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Old 06-06-2016, 08:06 PM   #31
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If you'll be camping in cold temps your batteries will give you more power if they are warm inside the bus.
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:10 PM   #32
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I'll only be stopping for a couple hours at a time max.. ill be able to get some engine heat if I turn the bus off and run the booster pump with just the rear heater fan... otherwise for heat I'll run the bus or maybe install a webasto coolant line heater so I dont have to run the bus...

main thing will be running my electric A/C when the bus is shut down and thats in warm temps.. the cases ive been seeing dont seem to have a concentrated vent.. I need to look harder and see if I can find a truly sealed case that has just a single vent that I could run out of the bus if I want them inside...

if im drawing a decent load from them in cold weather I should be able to keep them warm also..
-Christopher
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:27 AM   #33
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1. my batteries are House batteries, not starting batteries so building a box fits under the bus doesnt mean the skirting has to be cut and a fancy door installed.. a battery box with vents can be bought.. and then easily hung and tucked up under a Bus.. so theres no access.. you typically dont have to touch the house batteries.. install AGM VRLA so never have to water them..
I thought about suggesting this, didn't know if you would go for it. You wouldn't really need a box, just a frame to hold them, venting would take care of itself.

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hardware can be stainless steel and / or treated with grease / jelly
Stainless isn't as strong as steel, use antisieze on them

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run the wires from the box to a terminal block inside the bus.
Use something like this to avoid any problems with air/critters

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74144?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw4dm6BRCQhtzl6Z6N4i 0SJADFPu1nDRhecA3zDjuXEGooQieTncU2Rei3zS_Wkj1gOw8B bxoChxXw_wcB


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it could be years between times that box has to be lowered if good quality AGM VRLA batteries are used
I would think that you would at least need to clean the terminals once a year. The VLRA don't corrode like regular batteries because there is basically no vapors coming from them, but the terminals are lead and need an occasional cleaning.
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is this viable? or do batteries have to be touched more often than he thinks they do?
yes and yes

Dick
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:43 AM   #34
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Good idea on those thru-wall connectors.. I had forgotten about those!..

I was thinking the batteries would need to be in some type of box just to keep the salt and road water from splashing up on them... some of that junk has to be somewhat conductive / corrosive...

my bus is Driven more than it is parked when i have it out...

im waiting for a friend that works in a car audio shop to look at their battery boxes.. he thinks he has a couple styles that have a concentrated 1 inch vent which are otherwise sealed.. so I could vent from inside the bus if I chose... does mean a hole in the wall but if the box is truly sealed i wont lose my heat / cold ...

then again I could just add more heaters / Air conditioners


-Christopher
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:55 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
im just trying not to drill holes in the side of my bus that will let in and out the hot and esp cold air..
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
does mean a hole in the wall but if the box is truly sealed i wont lose my heat / cold ...

then again I could just add more heaters / Air conditioners
I'm kind of chuckling to myself and hoping it's okay to tease a little bit.. we're getting all this concern about battery box air leaks from the guy who wants to leave the side emergency exit door wide open and work at a desk just inside it with the A/C running, and has enough A/C capacity to run a mobile freeze dry service. (I guess the air leaks would present a problem when commissioning the vacuum part of the freeze dry operation!)

I do have something helpful to add, too. Batteries in a rack under the body might be relatively well-protected with just side shrouds clipped on after the batteries are loaded into their rack. There often isn't a great deal of protection provided to batteries living in the engine compartment after all. Yes there could accumulate "stuff" on the battery surface and provide a leakage path between the battery terminals, but I'd think that would really become noticeable only if the vehicle sat unused in storage with no charge source for a time. With regular use the leakage will probably be small compared to the demands of actual use.
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Old 06-07-2016, 05:02 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
I'm kind of chuckling to myself and hoping it's okay to tease a little bit.. we're getting all this concern about battery box air leaks from the guy who wants to leave the side emergency exit door wide open and work at a desk just inside it with the A/C running, and has enough A/C capacity to run a mobile freeze dry service. (I guess the air leaks would present a problem when commissioning the vacuum part of the freeze dry operation!)

I do have something helpful to add, too. Batteries in a rack under the body might be relatively well-protected with just side shrouds clipped on after the batteries are loaded into their rack. There often isn't a great deal of protection provided to batteries living in the engine compartment after all. Yes there could accumulate "stuff" on the battery surface and provide a leakage path between the battery terminals, but I'd think that would really become noticeable only if the vehicle sat unused in storage with no charge source for a time. With regular use the leakage will probably be small compared to the demands of actual use.
Way more than I was going to suggest.
I was going to say build a battery compartment underside with an un-sealed access door and the venting will take care of its self.
My starting batteries are on a crude slide out but it works when needed.
My house batteries will be underside in a storage compartment and if I think I need more ventilation then I will drill holes in the entering air side add some copper screen and drill some holes in the leaving air side and cover with some screen.
You can over engineer anything and spend a lot of money and time creating what you want or you/we can use the older tried and true methods?
You don't want any battery good or bad off gassing in your breathable space?
Put them underneath and let natural ventilation help even if you want to add a louvre's to your design.
Batteries in use create heat even in cold weather.
Batteries setting dormant in cold weather do seem to lose charge faster but not if they are used daily.
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:09 PM   #37
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I think underneath is what im leaning towards.. just trying to not have to cut my skirting.. I dont have the tools or skills to fab up a slide and a door.. thats why i was leaning towards something i could raise and lower only as needed.. its easy to bolt something together and then bolt through floor for support... not as easy to cut out the skirt, make a door, and a frame and slide..

I looked at the original slide.. the one that houses the starting batteries and that is pretty crude.. but still has a tray and skirt access.. doesnt look like much water gets in.. but a little does get in and doesnt seem to hurt anything..

I know im all over the place on this.. just limited on what I can do unless I want to go buy very expensive tools i'll only use once ..to weld, cut and bend sheet metal properly, etc.. since im not doing a full conversion, such tools wont be useful to me for the whole project like if I was skinning a bus or doing a riase or such..

-Christopher
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:29 PM   #38
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:41 PM   #39
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Alright, so I'm looking to go the AGM route for my solar power setup... and I've seen several skoolers that put their battery bank inside the cabin. I would like to do the same. How much (or little) do the AGM batteries need to be sealed/ventilated? Just some piping and a vent? ...or a fan too? Just a lidded box?
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:21 PM   #40
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http://www.battcon.com/papersfinal20...008proof_6.pdf
about battery off gasing
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