Dang the Buzzer Alarm won't go off....

[birdbus]

Hi All,

I have a 1998 26' bluebird bus. The Buzzer alarm in the control panel by the drivers side window is buzzing, and I don't know why.

If the key is on or the engine running, the alarm is going. Its very annoying. I checked all the doors, the roof hatches, everything I could think of - everything is securely closed.

I eventually disabled the alarm by disconnecting the wire, but I am worried that it is trying to tell me something important, and I don't want to ignore the actual cause of the buzzing. Any ideas?

(FYI - This buzzer has always been a little mysterious to me, for example in the past it has taken me a long time to figure out that the emergency hatch wasn't closed all the way. )

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Hailey

[ApeWriter]

With ours, it usually works to walk back and open and close the back door latch. I think they designed it that way so that the bus driver would always have to walk to the back of the bus and check for any remaining children before leaving the bus.
If the the latch thing doesn't shut it off, try turning the key a little to the left and right. Sometimes it gets stuck in the halfway on position.
You're right that it's all a little mysterious. I think we'll disable ours, too, as soon as we get the chance.

[Robin97396]

You can look for videos on you tube for information on how to disable your interlock system. Normally if the buzzer is going off you can't start the bus. The interlock disables the starter.

The rear doors can not be locked while starting the bus, much the same as the hatch must be latched. It's a safety system built for misschevious kids.

[birdbus]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

You can look for videos on you tube for information on how to disable your interlock system. Normally if the buzzer is going off you can't start the bus. The interlock disables the starter.

The rear doors can not be locked while starting the bus, much the same as the hatch must be latched. It's a safety system built for misschevious kids.

I keep hearing about this interlock system, and am not really sure that I have one, as none of the doors in my bus have locks. Also, I've always been able to start the bus while the buzzer is going. Perhaps a previous owner already disabled the interlock system?

All of the door latches are very strait forward levers on the inside.
When moved, they move the latches on the outside when moved and vise-versa.

The only locks I have are bolts that can be put into holes that have been drilled in the levers and allow them to be bolted to the door handle so they can't be moved.

I will watch the videos you suggested and see what I can learn.

Thank you!

[birdbus]

Originally Posted by ApeWriter

With ours, it usually works to walk back and open and close the back door latch. I think they designed it that way so that the bus driver would always have to walk to the back of the bus and check for any remaining children before leaving the bus.
If the the latch thing doesn't shut it off, try turning the key a little to the left and right. Sometimes it gets stuck in the halfway on position.
You're right that it's all a little mysterious. I think we'll disable ours, too, as soon as we get the chance.

Thanks, I will try this! I'm not sure how my bus would know if I open it from the inside or the outside, but its definitely worth a shot!

[Robin97396]

My bus knows!

[milkmania]

Only buzzer that goes off on mine is the low air pressure buzzer...
In case that helps

[Robin97396]

milkmania, I'd say your bus may not have had an interlock because it wasn't built to be a school bus.

As for the rest of us, myself included, our interlocks still work at varying levels. I've never seen two of them disabled the same way because it seems buses vary quite a bit. I like the reminder for the door latches, but not disabling the starter. If my back door is latched I can't start the engine. If either rear or lift doors are open I can't start the engine. Yeah, I probably shouldn't drive with the rear or lift doors open, but you never know.

[Robin97396]

And yes, I get it that your buzzer goes off unless you disable it. The real issue, of not being able to start your engine doesn't apply. Buzzer disabled, I can't say if there's a problem from that specifically. I've done the same disconnect with buzzers in the past, and nothing notable happened.
Your bus does start and you've disconnected the buzzer itself. I mean, you got the noise to stop and your bus still runs. That's a win. I think you've solved your own question.
If you're asking if disabling your buzzer will start a fire and burn down your bus, you'd have to ask an electrician.

[Nappykaukau]

Hello I found this


EMERGENCY DOOR
The emergency door vandal lock
has a lock cylinder which is placed
in the lock to make the emergency
door inoperable. When the cylinder
is in place in the lock, the coach cannot be started. To complete the ignition circuit, the lock cylinder must
be removed from the lock and
placed in the receptacle at the side
of the door. When this is done, the
circuit is completed and the coach
can then be started.
No lubrication is required with
this system.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by Nappykaukau

Hello I found this


EMERGENCY DOOR
The emergency door vandal lock
has a lock cylinder which is placed
in the lock to make the emergency
door inoperable. When the cylinder
is in place in the lock, the coach cannot be started. To complete the ignition circuit, the lock cylinder must
be removed from the lock and
placed in the receptacle at the side
of the door. When this is done, the
circuit is completed and the coach
can then be started.
No lubrication is required with
this system.

