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Is your emergency release lever engaged or disengaged?
If your lever is vertical, use your switch to close the door, make sure the doors are also in the closed position, and pull the lever so it is horizontal. You might have to wiggle the doors or flick the door open switch to line up the pin. If that works, easy peasy.
The red lever should be horizontal (engaged), and the door should not be able to open and shut by pushing them. If your lever is in the horizontal position and you can open and shut your doors just by pushing on them, the pin is either not engaged or has missed the receiver. It might be something worse, but see below for basic alignment procedures.
If you suspect the receiver is not lining up correctly with the emergency release lever, get a flashlight and open the access panel above the doors. On the left (at least on my bus) there's a shaft, and on the end of the shaft is where the release lever pin inserts. Keep your fingers clear and observe while someone flicks the door open or shut switch.
If the shaft is flopping around, it is likely that the little flange at the end of the shaft that sits in a track on the door frame has slipped out. This happens if the emergency release lever is disengaged and the door open/close switch is run a few times.
You'll need to get a Philips screwdriver and remove the cowling that covers the whole door motor assembly so you can see the thing in operation and do the next steps.
What might have failed: if the door was operated without the emergency release lever pin engaged in the shaft end, the flange plate on the bottom of the end of the shaft may have slipped from its track and rotated, throwing the door adjustment out of whack in the process. That shaft needs to be a certain length, and the motor can basically change the length of the shaft by running forwards or backwards and rotating the screw within it. If this is the case you may need to rotate the shaft to shorten it or lengthen it so it once again aligns with the emergency release lever pin.
This is tricky to fix, but trickier to describe. I'm doing this from memory, so your results may vary.
If you have someone helping you be sure to keep your hands away from the mechanisms whenever you operate the door switch or run the motor.
These are powerful mechanisms and unforgiving if your hand or finger is in the wrong place.
Here's the procedure:
1. Flick the switch to open the door. The motor will run until the mechanism extends until 'full open'. At this point a limit switch turns off the motor, even if you hold the switch. Now flick the door switch in the other direction, to close, very briefly. This will run shorten the shaft a bit and give you wiggle room to align the shaft on the track)
2. Now, rotate the shaft to shorten it so the flange is just about touching the track. Rotating in one direction will lengthen the shaft, and rotating in the other direction shortens it. The goal is to correct the shaft length so the plate on the bottom of the shaft is just about aligned with the edge of the track. If you're successful first try you can slip the flange back in the track by pushing out on the door, which will pulls the whole motor and shaft assembly to the right.
3. Engage the emergency release lever by pulling it towards you so the pin goes up and inserts in the receiving hole in the shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft length is correct, and the door will now open and close properly with the switch. If you're only partially successful, the door may open and close but not all the way. You will need to redo step #2 again to either lengthen or shorten the shaft more.
If that works, the lesson learned is 'don't operate the door with the emergency release lever disengaged.'
And if the above doesn't fix it, let us know.
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