Emergency exit interlock bypass

robertv · 04-09-2019, 07:04 PM

Thanks to all of you about to post that this has been addressed adnauseam, and kindly point me in the right direction to learn how to bypass this so my bus will still start.

Thanks

o1marc · 04-09-2019, 07:45 PM

You have to figure out which wires to connect to make it think the door is closed. On mine, after deleting the hardware, one ground wire still had to be connected. Check one connection at a time and turn the key until you get the combo that works.

PNW_Steve · 04-10-2019, 11:32 AM

Knowing what bus you have would be helpful. Perhaps you could fill out your profile?

On my bus I had to remove a relay behind the dash and plug a jumper into the relay socket.

Here to learn · 04-15-2019, 08:04 AM

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/i-...ere-14909.html

This was my saga with interlock issues, I posted wiring diagrams and user manual on page six

BusLife4eva · 09-30-2019, 02:14 PM

Looking for a little help.I have a 1999 International 3800 DT466E Amtran with a manual transmission. Yesterday, I tried to start it with the emergency doors open. The buzzer went off it wouldn't start. (Duh) so I closed all the doors and hatches and tried again. Now the solenoid just clicks but the buzzer does not sound. It's the top solenoid in the picture. I haven't removed any wires at all. The only thing that was taken out was the seats. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 09-30-2019, 04:05 PM

two things to try.
those solenoids do go bad and are just hang up and the jolt to the solenoid not having the go ahead from the interlock could have been all it took to make it hang up.
get someone to help and while they are turning the key to start tap on the solenoid with a decent size wrench to see if it releases,starts.
another is turn the key to the run position and stick a screwdriver between little post and the big post with the wire going out to the starter. its gonna sparkle a little so dont be scared of it.
if either of those work its time for a new solenoid
or just replace it cause they are only 10-12$.
to me if its clicking and thats it then its hung up and tapping on it might free it up with no problems for awhile but i would have a new one on hand cause its just a matter of time.
the newer one that says 12v continuous is to power all your lights and accessories one the key hits the on position .
have fun

BusLife4eva · 09-30-2019, 04:16 PM

Hey thanks for the response Jolly Roger!

I tried to tap on it with the handle of a screwdriver to no avail. Tried to jump it with said screwdriver by touching the little post and the large post with constant power. Nothing happened. Would it be the large post that only has power when the ignition is on?
There is another bus near me that I am going to go get some parts off of tomorrow to try the swap it out option. Only new solenoid I can find is on amazon for between $40-$50. Where can these be found cheaper?

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 09-30-2019, 05:07 PM

the one that says constant power is not to the starter the top one you mentioned is for the starter and should say intermittent if its readable.
a screwdriver probably isnt heavy enough. try jumping the starter solenoid with a screwdriver,check your battery voltage cause even new batteries arent charged properly and maybe with a helper chock the wheels and put a hammer on the starter

BusLife4eva · 09-30-2019, 05:19 PM

The battery voltage read 12.7. Hammering on the starter is generally reserved for a failing starter correct? I will try to hit the solenoid a little harder next time I try it. The solenoid in the picture with the discolored label is the one in question. This picture doesn't show all the writing on the label.

BusLife4eva · 10-01-2019, 02:14 PM

Ugh... Hammered on the solenoid to try and free it, cleaned the battery terminal connections, made sure all the doors/windows/hatches were securely shut, gave it a jump start... to no avail. 😩 I did get a few solenoids to swap in and try but I ran out time for today. Will post another update tomorrow and hopefully it will be better news.

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 10-01-2019, 03:48 PM

12.7 as measured/read where?
thats weak for starting regardless of where read.
read at the battery that means after the loss through the cables its to weak at the solenoid.
read at the solenoid? what did the batteries read?
if the batteries read around 14v and the solenoid is only reading 12 then its a connection or a bad cable in between the two.
how many batteries do you have.
need to check and clean the grounds also that solenoid probably grounds through the mounting screws so if i installed a new solenoid i would probably also install new self tapping screws one size bigger so it cuts into fresh metal for a good ground.
good luck

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 10-01-2019, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BusLife4eva

Ugh... Hammered on the solenoid to try and free it, cleaned the battery terminal connections, made sure all the doors/windows/hatches were securely shut, gave it a jump start... to no avail. 😩 I did get a few solenoids to swap in and try but I ran out time for today. Will post another update tomorrow and hopefully it will be better news.

others have had problems with there roof hatches even being secured shut
seems like they develop play in the frame and or the switch clearance just wears down to much for a proper closed signal.
i dont have any to worry about just what i have read over the years
but 12.7 volts is barely enough for a gas engine much less having a chance on a diesel engine

BusLife4eva · 10-01-2019, 04:00 PM

It read 12.7 at the battery terminals.

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 10-01-2019, 04:07 PM

thats to weak.
one or two batteries?
what engine

BusLife4eva · 10-01-2019, 04:12 PM

2 batteries

DT466e

Even with a jump start it just clicked. I'm going to swap the solenoid first chance I get charge the batteries up and hope for the best. I acquired to nearly brand new emergency hatches today so I can swap them in too. One of those switches may be bad or like you said not being depressed fully due to age. Are those easy to bypass so I don't have to worry about them?

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 10-01-2019, 04:45 PM

best to disconnect and charge each battery seperately and check voltage on each battery after charged. the weaker battery will always pull the better battery down to its level.
they will not equalize at a happy level between the two.
the hatch switches are a normally closed switch so all you have to do to eliminate the switch is disconnect it and twist the two wires together to complete the circuit

BusLife4eva · 10-01-2019, 04:48 PM

Awesome thank you for all your help! I'm about to get off of work and I'll be tinkering with it tonight.

Jolly Roger bus 223 · 10-01-2019, 05:39 PM

all your emergency switches should be the same the screws for the switches ground them and the wires are only breaking power to and from.
twist the two together, wire nut , i would tape the wire and nut if i dont plan on ever seeing it again or at least a wire nut if you are just playing with them.

o1marc · 10-01-2019, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

all your emergency switches should be the same the screws for the switches ground them and the wires are only breaking power to and from.
twist the two together, wire nut , i would tape the wire and nut if i dont plan on ever seeing it again or at least a wire nut if you are just playing with them.

Mine had female spade connectors on the switch wires, I just unplgged them and plugged them into each other to test, the bus starts when they are connected.

BusLife4eva · 10-01-2019, 07:00 PM

Ok swapped the solenoid and got the same result. Each battery is now reading 12.4 so they are separated and I have the first on a 2amp charge. How many hours should I give each battery? I was planning on letting the first one go overnight and switch it to the second in the morning. I ran out of light tonight, so I'm going to do the edoor bypass in the morning.

You may also like: