Electrical Draw Calculations

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Twigg

The 20% figure sounds like BS marketing speak, or simply written by someone who hasn't a clue.

That's the whole purpose of a deep cycle battery, to discharge slower and longer than typical batteries.
Every site I check says the same, they can be discharged to 20% without damage. Though they say discharge to only 50% will make it last longer, but that scenario, using less of the battery before recharge, is the same for any battery. But deep cycles can go much further than liquid or AGM.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by o1marc

That's the whole purpose of a deep cycle battery, to discharge slower and longer than typical batteries.

They don't discharge more slowly though. A 150 amphour battery will discharge at exactly the same rate for a given load, whatever it is made of and however constructed.

The difference is that a start battery is designed to deliver very high bursts of current for a very short time, whereas the deep-cycle battery is designed to deliver lower currents, but has the ability to be more deeply discharged and still recover.

However, they still should not be discharged to less than 50% state of charge. If you do that, you will damage them.

[o1marc]

Off topic, sort of, but when I worked at O'Reilly Auto Parts in 2015 a woman came in to buy a battery. We didn't have the correct replacement in stock after checking her old battery and determining it was in a state of "last 1/4, replace soon." I offered to buy her old battery at the core charge of $18. She wouldn't need a core where she did find a battery because she had already been paid the core charge by me. That battery went into my 97 Dodge Dakota and is still going strong today, 3 years later. It's a Motorcraft.

[PNWorBUST72]

I am going to sit back and read this whole thread again tomorr because I am starting to get overwhelmed but you guys have all been great in trying to help. I just thought I was closer to getting it then maybe I am...

Anyways...

Couple points on hardware I was looking at:

1. Stinger 500AMP isolator
2. 4stage smart charger GoPower 100AMP 4-Stage
3. transfer switch - Xantrex 8080915 PROwatt SW Auto Transfer Switch - Not sure if I need if I dont plan on a genny OR can I connect the genny to my Shore side connector and wait on this?
4. Inverter - Xantrex PROWatt 2000 Inverter - Not sure on these final numbers but this should over me for awhile.
5. Progressive 50AMP AC Distribution Panel - separate 12v fuse block
6. 4 Duracell 6v 215AH Deep Cycles - I was planning on going cheap first time around because I do NOT believe I will be very good at managing the charge in the beginning and dont want to kill $800 in batteries my first year

The expectation was shore power or alternator only for a Phase One build, add genny and transfer switch for Phase Two and then solar Phase Three.

If Phase One can get me from park to park with running a cheap, used AC fridge, I can update to maybe LP later or just a better more efficient model.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by PNWorBUST72

I am going to sit back and read this whole thread again tomorr because I am starting to get overwhelmed but you guys have all been great in trying to help. I just thought I was closer to getting it then maybe I am...

Anyways...

Couple points on hardware I was looking at:

1. Stinger 500AMP isolator
2. 4stage smart charger GoPower 100AMP 4-Stage
3. transfer switch - Xantrex 8080915 PROwatt SW Auto Transfer Switch - Not sure if I need if I dont plan on a genny OR can I connect the genny to my Shore side connector and wait on this?
4. Inverter - Xantrex PROWatt 2000 Inverter - Not sure on these final numbers but this should over me for awhile.
5. Progressive 50AMP AC Distribution Panel - separate 12v fuse block
6. 4 Duracell 6v 215AH Deep Cycles - I was planning on going cheap first time around because I do NOT believe I will be very good at managing the charge in the beginning and dont want to kill $800 in batteries my first year

The expectation was shore power or alternator only for a Phase One build, add genny and transfer switch for Phase Two and then solar Phase Three.

If Phase One can get me from park to park with running a cheap, used AC fridge, I can update to maybe LP later or just a better more efficient model.

Sounds like a plan

I haven't looked at all those components, but as a plan it should work.

The only thing I would consider is not using the alternator to charge (which only works well through that item linked above) and isnstead spend just a little more on a 200W Inverter Generator.

That will charge through the shore-power connection, and you will find a hundred other uses for it.

[PNWorBUST72]

Although I am NOT sure on the wiring and order of the parts is the best, I assumed that the 2000w inverter I was buying would handle DC to AC conversion and the smart charger would allow AC/Shore power to charge both battery banks when I was connected.

[EmilS]

Guys, especially for those who have recently become interested in solar energy. I'm throwing an article on the subject here. It tells you in general terms about solar panels and what you need for them.

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by EmilS

Guys, especially for those who have recently become interested in solar energy. I'm throwing an article on the subject here. It tells you in general terms about solar panels and what you need for them.

Thanks Emil. The article isn't very specific to skoolies, just a generic article about solar in general.

Appreciated, though.