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Old 12-05-2014, 08:53 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
Re: NHH 220 pancake in Crown coach questions

The repair shop is running into issues, they replaced the front shocks, wheel seals, and repaired one leafspring.
When they got to the back to do the same they did the usual procedure for pulling the axle, some sort of banging on the end if I understood the tech correctly and it didn't budge. They say the axle has to come out to replace the inner bearing seals but the seals are only wet and not leaking, brakes are at 60% and dry.
The questions, is there a special technique for pulling a crown rear axle?
Could my seals be wet from old fluid in the diff? (It's pretty dark)
And lastly, should I let it ride with fresh diff oil and maybe stop leak?

I finally got a pic of my leaking injector, it seems like I could loosen the top nut then snug up the bottom nut?

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Old 12-09-2014, 10:30 AM   #22
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Location: West Ohio
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Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
Re: NHH 220 pancake in Crown coach questions

Most likely the axle splines or the axle itself is tweaked causing it to bind when being removed. No special technique for removal, it's just a standard full floating axle design. You'll have to decided on what you want to do with it. I've never had much luck with stop leak, and if the seals are wet now, they most likely will leak before they dry up.

That bottom nut is the transfer tube(not sure on the exact name) that takes fuel from the line to the injector. I've never seen one leak fuel on the outside of the engine, it's usually always on the inside. They can leak oil to the outside, but I've never seen fuel. You can try and loosen the line and tighten the tube but idk what the torque specs would be. If you're sure its fuel, I'd check and make sure that a line isn't cracked right there and that the fittings are tight. Otherwise it might be oil and could be leaking past the rubber seal for the tube.
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:52 AM   #23
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
After close examination, I think it's oil. Diesel and fresh oil have a lot in common but this leak doesn't smell like fuel. I tightened up the fitting and will check it out after the next drive.
You guys have been helpfull and I appreciate any and all assistance, I'm driving this bus from Portland Oregon to Wilkes barre Pennsylvania in about a month and I'm getting nervous about all the small things.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:43 PM   #24
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Year: 1946
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That's quite a little Maiden Voyage there pardner! Best O' luck and keep the shiny side up.
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:12 PM   #25
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You have a nice looking bus. Any pics of the inside?
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Old 11-08-2016, 02:44 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opus View Post
Some guys would pay to have such minimal oil leaks.
Buses of this age used a great number of PAPER Gaskets. As they age, they shrink quite a bit. As long as drips do not collect into puddles (No matter how small!) you are good to go. When you operate the coach, here is a good rule of thumb to follow, put an Hours Meter on your Coach. Use this formula to determine when to service your Coach. Every 300 hours, change your oil and filters. If the air filter does not look too choked, you can blow it out, from the inside out, three times before replacing it. If you have a coach that is so old it uses a Oil Bath Air Filter, Clean out the housing and fill with fresh oil. You appear to have a Manual Transmission. Make sure it has a Magnetic Drain Plug. Drain the transmission and fill every 1200 hours. Coach Owners with Automatic transmissions also need a magnetic drain plug and a proper EXTERNAL fluid filter. Clean the plug and change the filter every 900 hours. NEVER completely change the fluid unless it smells badly burnt. As long as it is clean and kept cool, just top off the level after servicing the filter and drain plug. There are expensive oil cleaner Filter systems that completely clean the motor oil so you never have to replace the oil. I recommend those when you are full time in your coach. They can save you LOTS of money on oil. I have forty years experience with all things diesel. This Preventive Maintenance plan has served me and my customers well for 38 of those Years. I have 217,000 miles on my Cummins E450 Ford. I never change the oil, just the filters. I use a 'Turbinator' (Dixie Chopper Commercial Lawn Mowers - Turbinator Precleaner) to keep the oil clean. I run one for my Automatic Trasnmission as well. My fluids are always clean.
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:00 PM   #27
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Pancake in Crown Coach

There is an outfit in Twin Falls, Idaho that purchased the Franz Oil Filter. I have used these filters for years. My uncle, a R&D engineer for Boeing, did extensive tests on the Franz Oil Filter with great results.
The Franz Oil Filter uses toilet paper for a cartridge. You never have to change the oil, just change the filter. I have a PU that I have been driving with the same oil for 100K miles.
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:42 PM   #28
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That Frantz filter is a godsend. I have one on all my personal vehicles. The output goes right into another Turbolator that cleans the oil. Again I don't like to change oil or transmission fluid. I never change my fluids. A 5 gallon air tank contains 250 psi, a pressure regulator, set a 90psi feeds the centrifuge. Oil, especially Synthetic, does not wear out!
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Old 01-20-2017, 10:24 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigPaul367 View Post
Oil, especially Synthetic, does not wear out!
Like hell it doesn't. Every oil will lose viscosity over time due to the shearing forces found inside and engine. That loss is especially noticeable if the engine employs a heui injection system because the shearing is increased.

Granted, certain oils are better at resisting shearing, but none are immune to it.

Also, having cleaner oil due to a better filtration system will enable longer oil changes, but the oil still has to be routinely monitored for additive/wear levels and viscosity.

Finally, this thread is from 2014-2015. Try not to bump old threads unless you have a similar problem. Otherwise things become off-track/confusing and people start posting solution to problems that were solved long ago. If you want to promote using centrifugal filters, start a new thread.
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