|
I've been diagnosing vehicle electric gremlins for over 50 years. It used to be really easy back when there were only a few circuits and every manufacturer pretty much did the wiring similar to each other. Older British care were really easy, only two fuses. You could put a third fuse between the first two and start and drive the car away, no steering lock.
Now, there are possibly hundreds of circuits.I won't address computer wiring here. Most school buses complicate the problem because there are two manufacturers involved. The people who built the "truck/chassis" and the people who added the "bus" to it. Even my Bluebird AARE, entirely built by Bluebird, has two wiring diagrams, one for the chassis and one for the body.
In the case of most "dognose" and shuttle type buses, if you can't get the wiring diagram from the manufacturer that built the "bus" part, the wiring for things like lights, dash, radio, would be similar to the equivalent "truck" wiring.
In later, can't really say when, chassis. The manufacturer, International, Freightliner, Ford, GM, etc, have provided a plug where the "bus" manufacturer could simply plug their part(school bus things) into the chassis.
A wiring diagram is an invaluable tool and, depending on who drew it, are easy to read. Bluebird was unresponsive to my requests but, a call to the local dealer got me the wiring diagrams. Your results may vary. Note, you want a wiring diagram not a schematic. A wiring diagram shows how it is wired, a schematic shows how it works electrically with no indication of how the wires are hooked up in the real world.
To the OP, if your dash looks like it came from a van or truck and EVERYTHING else works, the problem is more likely in the rheostat that controls the dimming of the dash lights. It would be really rare to have the dash lights on a fuse to them self.
|
Linear Mode
