Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-16-2018, 12:58 AM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 587
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Electrical Diagram Review

Here is my electrical diagram. If anyone has a moment, would you please look at it and let me know your opinions, thoughts, ideas, or if I am missing anything. Thanks folks, I appreciate it!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Patches Electrical Skoolie.jpg (217.5 KB, 37 views)
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 01:02 AM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 587
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Updated with the inverter going to the negative bus bar.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Patches Electrical Skoolie updated 1.jpg (219.1 KB, 18 views)
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 01:08 AM   #3
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 587
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Update 2: Battery disconnect added between positive busbar and battery bank
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Patches Electrical Skoolie updated 2.jpg (221.7 KB, 41 views)
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 07:56 AM   #4
Bus Nut
 
JDOnTheGo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: The West
Posts: 863
Year: 1998
Coachwork: MCI
Chassis: 102 EL3
Engine: DD 60
Looks pretty good Nick!!

You have certainly NOT undersized the wire/cable. That is generally a good thing but maybe a little overkill in a few instances (like 10GA for 12VDC runs). Of course, it depends on how long the run is and how much power will be passing thru it.

I don't quite understand the solar array wiring. There is an extra set of "lines" there, I think. Are you planning two sets of panels in series and then those two sets in series?

I bet you have some design considerations to explain the 'extra' shore/generator input for the A/C unit. This is often accomplished thru a single shore power plug but I bet you know that.
__________________
JD - Full timer out west
Missy - 1998 MCI 102-EL3 - 1.7kW Solar - 10kWh Lithium
My Adventures & Build
JDOnTheGo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 09:46 AM   #5
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 587
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo View Post
Looks pretty good Nick!!

You have certainly NOT undersized the wire/cable. That is generally a good thing but maybe a little overkill in a few instances (like 10GA for 12VDC runs). Of course, it depends on how long the run is and how much power will be passing thru it.

I don't quite understand the solar array wiring. There is an extra set of "lines" there, I think. Are you planning two sets of panels in series and then those two sets in series?

I bet you have some design considerations to explain the 'extra' shore/generator input for the A/C unit. This is often accomplished thru a single shore power plug but I bet you know that.
The solar panels will be two pairs of panels in series and then in parallel. I think you are referring to the green wires on the solar panels? Those are grounds. I'm not sure if they are necessary but I'm just following instruction manuals from the panels. I'm not sure where the ground from the 80 amp breaker would go?

My thoughts for the independent input for the rooftop air conditioner: I will run a 20 amp male end off of the roof top unit. I will then have two separate 20 amp female plugs (one from the inverter/panel and one that runs to it's own 20 amp male end).

I want to be able to put the rooftop a/c independent of the inverter if needed really. The rooftop pulls 1725 watts and my inverter is only 3000 watts. I will have a mini-split a/c the is run only from the inverter.

A couple reasons:

1) If it's super hot out, I don't know if I can run the rooftop, mini-split, and everything else at the same time. I don't think I can. But I should be able to run the mini-split from the solar and the rooftop from the generator if needed.

2) I can plug the rooftop itself into shorepower if available and run the rest from solar or plug it into the other shore power outlet

(I'm typing this on mobile so it's hard to make sure this post makes sense as a reply...)
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 03:25 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 587
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
If I don't need to run ground lines from the panels, that would be nice... The panels have enough contact with the roof to be grounded I'm sure.

And thank you JD.
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 03:44 PM   #7
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty View Post
The panels have enough contact with the roof to be grounded I'm sure.

If you're going to go that route, I'd make sure to scuff all the paint/finish off of all of the contact surfaces. It only takes one thin non-conductive coating to effectively block your electrical connection and make the ground useless.
__________________
Professionally converting vehicles and making custom furniture with a combined 14 years of mechanical/electrical engineering experience.

https://www.thunderstruck-studios.com/
ThunderstruckStudios is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 07:03 PM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Ninjakitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 587
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderstruckStudios View Post
If you're going to go that route, I'd make sure to scuff all the paint/finish off of all of the contact surfaces. It only takes one thin non-conductive coating to effectively block your electrical connection and make the ground useless.
Okay, I'll leave the ground wires. Better safe than sorry.
__________________
Nick
Ninjakitty is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.