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Old 09-14-2017, 12:39 AM   #1
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Dual Battery

I setup these batteries, but now one by one the internal lights went out, But the outside small lights that goes around the bus all are working, but one head light is out and the other is super bright, fans seems to be running super fast. I think I have added two much power directly to the BUS.

The problem I was having is the BUS came with a small car battery and while cleaning and listing to music the battery never lasted long. I bought this two battery off CL and it seem to have brighten everything up but while working tonight one my one each light went out and they done seem to be blown, I think I might start looking into rewiring the BUS??
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Old 09-14-2017, 12:54 AM   #2
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You have hooked up the batteries in 24 volts. You may already have burned out any electronics. most likely you have burned a bunch of bulbs. This is assuming the bus is 12 v and not 24.
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:23 AM   #3
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So they need to be connected this way? I'm changing all the Bulbs over to LED anyways, Is that all the damage I could have done??
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:59 AM   #4
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The funny thing is the tops lights listed below works with them connect incorrectly... This is very strange
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:19 AM   #5
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Disconnect them for the night until you can figure it out. Hate to see your bus burn.
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:25 AM   #6
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So I should not have listen to the guy who sold me them WOW, These are 12v Deep Cycle, CarQuest Marine DCG27.

Ok so there's three connections connect to the battery, Two positive and one negative, Is just for the engine??
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:40 AM   #7
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The marine batteries will be fine for long, moderate loads like listening to the radio and such. Using them to start the engine on a regular basis will greatly shorten their life.

And yes, your first pic shows a 24V setup, which will quickly blow light bulbs and electronics not designed for it. The later 12V setup is what you need.
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:45 AM   #8
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The first setup would have been fine if you had a pair 6V batteries, resulting in a 12V setup (not common these days but I have seen them).
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:54 AM   #9
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Why did the other lights work and now not??
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:01 AM   #10
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Because incandescent lights work at a *RATED* voltage. They are designed for a specific voltage. They will glow at a higher or lower voltage, with a corresponding increase or decrease in light. The higher voltage will shorten their life, while a lower voltage will increase their life. Given that (I am assuming) the bulbs already had lived a good portion of that life, the higher voltage was enough to end their life.

LED bulbs are a different matter, some will generate about the same amount of light within a fairly broad spectrum of voltage (and some are rated up to 24V). Others will vary in brightness based on the voltage, though perhaps to a lesser degree than incandescent bulbs.
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:45 PM   #11
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Found these 4 Exide 31XHD batteries on CL. Juts a few month old for $50ea. So now I would like to user those connect all these up to run all my light and ect. and use a bring new recommend battery to start my BUS?
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Old 09-14-2017, 04:51 PM   #12
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Engine Batteries, the same guys have two Napa 8D can these be used for the ENGINE ONLY?? Thomson International BUS 3800 ( DT360 Diesel )
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:14 PM   #13
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The 8D batteries are big and *HEAVY*. Most likely only one will even fit the exiting space. They're OK, but pricey and a chore to manhandle. More common is Size 31 batteries, typically wired in parallel in groups of 2-4. These are widely and commonly available and what I generally recommend for engine-starting batteries. They'll be fine for occasional music playing and low-level lighting but running them down will both leave you stranded as well as shorten their life.
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:24 PM   #14
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Your choice of wire to connect the two batteries is not very good. You need cable at least the size of the yellow ones I see in the pics. With high amperage batteries like these the weaker one will draw from the stronger one to equalize and you will have those smaller cables breaking down sooner than later.

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Old 09-14-2017, 05:30 PM   #15
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fortunately this is a DT360 so unless he tried to start the bus he probably didnt ruin the dashboard panel... there is no engine or transmission computer on this bus... the alternator may have suffered.
-Christopher
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:54 PM   #16
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Don't know the 360? But one 8d will start my 8.2 if it has a good charge? I have two 8d's for starting.
It bothers me to use starting batteries to power anything except starting a Diesel engine. My everything batt's will be completely seperate.
If my mobile home don't work then I know I can always start up and go home to fix it before the next outing or its this battery banks,wiring,inverter,converter problem but I can't start and move problem.
My thought process says to keep the anything you do seperate from from starting and going batteries regardless of a switch?
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Old 09-14-2017, 05:58 PM   #17
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I agree on separate systems... I have 2 31D Deep cycle AGM batteries on an isolator.. when the bus is running the alternator can charge all 4 batteries... if my voltage on the main bvatteries drops below 12.3 or I turn off the bus then the isolator automatically kicks out (I can force it in with a switch)... so even if my alternator blows uo it wont run all my batteries dead.. I can engage the second 2 batteries manually if I need them to assist starting..
-Christopher
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Your choice of wire to connect the two batteries is not very good. You need cable at least the size of the yellow ones I see in the pics. With high amperage batteries like these the weaker one will draw from the stronger one to equalize and you will have those smaller cables breaking down sooner than later.

John
Haven't been out to measure my battery wires but I want to toss in an isolation switch for any leakage current. My bus is factory two 8D batteries, 160A alt. I can't imagine the bus ever needing 2800 CCA but that's its potential. Any idea what size wire that would be? Looking at the AWG standard, it's somewhere between 2 gauge and 000 gauge based on amp load. They are bigger diameter than my thumb but I've no idea what size jacket is on them.

I looked them up on the wire diagram but only lights, switches, and little stuff are on the diagrams. Of course what I'm looking for isn't listed. Any ideas.
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