Bus wouldn’t start, bypassed ignition now won’t go faster than about 10mph?

[Joee]

Today we disconnected the batteries and reconnected them.

Took out the push button ignition bypass that the mechanic put in/ reconnected the wire he bypassed.
There is no crank without the button.

Tried to follow the wire that was bypassed and found a lot of oil in the area where 2 connections were made. I’m hoping this was the problem but I won’t crank it until morning. I cleaned up the area and left the connections open.

There is one 10amp slot that will blow even with a 30amp fuse. I can’t tell what it is and can’t follow the wire.

I tried to check as many wires/ connections that we’re going to/ coming from the starter and only found the problem with oil.

Is there anything else I should check? There’s so many wires and I have a hard time reading wiring diagrams.


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[cadillackid]

OK.. the computer wont let the engine crank unless power is provided to all circuits.. that button bypassed some of that and likely is where the codes came from..

that 10 amp fuse.. isnt that the one at the bottom that I mentioned is wipers? (at least on mine it is)..

connectiors in oil can be a problem esp if theres any metal fragments in the oil... I wish i could remember the thread where I posted some wiring diagrams for someone with a similar issue...
i think i saved the files on my other computer.. there is a power relay and a starter enable relay that must be powered to allow the engine to crank.. basically the computers.. (you have 3) all must be online. I know of at least one the Vehicle personality Module that to me is suspect of not having power - because its not communicating with your main ECM.. code 622
-Christopher

[BlackJohn]

Why not see what works as far as lighting, wipers in the dark to find that 10amp fuse. Most likely in the wipers and or lighting systems so check everything ?

Either you don't read very well or are frustrated but answer the questions I already asked you in previous posts.

John

[Joee]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Why not see what works as far as lighting, wipers in the dark to find that 10amp fuse. Most likely in the wipers and or lighting systems so check everything ?

Either you don't read very well or are frustrated but answer the questions I already asked you in previous posts.

John

This has been overwhelming, I don’t understand a lot of stuff so I’m researching in between troubleshooting and reading everyone’s responses.

So the switch was replaced and the connector gone, the wires are now connected directly to the switch. I’ll have some pictures.

I tried all electronics from the dash. The headlights don’t work anymore. Maybe that’s the 10amp short.

I found 2 really dirty and wet connectors coming out of the bundle of wires that contains the bypassed wire.
(The bypass button is gone and back to original wiring to ignition)
One of them was green on both sides and both had dirt or grease fall out when I opened them. Maybe I’ll replace the green one.

Also, this box next to the pedals is making a click when I try to crank. The click actually sounds like a magnet engaging and pulling a switch to it. It’s the larger of the 2.


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[BlackJohn]

Ok Joee, understand your frustration well but if I am spending my time trying to understand your issues and get no feedback I am done helping.
A few issues I see in the new pics,

The new switch does not seem to have the same wire config as the old now that it was replaced. At least 2 wires missing red and yellow on the right side unless pics aren't showing them. Sure don't like those connections.
Those yellow connections look more like those used in a straight splice, not for a push on type which is required. Those new ones are barely on with so much of the switch connections showing. Push them on hard or replace with those similar in the old switch, blue sta-kons. Use a proper crimping tool for best results but squeeze them up as hard as you can.
If that turns out to work, buy some more and some shrink wrap that will fit over the whole connection and redo them but not until we see if you get started.

Yes, the headlights might very well be blowing that one fuse so better inspect and see what you find. Just unplug the wiring at each light and show pics if possible. When unplugged, try a new fuse at 10amps in the slot. The slot looks corroded to me, a no-no. Things need clean metal to metal contact. kapish?

Next that oily connector is done. No sense to clean it. Time for a splice, one to one if the wires are colour- coded or marked otherwise. You should trace them in any case then that will make more sense to all of us if you know what and where they go. So 4 wires, 2 in , 2 out looks easy fix. Then test. Just wondering if they are the two I see missing from your new switch connections, could be.
Ok, the black relay, the bigger one shown. Put your hand on it and turn the key to start. Can you feel it when you do this? Should feel a click when it is energized by you turning the key to start. You still have to do the wait time before startup for this to happen I believe. If that clicks and you feel it, then trace back to the starter solenoid and check for power on it. You'll need a hand for that. Same place the bypass pushbutton went to. So in all liekly hood if that is the starter relay that you felt click, it might be corroded too or worn out internally thus not sending power to the start solenoid, which is working.

