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Old 07-12-2019, 09:11 AM   #1
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For Shore! (power)

It's getting closer to the time I can move out of the ghetto!
Well... to abandon my ghetto setup of heavy-duty extension cords snaked thru the door and strewn in coils about the interior. Finally hooking up a series circuits terminating in kosher outlets, all attached to a b'gawd breaker box.
This project has been left on the back burner, due to other obligations and tasks. And while planned for, the Sun isn't anywhere near the horizon for my anticipated solar system, so here's hoping for a simple solution.
The hiccough that I've encountered is locating the proper wire to run from the breakers to the exterior.
The b-box will be sited in a spare tire storage/closet behind the pilot's seat, facing forward. I'll be routing said jumper thru an open-ended square tube in the pillar between the windscreen & driver's window. Then, mounting an acceptable receptacle between the L steer and battery box.
All I've found so far are ready-go cords with the males & females already mated to the wires. Seems wasteful to whack off the female. Not to mention I'd need to go with a mondo expensive 50-footer to have sufficient slack left over after mangling one of those, to still comfortably connect to Con-Ed.
While I'm not remotely reticent about rigging a home-grown 30A shore power connecting cable, I'm hoping all y'all can steer me towards finding snd securing a nifty, thrifty option for the +/- 15' long wire run needed to safely bring the juice in to the box.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:26 AM   #2
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8g Romex wire from your local hardware store. Make sure you put rubber bushings around and sharp edges.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pizote View Post
8g Romex wire from your local hardware store. Make sure you put rubber bushings around and sharp edges.
Thanx! Strand, not solid core, is my understanding.
Seems I recollect reading somewhere that welding cables made for a safe, cost-efficient option...
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:46 AM   #4
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Your choice. If you go stranded you will need a larger gauge. If your ends are terminated properly, the vibrations should not matter. In 40 years If/when the copper becomes brittle, your bus probably won’t even be around.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:09 AM   #5
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30amp a/c only needs 10 gauge stranded, 4 wire. No harm in heavier though. Buy it by the foot in Lowes, Home depot etc.
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Old 07-12-2019, 11:54 AM   #6
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My shore power feeds in to a 30 amp rv receptacale where it feeds the 120v system via a pigtail. The same pigtail can be plugged into either the genny receptacle or the inverter receptacle. The pig tail itself terminates in the breaker box thus supplying power to the 120v circuits.
Jack

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Old 07-12-2019, 12:23 PM   #7
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I'd just buy whatever footage of 10/3 cabtire, type SO and a male end and a female end. You might find 15 ft a bit short at times so maybe buy a longer length. Sometimes a piece shows up off the end of a roll and is under 30 ft. That would work great.


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Old 07-12-2019, 12:37 PM   #8
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I'll second the recommendation for SO (or SOOW) cable. It is oil, water, and abrasion resistant, stranded, and readily available by the foot at big-box home centers and electrical supply houses alike.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:22 PM   #9
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For reference:

https://www.usawire-cable.com/pdfs/NEC%20AMPACITIES.pdf

It's a 2002 excerpt from the NEC, but I doubt things have changed.

1) Minimum Wire Gauge:

Regardless of what wire you use, your breakers/terminals (what the wire secures to on either end) will determine the temperature rating to be used in the calculations. So assuming the worst-case of 60-degrees (most breakers are 60 or 75), you're looking at a minimum of 10G for 30A (copper). So that's your minimum wire gauge. 10G. You could go larger, 8G for example, but not smaller, no matter what temp-rating of wire you use.

2) Minimum Wire Temp Rating:

In order to dissipate heat from the terminals of the breakers / other terminations, you must meet the minimum gauge above. 10G copper wire is rated at 30A, 35A, & 40A, respectfully, for 60-degree, 75-degree, and 90-degree rated wire. But depending on your anticipated ambient temp (the temp the wire is subjected to), you may need to de-rate the wire. Using the temp correction chart, you'll see that 60-degree rated wire, which has a max ampacity of 30A, would be unsuitable at any temps above 86-degrees. So if you used 60-degree wire, you'd have to go up to 8G minimum. 75 is good to about 104-degrees (.88 x 35A = 30.8A). 90-degree is good to 131 (.76 x 40A = 30.4A). I'd say 90-degree wire would be the only safe choice. If you used anything less then go to 8G.

3) Wire Type:

a) Copper. Don't even consider aluminum.

b) Solid vs Stranded. I personally wouldn't and won't use anything but stranded wire in a mobile / rv application, but this is based mainly on intuition and weighing the opinions of others rather than personal experience.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician nor do I play one on TV
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pizote View Post
If you go stranded you will need a larger gauge.

I don't believe this statement to be correct, but I'm no expert. Could you provide a reference please?
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