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Old 03-20-2019, 04:13 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: home, washington
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Coachwork: blue bird
Chassis: handy
Engine: e450 6.0
abs light and turn signals...weird.

ok, they might not be connected, but...

often after my 2004 e-450 shortie is driven and then restarted when warm, the abs light won't go off...the hubs don't get hot after driving with the light on, but concerning.

the weird thing is that when this happens, my turn signals stop working...emergency flashers still work when the turn signals don't...when the abs light is off, turn signals work fine.

someone smarter than me (most of you) have any thoughts about the abs light failing to go out and/or if there's any connection to the turn signals?

help very welcome.

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Old 03-20-2019, 08:08 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
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Sounds like a bad ground connection to me.
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Old 03-20-2019, 10:47 PM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
I poked around a bit on Chilton's online repair manuals, but the info is slim pickin's (it is free with my library card, so...)
Looks like you have a dash-display-microprocessor. That may be the problem. Maybe there is a body computer, and that may be going wonky. But there was no actual useful info on either (a) the turn signal wiring diagram or (b) the ABS wiring diagram, at least that I saw.
Bad ground...I don't see how, unless it is skrewing with the voltage in one of the two computers mentioned above.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:22 AM   #4
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Year: 2004
Coachwork: Corbeil
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Ford PowerStroke Diesel 6.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stone21 View Post
ok, they might not be connected, but...

often after my 2004 e-450 shortie is driven and then restarted when warm, the abs light won't go off...the hubs don't get hot after driving with the light on, but concerning.

the weird thing is that when this happens, my turn signals stop working...emergency flashers still work when the turn signals don't...when the abs light is off, turn signals work fine.

someone smarter than me (most of you) have any thoughts about the abs light failing to go out and/or if there's any connection to the turn signals?

help very welcome.
I recently acquired the full Wiring Diagram for a 2004 E350 Superduty and the 2004 E-Series Shop Manual. I'm sure there are some small differences between our buses, but these should still be pretty useful. Hope they help!
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:34 PM   #5
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
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Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E 7.3L
I have a hard time believing these issues are related and maybe coincidence? As far as I know, the ABS system has nothing in common with any other system except maybe through the body control module?

Turn signal switches (multi-function switch) is a common fail item on the E-Series chassis.
ABS issues are either a wheel speed sensor or corroded tone rings built into in the front rotors. Any way to get a scan on that bus and post the codes here?
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:19 PM   #6
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Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
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Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet View Post
I have a hard time believing these issues are related and maybe coincidence? As far as I know, the ABS system has nothing in common with any other system except maybe through the body control module?

Turn signal switches (multi-function switch) is a common fail item on the E-Series chassis.
ABS issues are either a wheel speed sensor or corroded tone rings built into in the front rotors.

That was what I was thinking, but the diagrams I saw were incomplete to tell.


Get those codes pulled like Johnny said.
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:37 AM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
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A bad ground will cause seemingly unrelated circuits to affect each other. This happens because the activation of power in one circuit through switch closure or other control sends power down another circuit that shares a common ground connection rather than back to the bus chassis. If you can find the point where many of your ground wires come together at a single location, take that connection apart and clean the metal contact points, apply some anti-oxidation grease, and reassemble the connection. I also like to use star washers to provide more "bite" in such connections.
You could spend time monitoring voltage across the connection (chassis ground to wire) while circuits are energized but that takes time. Its faster/easier just to clean and tighten the ground connection(s). The bad ground may not be located at the dash area. As an example, many weird problems between something like rear brake lights and turn signals has been caused by a bad ground near the lamp assemblies themselves.
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