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Old 08-22-2019, 11:05 AM   #41
Bus Geek
 
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Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
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Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
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Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
I also ripped out all the wiring for the emergency doors and hatches, just threw it in the scrap pile. But my bus is a 1995 model and has no computer chips, so it starts just fine. Now you know you can't get away with doing something like this on a bus with computer chips.

So I think what you need now is either a wiring genius who has some familiarity with your type of bus, or a wiring diagram.

And, hopefully to prevent this from happening to someone else, it would have been best to try starting the bus after cutting the wire, but before removing it. I'm still doing that as a precaution every time I mess with the wiring even though the bus has always started every time so far.
Let the bus run while cutting wires. That way you don't have to run back to the key to see if it effected anything, you'll know immediately.

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Old 08-22-2019, 11:20 AM   #42
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
@01marc, I think that would work just fine on a bus with computer chips, but as I understand it older, non-electronic diesels such as mine do not need a battery connection to run, just to start. If I've got this wrong can someone step in here, please?
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:26 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
@01marc, I think that would work just fine on a bus with computer chips, but as I understand it older, non-electronic diesels such as mine do not need a battery connection to run, just to start. If I've got this wrong can someone step in here, please?
Not sure about that, it will show the important connections that effect running also.
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:42 AM   #44
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Location: Western Oregon
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
I'm not sure either. That's why I am hoping that someone with more expertise than either of us will sign on to this discussion. But I do know that with older diesels, the only way to turn them off was to stop the fuel flow. Once started, they would run indefinitely until the fuel flow stopped.
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:43 AM   #45
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Year: 1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
@01marc, I think that would work just fine on a bus with computer chips, but as I understand it older, non-electronic diesels such as mine do not need a battery connection to run, just to start. If I've got this wrong can someone step in here, please?



Those type engines with an electric fuel solenoid need power to shut off the fuel supply, otherwise they'd run for as long as the fuel held out.
Some may have mechanical shutoff apparatus to accomplish shutdown.


So cutting wires blindly individually or numerous is totally sheer stupidity.
Learn what they are or don't be cutting.

For someone to even think where to start a repair like that is beyond me,
Might be cheaper to sell the bus than fix a mess electrically.


John
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Old 08-22-2019, 12:24 PM   #46
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
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Year: 1995
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Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
Thanks John, you've brought back the memory of exactly what the guy I bought my bus from said about not needing electric current to run. He said it didn't need any electric source to run, just to start and to shut down.

He also said that meant if the battery was disconnected while it was running, it would just keep running until all the fuel in the tank was gone.


And I should also put in here that I learned my lesson about paying due care and attention when disconnecting things the first time I did any disconnecting on my bus. There was a fat bundle of wires running the length of the bus on the driver's side. I just basically assumed that all these wires were for lights, heaters, speakers and alarms in the passenger compartment, all things that I had either already removed or intended to remove. I did not think to look to see if any wires in the bundle ran on to the engine compartment before I disconnected all wires in that bundle from their respective connections in the electrical box and pulled them into the bus.

Gradually I worked my way to the back of the bus, pulling wires as I went. When I got to the back of the bus I discovered that one wire in that bundle continued on to the engine compartment. I tried to figure out exactly where I had unplugged it from, but no luck.

As it turned out, I got lucky on this. The one lone wire that continued into the engine compartment was for the engine compartment lights. These lights were pretty dim, and I had already decided to find something brighter to replace them with, so I got off very easy that time.

I learned a couple of lessons from this. The first is never assume anything when you're dealing with wiring. Always be certain of both the destination and source of any wire in the neighborhood of where you're working. The second, which I think is slightly less critical, is to disconnect the destination first and work toward the source, rather than pulling wires out of the electrical box the first thing. That way I'll know before I inadvertently disconnect something I need or want.
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Old 05-07-2022, 08:56 PM   #47
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https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/t...tml#post471650
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