Stay cool and keep with it, lots to learn for you and others. Better pics of the ign switch from top down would help because I am only guessing if it is right or otherwise.
Lengthy yes, sorry but one step at a time.

John

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

The new picture of your switch is missing some wires. And even if the switches are the same your 12 guage wire is crimped into the wrong connector where your missing wire should be.
The more I look at your original ignition switch photo trying to match A to B you are missing more than one wire.
Use your original pic to re-wire the new switch before you worry about the headlights and relay switch buzzing.
Did your head lights work before you replaced the switch or were they questionable?
It's my opinion but I do think your switch is wired incorrectly?

[Joee]

Thanks for your patience everyone. The switch had a red and yellow wire with blue connectors on the wrong side. I must have gotten turned around from working on my back to sitting up.
With the red bat wire in front it’s 2 then 1 pink wires on right, 1 pink in middle, 1 then 1 blue on left. That should be the original setup minus 1 red 12g that was the bypass. I also marked them to make sure they’re in the correct positions.
The yellow connectors aren’t my first choice but it’s what I had and hooking it up at that moment was deciding whether or not we get a campsite. I will make them nicer when this is over.
I cut out the connecter with 2 wires and straight spliced them.
I followed both dirty connecters back to the battery, they are connected each to their own terminal with an unbroken in line fuse. They go the other way into a covered bundle of wires that contain the originally cut and bypassed wire. That bundle does go to the starter, the computers and in the dash.
I can feel the big relay click when I turn the key.
It started raining so I’ll check the starter and headlights when it stops.

The headlights stopped working sometime after this problem, I haven’t had to turn them on since before then when they worked.


Thanks again for taking the time to help us with this.


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[Joee]

We made some progress on this with some help from a skoolie owner we follow on Instagram. The fuse that kept blowing turned out to be the brakes. We unplugged the brake light wires from the brakes and the bus started up and drove like normal. So I guess now we’re looking for a grounded wire to be able to drive the bus with working brake lights. Thanks for all your input, and time!!


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[BlackJohn]

Great news Joee to hear you guys got it running and driving good again.
Whatever made you look at the brakes for a solution? Asking this because you would think a mechanic working on the engine might want the bus to start during his work. I can see the safety aspect though too if the bus had no brakes at all in not starting, but a wiring short is hard to imagine getting a no start. Could be a bad socket from corrosion, bad bulb, bad switch, no ground etc, but have never seen or heard of that being in series with a start circuit. Learn something new everyday here. Hydraulic brakes are they?
Anyway, now for the headlights and put the ign switch together again properly and you roll again!
Enjoy your camping/learning curve.

John

[Joee]

Hey just wanted to give another quick update, because it was just dumb luck that the bus started and shifted correctly. The real problem was a grounded wire at the transmission. That’s what the 10amp fuse was. We got all that fixed up and on to some new problems. Learning so much these last weeks!


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[Tango]

Excellent! And a cheap fix too. Seems like grounding is one of the most common issues with anything over 2 years old.

Good place to start any investigation is with "the usual suspects" as Captain Louis Renault might say.

[!eslie.brewer.me]

Where do I get these books?

[!eslie.brewer.me]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

the tow driver caged the brakes.. he inserted the cage bolts into the rear cylinders.. those cage bolts usually reside with the vehicle.. unless he had some with him that fit your bus..

your rear brakes are engaged when the air pressure is low... and released with high pressure.. so he had to manually operate the big springs that air normally operates..

the WARN light... thats your check-engine light... there should be a round gray connector under your dashboard... thats your diagnostic connector.. next to that connector should be a black diagnostic button.. you can read the computer error codes from the dashboard..

turn your key to ON but dont start the bus... then press that black button and watch your dash light..

the WARN light or the 'Oil / water' alarm will flash out you the error codes.. it is a pattern with spaces...

flash-flash-off-flash-flash-flash-off-flash--Long off--- would be code 2-2-1.

if you can get the flash codes we can look them up in the books..

-Christopher

Where can I get these books?