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Old 03-14-2016, 07:48 PM   #51
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So the third eye thing was from a rave?

I've never used a dye and I don't know how, but I can see where it would be useful. I stopped wrenching 35 years ago so there's a lot of new tricks for me to learn.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:36 AM   #52
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Ouch! 42 bucks? And it doesn't work the way you want it to???

Amazon.com: Tracer Products TP34000601 UV Fluorescent Leak Detection Dye - Set of 6: Automotive

Try this maybe??
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Old 03-15-2016, 09:36 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Docsgsxr View Post
Ouch! 42 bucks? And it doesn't work the way you want it to???

Amazon.com: Tracer Products TP34000601 UV Fluorescent Leak Detection Dye - Set of 6: Automotive

Try this maybe??
If you use this stuff, do you need to start with a fresh oil change?
Also do you need a black light to see it.
I was reading the Q&A at the bottom of the page and it said something to the affect that you need to drive your vehicle for 100 miles to make sure it was throughly circulated.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:51 AM   #54
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If you use this stuff, do you need to start with a fresh oil change?
Also do you need a black light to see it.
I was reading the Q&A at the bottom of the page and it said something to the affect that you need to drive your vehicle for 100 miles to make sure it was throughly circulated.
No, current oil is fine.

A black light helps immensely, but sometimes isn't necessary depending on natural light available and your eyesight. The same thing with the glasses.

The outside should be cleaned thoroughly first, then drive it, checking for leaks every so often.

Seeing how much he's leaking, the uv dye shouldn't be nessecary. You should be able to find the leak without it. The uv dye stuff is mainly meant to be a tattle tale for drips and other leaks that you struggle to find. Such as those with water or fuel that will evaporate away, leaving no trace. This here shouldn't be too hard to find.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:05 PM   #55
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No, current oil is fine.

Seeing how much he's leaking, the uv dye shouldn't be nessecary. You should be able to find the leak without it. The uv dye stuff is mainly meant to be a tattle tale for drips and other leaks that you struggle to find.
part of the purchase was a $25 UV flashlight that does nothing to the dye, so it will be returned too. The whole purpose of the dye was to see how high up on the block the oil was coming from. I can see oil at the bottom but have no real confidence on how far up the leak starts.

I did however fix the fuel leak with my monster o-ring kit



the hardest part was getting the purge valve off the filter can



Valve




mounting port with tiny Allen bolts(and yes I dropped one)




replaced these 4 o-rings and reinstall

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Old 04-01-2016, 01:28 PM   #56
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Well?


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Old 04-01-2016, 03:04 PM   #57
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I am glad someone is keeping tabs on me, as I have put this thing on the back burner. The weather has been **** here(I don't like working in the rain) AND, since the UV trick failed, I shot some video with a GoPro mounted to a selfie-stick, but still could not get camera/light/stick combo up into the crevice, so.....I ordered a video-borescope(always wanted one) and it will be here next week hopefully. I REALLY want to get an idea where the oil is coming from before I pull the air compressor.

Also ordered more solar panels, more A/V equipment

This week I am cutting holes in the bus.



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Old 05-09-2016, 01:00 PM   #58
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So I got my scope in a few weeks ago but have been enjoying the weather and was in no hurry to crawl back under the bus.

I did finally, and was sprayed with diesel from the "fix" I did few weeks ago. But now I guess all the O-rings I put in completely gone, as diesel sprayed out as soon as I hit the starter(like a hose)

I am guessing I need to order a new purge valve, or can I save this one somehow? Maybe I put it back together wrong? Nitrile rubber and diesel don't mix?




Any clues would be appreciated, if I need to order one, where would I shop?
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:52 PM   #59
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Genosgarage.com 800-755-1715


http://www.genosgarage.com/product/3...s/drain-valves


I am told that nitrile is OK for diesel, not bio diesel.

The o rings should be rather snug and fill the grove. Large enough to have some resistance upon assembly.

Open it up, let's see the inside rings.


I take the canister off to r and r the valve.
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:43 PM   #60
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find you engine id number and register with cummin's quickserve.

it has build info and part numbers for anything on your motor.

https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

free registration
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