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Old 08-07-2017, 06:09 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Disconnecting Emergency Exit Wiring

Hey Everyone!

Got my bus.

1995 TC2000 RE with a 12 valve 8.3L Cummins, and an MT643 Allison transmission.

I'm in the process of gutting. Got the floors/wall panels/ceilings removed.

Now I'm going through the wiring. I'm hoping to pull all the emergency window and door (plus rear hatch window and two roof hatch) wires. Is there any reason why this will be a problem?

I know the bus will have problems starting possibly if the alarm system is in place but I'm hoping it can be removed.

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks!
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:55 PM   #2
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I quick rid bit of advice, as you disconnect stuff, check to see if you can start. If it doesn't, you just narrowed it down to whatever you did last. Makes it easier than months worth of work, then trying to figure what you did during that time frame.

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Old 08-07-2017, 10:16 PM   #3
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I agree, check as you cut wires. I have '97 BB TCFE with 5.9 Cummins 12v 6BTA and had no issues cutting wires to roof hatch & emergency windows. The emergency door may have additional wiring since many buses have ignition interlock so door cannot be locked shut with the little slider bolt lock while its running.
Also if the bus is equipped with Child-Check system it could have even more wiring. this is where after shutting off bus the driver has to check for sleeping /hiding kids and push a button or open emergency door/ window in rear of bus or alarm will sound or horn will honk like car alarm.
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:22 PM   #4
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If the emergency door/hatch switches have 2 wires its safe to remove them. If there are 4 there's an interlock.
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:27 PM   #5
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If the emergency door/hatch switches have 2 wires its safe to remove them. If there are 4 there's an interlock.
I haven't seen one with 4. What do you do if there are 4 ECCB?

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Old 08-07-2017, 10:30 PM   #6
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I haven't seen one with 4. What do you do if there are 4 ECCB?

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IDK, I'd ask someone smarter than I am about how to get around the interlock. But I'd not even want a bus that new to begin with.
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Old 08-08-2017, 09:13 PM   #7
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Mine only had 1 wire and grounded to frame to make alarm sound. best bet is to check for voltage in the number of wires you have, and simply connect or disconnect them to replicate the normal closed emergency door/hatch/window.
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Old 08-11-2017, 05:15 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies. I needed to charge my batteries so I could start the bus

Here's the wiring I'm confused about. The two emergency doors have this 3 part awesomeness. I have to duct tape the part that used to get depressed by the door latch to start the bus. There is also a larger looking unit that was mounted to the rear of the bus that was for the rear emergency hatch. Duct taped that and the bus starts.

Does anyone know how I can complete the circuit in the wiring panel and then remove these wires/parts?




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Old 08-12-2017, 04:01 PM   #9
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Non fail safe bus wiring (mine anyway)

My bus was not wired fail safe. Meaning that a condition that wouldn't allow a start created a 12v signal from the yellow box in my bus to the ECM (I'm assuming didn't trace). So if yours is set up similarly you should be able to find the wire labeled interlock on your yellow bus control wire box and remove it. After that all interlocks will be "bypassed". Please follow the advice of previous posters and check often to make sure something disconnected doesn't effect your bus. This is only the way my 99 BB is set up, results may vary
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:46 PM   #10
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is just two relays there and one switch. my guess is that switch is NC normally closed for operation. so that rewiring simple
I would make a schematic diagram on paper, then I could tell the sequence of the relay operation for the door switch.
most all that stuff can be ash canned.
On my thomas, there was a wiring diagram for the entire bus on the access panel so all this stuff was quite easy to remove on mine
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by brightond View Post


Thanks for all the replies. I needed to charge my batteries so I could start the bus

Here's the wiring I'm confused about. The two emergency doors have this 3 part awesomeness. I have to duct tape the part that used to get depressed by the door latch to start the bus. There is also a larger looking unit that was mounted to the rear of the bus that was for the rear emergency hatch. Duct taped that and the bus starts.

Does anyone know how I can complete the circuit in the wiring panel and then remove these wires/parts?






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Wow, it was that Pink thing in the middle of all those wires that I couldn't figure out..lol
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:55 PM   #12
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Wow, it was that Pink thing in the middle of all those wires that I couldn't figure out..lol
Yeah? Did you figure it out?
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Old 08-23-2017, 06:50 AM   #13
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I removed my emergency door buzzer interlock this wknd. its a '97 Bluebird tc fe and looks just like what you show in pic. i t had 3 wires and i unhooked them all and it starts just fine. the gold color metal unit is the buzzer, and the plastic is a relay so alarm would sound if door was locked while key is on, or if door is open. and prevent bus from starting if deadbolt slider lock is latched. i believe thee was pink, orange and "red with black stripe" wires.
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:37 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by LectricLance View Post
I removed my emergency door buzzer interlock this wknd. its a '97 Bluebird tc fe and looks just like what you show in pic. i t had 3 wires and i unhooked them all and it starts just fine. the gold color metal unit is the buzzer, and the plastic is a relay so alarm would sound if door was locked while key is on, or if door is open. and prevent bus from starting if deadbolt slider lock is latched. i believe thee was pink, orange and "red with black stripe" wires.


Excellent!


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Old 10-27-2017, 10:12 PM   #15
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Exclamation

Update on this topic. Hope someone can lend some suggestions!

I had my electrician buddy come over this week to help me figure out the interlock system on the bus.

We started by removing one wire at a time from each of the three doors. Each time we would test to see if the bus would start. Each time it did

We removed every single wire and the bus started right back up. The testing was quick. Disconnect, then start. Disconnect, then start. All was successful.

Until...the next morning. Now nothing starts. Turning the key yields nothing. No crank.

The only wires that went to the door were a pink, red/black, and orange wire. We tried hooking these back up to one of the door components but still get nothing.

Two of the wires are hot with 12v and one has no voltage. As soon as you turn the key the two "hot" wires go to 0.

I haven't been able to find a wiring schematic for this 95' Bluebird, 8.3 Cummings so if anyone has any insight into what we should try next that would be hugely appreciated!

Right now I'm at a loss

Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:41 PM   #16
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All that starting has drained your batteries capacity for starting power. Give them a good charge and try your experiment again.
I really do not know why people disconnect these features. They are for safety of you, the passengers and the bus.

John
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:26 AM   #17
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All that starting has drained your batteries capacity for starting power. Give them a good charge and try your experiment again.
I really do not know why people disconnect these features. They are for safety of you, the passengers and the bus.

John


Already checked batteries. They were charging while testing the other day. At full charge.




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Old 10-28-2017, 02:48 PM   #18
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Ok batteries are good enough so then check over the whole starting system from A-Z. Check for power and continuity in those things that create ignition.
No magic fix, check it right through.

John
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Old 10-28-2017, 05:05 PM   #19
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Ok batteries are good enough so then check over the whole starting system from A-Z. Check for power and continuity in those things that create ignition.
No magic fix, check it right through.

John
All I know about electricity I learned from BJ and CK.
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Old 10-28-2017, 06:39 PM   #20
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