Sounds like a simple contact circuit. without power on, check continuity on the wires at the switch. determine if Normally open or normally closed with the cylinder out of the lock housing.
Once you got it figured out remove lock and bypass / rewire for normally open or normally closed.

[Reiter]

i have 4 wires on the back door bus crank but wont fire up ,i removed the locking buzzer box and lost it on the process the bus was working fine next day didnt start any idea what should i do with the wires?
White -130 Orange-122 red-401 pink-2601

Originally Posted by Nappykaukau

Hello I found this


EMERGENCY DOOR
The emergency door vandal lock
has a lock cylinder which is placed
in the lock to make the emergency
door inoperable. When the cylinder
is in place in the lock, the coach cannot be started. To complete the ignition circuit, the lock cylinder must
be removed from the lock and
placed in the receptacle at the side
of the door. When this is done, the
circuit is completed and the coach
can then be started.
No lubrication is required with
this system.

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Reiter

i have 4 wires on the back door bus crank but wont fire up ,i removed the locking buzzer box and lost it on the process the bus was working fine next day didnt start any idea what should i do with the wires?
White -130 Orange-122 red-401 pink-2601

If your bus is cranking but not firing up, it's not the interlock that is the problem. The interlock will prevent it from even cranking.

[Reiter]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

If your bus is cranking but not firing up, it's not the interlock that is the problem. The interlock will prevent it from even cranking.

So just for the next unlucky newbies like us
Yes I cut the wires from lift door and back emergency exit but stop working next day
Crank but didn’t fire up
Week later finally figure out how to by pass the the interlock safety issue on bluebird 2009
Will post a video May help people in the future of my one week frustration all end with one wire connection

[BubbleTeaRV]

Hi,

I'm replacing my hatch (due to damage). I'm adding a marine hatch and will try to disarm my alarm today. I've tried to find a professional that does headliners, alarms etc. anything short of the expensive fleet company. I have a 2000 GMC Savanna 2500 Microbird 14 passenger with a diesel engine. Any advice on the safest watch to disarm the hatch temporarily and/or permanently.

II. I'm using elf tapping screws, dicor, butyl andn eternal bond to install the marine hatch. I was going to try to install keeping the hatch hull/shell/plastic fram. Any advice on marine hatch install. I have watched videos but everyone that i've seen took out the previous hatch hull. Then some had to build a frame due to the new hatch not fitting flush.

Thanks in advance and happy travels!

[TheHubbardBus]

@BubbleTeaRV,

It's just a switch incorporated in the hatch... either normally open (NO), or normally closed (NC). If it's NO, opening the hatch will close the switch, which completes the circuit that activates the alarm. If it's NC, opening the hatch will open the switch, interrupting the circuit which then triggers the alarm. You can figure out which by either visually examining the switch mechanism, and/or removing the wires from the switch and manually testing them (if you touch + & - together and the alarm goes off, it's a NO switch. If the alarm goes off until you touch them together, it's a NC switch. The 'fix' is just like the test. If it's an NO switch, insulate both ends of the wire going to the hatch so they can't touch each other or ground against any nearby metal. If it's an NC switch, connect the + & - together permanently and insulate to prevent grounding.

FYI I'm sure someone can come on and tell you exactly what type of switch you have, but the info above is valuable for more than just this particular item.

One more thing... if there's only one wire, that's a hot wire, and the switch is completing the circuit to ground at its mounting point. In that case, nothing changes from the advice above, except the - wire is now any point on the frame (if that makes sense).

[dbsoundman]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

@BubbleTeaRV,

It's just a switch incorporated in the hatch... either normally open (NO), or normally closed (NC). If it's NO, opening the hatch will close the switch, which completes the circuit that activates the alarm. If it's NC, opening the hatch will open the switch, interrupting the circuit which then triggers the alarm. You can figure out which by either visually examining the switch mechanism, and/or removing the wires from the switch and manually testing them (if you touch + & - together and the alarm goes off, it's a NO switch. If the alarm goes off until you touch them together, it's a NC switch. The 'fix' is just like the test. If it's an NO switch, insulate both ends of the wire going to the hatch so they can't touch each other or ground against any nearby metal. If it's an NC switch, connect the + & - together permanently and insulate to prevent grounding.

FYI I'm sure someone can come on and tell you exactly what type of switch you have, but the info above is valuable for more than just this particular item.

One more thing... if there's only one wire, that's a hot wire, and the switch is completing the circuit to ground at its mounting point. In that case, nothing changes from the advice above, except the - wire is now any point on the frame (if that makes sense).

This is exactly right. Just cut the wire(s) off the switch and see if the buzzer turns off, if it does then just cap the wire. If not, try grounding it.