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05-16-2018, 11:19 AM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 505
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Gillig
Chassis: Phantom
Engine: CAT 3208
Rated Cap: 87, says Gillig...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
That's the reservoir for the blinker fluid.
Is yours missing?
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I guess Gilligs are different...
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05-19-2018, 03:28 PM
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#22
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 17
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I bought 4 cheaper panels from eBay. I talked to a guy with a van that used extra strength Velcro to attach similar ones. He didn't mention having issues. I should have mine installed this summer so I'll have some first hand experience. I like the low profile even though they cost more per watt.
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05-19-2018, 04:58 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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I was thinking about ordering 10 230w flex panels direct from China. I'm waiting on the rep to email me
It says ballpark .85 a watt, probably depends how much you buy
I'm only worried about heat. Warming my bus and/or lowering panel efficiency
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05-19-2018, 06:54 PM
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#24
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 11
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Flexi solar
I know the industry is changing fast, but as of my last check, they are just not efficient, you can double your wattage in the same space with good monochrystaline panels. Heat is not usually an issue with flexi because there is not enough power going through to worry about it
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05-19-2018, 06:57 PM
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#25
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 11
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Having the 3 inch gap with real panels REALLY helps as a thermal barrier to keep the bus from turning into a 180degree oven on a 90degree day!!! Much more power in the same space!!
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05-19-2018, 10:33 PM
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#26
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,363
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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I have just over 2kW of tiltable good ol' rigid panels on my roof - none of that flexible nonsense for me! Stiff is good. I have several inches of space between the roof and panels to allow easy natural air conduction and to prevent heat buildup; in the summer my interior is barely above outside air temperature, and that's without any A/C or forced ventilation, and that's also with the original fiberglass insulation which is probably almost worthless anyway. Whether you use flexible panels, semi-flexible panels or stiffies is less important than maintaining a useful air gap under them, just like the tropical double roof that MCI used for the MC5 buses built for Aramco in Saudi Arabia. Some of the old Series 1 Land Rovers, such as The Antichrist (in The Gods Must Be Crazy, one of my favorite films), also had tropical roofs that were quite effective in the days before vehicle A/C.
I strongly recommend spending the extra time and thought to make some support frames for whatever panels you use, not only to keep the interior cooler but to also maximize power production in hot weather (which is when you need maximum available power to run fans and A/Cs). It ain't rocket surgery to come up with something that allows air to circulate under them.
John
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05-19-2018, 11:25 PM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wisconsin N.E.
Posts: 412
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Any thoughts on installing a corogated plastic under for an air gap?
Saves a few hundred pounds of rack and heavier panels up high
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05-19-2018, 11:51 PM
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#28
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,363
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown, integral. (With 2kW of tiltable solar)
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatthefak
Any thoughts on installing a corogated plastic under for an air gap?
Saves a few hundred pounds of rack and heavier panels up high
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I don't think that would allow much free air circulation, but maybe I'm wrong? Try a piece and see how much air moves through it - it would be easy to use smoke to see any actual air movement. On the other hand, a few inches of air gap will work, especially if the panels are angled (mine are at 21 degrees down when they're stowed against the roof for travel).
John
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05-20-2018, 11:01 AM
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#29
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 11
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Plastic roofing
I had thought to put aluminum sheets up there as a heat barrier on the half that doesn’t have panels. They would follow the curve of the roof so they would actually look pretty cool, you could use a roof vent exhaust fan to remidigate interior hot air and keep the air moving under your heat shield at the same time... then I decided to build a deck up there instead
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05-23-2019, 04:43 PM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nanoplane
I do have 20 of them on my roof... just finishing up the installation...
I'll let you all know how it runs..
I did add some strips of rubber weatherstripping between the panel and the roof in an attempt to reduce direct contact and provide a small space for air to flow... not sure how effective it will be..
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Hi nanoplane,
I’ve been looking at flexible solar panels and wanted to see how yours are faring. How’s it going? Any problems? Any lessons learned or tips you can pass along?
Thanks,
Danjo
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05-23-2019, 04:51 PM
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#31
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo
Hi nanoplane,
I’ve been looking at flexible solar panels and wanted to see how yours are faring. How’s it going? Any problems? Any lessons learned or tips you can pass along?
Thanks,
Danjo
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One thing to consider if you have non movable panels is to add 30-40% more panels than needed if they were adjustable to compensate for inefficiency.
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05-24-2019, 10:55 AM
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#32
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Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kingston, WA
Posts: 111
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: 8.3L Cummins Turbo
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solar lessons learned.
So, the panels are working well, but I think if I modify or do it again, I would change now they're mounted to the roof to introduce a little space between the panel and the roof. Maybe mount the panels on 1/4" curved rails under each panel (three for each panel at the mounting hole points.
I haven't had a chance yet to do a "real" boon docking test.. Priorities changed to me working on a tiny house for awhile....
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05-24-2019, 11:02 AM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Philadelpiha Pennsylvania
Posts: 397
Year: 2007
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: FE Bus
Engine: DT-466 7.6L Turbo Diesel
Rated Cap: 77
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I have two flex panels from Windynation $119 on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And one universal power group 100ah battery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With a 600 watt pure sine wave inverter and a 2000 watt modified sine wave inverter.
The panels charge the battery in about 3 hours from 50%, though I have yet to get that low. 100ah is enough to run electronics like tvs and lights. I'm adding a second battery to power the fridge. The panels are screwed to the roof with metal self tappers and then caulked. I also caulked the panel an inch in to the edge all the way around. These panels peel on the edges if not protected.
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