sure how to even get a wrench on the driver side bolt near the rear.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190412_152706[1].jpg (106.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190412_152739[1].jpg (128.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190412_153340[1].jpg (173.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190412_153356[1].jpg (136.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190412_162821[1].jpg (162.7 KB, 8 views)
Stuntmanmitch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2019, 03:32 PM   #8
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 7,187
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
You can unbolt the cold half from the hot half and clock it in the direction you need.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2019, 03:39 PM   #9
Almost There
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: 495,270,340,9,7,28,66
Posts: 85
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 65?
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
You can unbolt the cold half from the hot half and clock it in the direction you need.
sweet....Then use the same waste gate line thing and a fitting to block off the hole. Thanks Needed someone else to talk to beside myself
Stuntmanmitch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2019, 04:09 PM   #10
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 1,128
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
Both the hot side, and the cold side will unbolt and can be clocked on the cartridge(center).

Your current turbo might have to be dropped out the bottom. To do this, you might have to remove the first section of exhaust, slide the turbo back, and then down.

Replace all hoses and gaskets. The heat kills them and you don't want to have them burst.

That looks like a cheap chinese turbo. Be careful with those because the quality is less then desired on a lot of them. I don't use them because a turbo spins around 100k rpm and it isn't something I'd like to have go bad.

You never said why you were changing your turbo to begin with? You can rebuild them if they're not damaged.
Booyah45828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.