Pulling the 5.9 with the at 545 still bolted on

[cadillackid]

I first saw tgat jack at ECCB's roof raising.. and it came in SUPER helpful when I did my transmission upgrade swap..

looks like you got this thing under way and lookin good on supporting everything!!!

as for pullinfg engine and trans together.. why would you NOT do that on an RE or FE bus?

on a dognose i would say dont pull them together just because you are hoisting everything up and typical rolling hoists get unruly with that long extending weight.. becomes a balance and tip-over issue

in this case Id think pullng the engine / trans together would be the way to go.. and then separate them on the ground if you need to at all.
-Christopher

[Versatile]

Would pulling the head before removal be of any benefit? Clearance?

[Rivetboy]

I believe their is enough clearance . Today it comes out today so more pictures this evening. Spent yesterday draining fluids removing the exhaust all the way back to the rear bumper. It completely came apart at all of the clamps and is 4 inch stainless steel. Everything is cleaned up the bus is rock solid on the
stands too.Also removed and tagged most of the wiring and starter and alternator. A few miscellanous wires and air lines and the dreiveshaft and away we go.

[Rivetboy]

That HF trans jack in the back should solve all of the balance issues . At least that is the plan.

[Rivetboy]

Worked all weekend on the final steps to remove the engine. Needed a couple of 7/8 and a 1 1/16 open end wrenches to remove the trans cooler stainless steel hoses. After the driveshaft was removed and the bearing cups secured with electrical tape, it was easy access to remove them. Starter was straight forward as was the alternator. Pulled off the turbo for overhaul. Liquid wrench and tappy tappy on all the turbo nuts with a drift punch then a box wrench with light tappy tappy to free them. All of them came off fairly easy. That is a good practice on any rusted bolt or nuts on a stud. The 25 mm 1/2 drive crowsfoot easily removed the main air pressure line. Had to polish the inside it was a little tight on the fitting. The threaded fuel line to the lift pump was clamped as was the return line from the injector pump and disconnected. Accelerator return spring and maybe 6 sensors disconnected and flagged with tape and labeled with magic marker. The trans was one bolt for the modulator 2 big bolts and a cotter pin for the linkage and the speedo cable plus the dipstick and a ground strap, both bolted to the bellhousing. A few misc hoses and draining the power steering and the trans and engine also.

Then, it took a 3/4 drive impact to remove the bolts holding the bellhousing to the mounts. They were tight!

Then the fun began. Could not get the the trans oil filter off. Strap wrench was at home tried all kinds of farmboy tricks on it and it would not budge. Wasted 2 hours screwing with it. Did not want to pound a screwdriver through because when that does not work you end up with a razor sharp shredded filter that you still have to remove. Go to unbolt it and 2 of the bolts are rounded.
Another hour from he..

Finally ready It is 3 and we are pissed and tired, we rig the motor strap the trans jack and go for it The motor turned a little when it was lifted because the hoist points are diagonal across the block. I thought it could be pushed over to pull it out. NOT
As it was lifted the front pitched down and pushed the tailcone of the trans into the floor which did not allow the bellhousing mount ears clearance to to come out of the saddle mounts. The center of gravity was a bit to far aft.

It was 5 and time to go home. I decided to re rig it with bridals and customise a 2 ton load leveler to try again next Friday.
So more pictures coming
This time for sure!

[Rivetboy]

Got back to it yesterday with the load leveler. Still could not find the sweet spot where the load would lift level and allow the belhosing tabs to come out of the saddles. The 2 piece rubber pads with a round bushing were also a problem.

Made the decision to seperate the trans from the engine since it is already strapped to the AT 545.
Put in the barring tool and turned it over and found the bolts holding the torque converter.
Had some freinds from Hawaii stop by and then we got BBQ and that was it.
Kind of glad need some time off from the bus anyhow.
Pics to come.
Next Friday for sure!

Hey Rocky, want to see me pull a 5.9 out of the bus ?

Awww that trick never works

Presto....

You know the rest.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Rivetboy

Hey Rocky, want to see me pull a 5.9 out of the bus ?

Awww that trick never works

Presto....

You know the rest.

Glad to see those turbo bolts cooperated. It's always the little things that take 4 hours to repair.

You'll get it. Weird it doesn't want to budge- everything disconnected?

Thanks for posting pics. I hope you aren't renting the hoist by the hour.

[Rivetboy]

There just isn't enough room to rig it level and then find the cg without running out of room over the hoist. In retrospect the next time will modify the engine cradle with 4 screw jacks.
Lifting it level from the bottom would be an easier way to go for the task but much more of an investment to build the fixture.
Still would drop the trans though.

[Rivetboy]

Dropped the trans and lifted the motor on the hoist and dragged it out. Lowered it into my cart and ratchet strapped it down. Worked perfect. Then rolled the trans out.
Heck it is 1/2 done as I already have the new trans.....
Also am loving the Torin socket organisers.
You cannot buy just 1

[EastCoastCB]

Hell yeah, thats awesome progress yall keep it up.

[cadillackid]

love this!!! your prep efforts and jigs you made look to have worked fantastic!!!!!!!

this is the kind of build thread I love to read!!!

what trans did you remove and what is the new one you are putting in?

-Christopher

[Rusty]

You are a pro !!! Please post your rates for future reference.

Did you figure out what the problem was earlier? Looks like you pulled the lines from the back 3 cylinders.

Great build keep on keepin'!!!!

[Rivetboy]

problem is oil leak from the cover under the injection pump which is impossible to access without pulling engine. the replacement trans is another at 545 but am shopping for an mt 643

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Rivetboy

problem is oil leak from the cover under the injection pump which is impossible to access without pulling engine. the replacement trans is another at 545 but am shopping for an mt 643

Gotcha. I have an 8.3L cummins with a leak in the lower cover of injection pump, can't get to it without pulling compressor, power steering, etc. Just to squirt $2 of goop to seal. On the list....

[Rivetboy]

You know Rusty I swore off British Motor Cars and Pre Evolution Harleys years ago...
Have I possibly screwed up?

[Rivetboy]

Lines were pulled due to interference with chains in first pull configuration. All lines have to come off to pull pump for access any way so kind of a moot point.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Rivetboy

You know Rusty I swore off British Motor Cars and Pre Evolution Harleys years ago...
Have I possibly screwed up?

Pre evo harleys are a decent thing to swear off. I've taken some apart. They're crap.
British stuff... well I never went there.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Pre evo harleys are a decent thing to swear off. I've taken some apart. They're crap.
British stuff... well I never went there.

Oh, you have to get something with Lucas electrical work. It's a thing of beauty- positive grounding.

[Rivetboy]

I had an MG Midget with positive ground with a Kenwood negative ground cassette player, carefully insulated from the chassis. Every now and then you would sometimes drag your keys between the two. Oh yeah good times..

[Rivetboy]

This week has been buying parts and buying more parts. Swapped out the trans and shipped the core back. Built some new legs for my old solvent tank and have been cleaning all the parts and laying things out. Using the old coffee cup full of diesel on the engine with a brush and the spraying it off with a HF siphon sprayer with some roof and siding cleaner. Works great especially when you elevate the jug so it does not have to pull the liquid up as far.
After the parts are all here will build the motor. Then clean up the wiring (read replace) spray a little BBQ black and Voila, that 1100 lb. 5.9 will roll itself back in. The sink has been great it is a camping kitchen with a couple of 5 gallon jugs and a electric pump.
Will lay out everything on tables for the build Wife just does not know that they are Her tables.
Pictures coming!