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Old 05-07-2011, 04:19 PM   #1
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Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

Anyone doing this, should I?
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:40 PM   #2
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

your talking 120 volts, Im not sure if it would be really needed(,if you have a converter) when you plug in to say a camp site or other supply, that system is already grounded, so for that reason I dont think there is a need for it, I havent grounded and im not sure how I would do it. my converter is grounded for 12v I ran it back to the house battery,
If someone thinks that it should , tell us how to do it.

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Old 05-07-2011, 08:45 PM   #3
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

Thanks GB, that was my thought, I just wanted to be sure.
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:05 PM   #4
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

If you ground the 120v to the bus, you need to check the plug you hook up to with a receptacle tester EVERY TIME!!! I've gotten a couple nasty jolts when someone elses cord or tool had the ground and common reversed. You don't wont visiters getting zaped when they touch your bus. I'm going to ground mine, just to be on the safe side.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:53 AM   #5
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

I have a built in surge protector , it should pick up bad grounds,low voltage, and high voltages, I really recomend one, I blew my first converter up using a generator that went nuts!!

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Old 05-08-2011, 04:58 PM   #6
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

The bus's body is attached to ground at its power panel, and earth ground is done through the power cord by the AC mains.
(White neutral wire is not bonded to bus's power panel ground.)

What you want, electrically speaking, is a return path, so if the black wire makes a connection to the body (ie. a ground fault), the circuit breaker trips. If you did not tie your bus's chassis to ground you could then have your whole bus at 120 volts. Proper grounding helps to reduce that risk.

Of course, all the wiring has to be correct, including the campground's.
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:00 AM   #7
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

From my (albeit limited) understanding, you have to ground your bus 120v system to the chassis and not just the neutral bar or your will trip the campground GFCI outlet. I'm not an electrical expert, but I consulted with one when building my system, and that was his advice.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:44 PM   #8
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
From my (albeit limited) understanding, you have to ground your bus 120v system to the chassis and not just the neutral bar or your will trip the campground GFCI outlet. I'm not an electrical expert, but I consulted with one when building my system, and that was his advice.
You should NOT have the neutral bar connected to the bus chassis - the campground/donor outlet will have a neutral to ground bond near the meter.

The green (ground) lead, or in its place a metallic conduit, should be connected to all AC devices in the system, such as the third prong of outlets or switch frames. A few people like the AC system to "float" from the bus chassis, most will probably bond the chassis to the green wire system. I don't know what is "code," but then the RV section of the code appears to have been drafted by a committee of Stick-N-Staple makers.
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:52 PM   #9
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbear
You should NOT have the neutral bar connected to the bus chassis - the campground/donor outlet will have a neutral to ground bond near the meter.
Correct - neutral to the neutral bar, then a seperate ground bar that goes to chassis. No neutral to chassis otherwise it becomes ground if the ground is also going to chassis. Sorry if my last post was misleading!
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Old 06-15-2011, 06:16 PM   #10
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Re: Grounding shore power to the skoolie's body.

Can I please get some clarification? I am only using a generator at this point. I have one 30 amp cord leading into the breaker box (to run the rooftop ac only), and one 15 amp cord leading in (to run one 110v outlet); these both plug into separate outlets on the generator. I bought all parts at Home Depot. I used a standard breaker box that accepts two breakers; I'm using two separate 20 amp breakers. There was one "bus" (as I think it's called) that I now realize was riveted to the box, thus grounding it to the bus when I bolted that box to the inside metal wall of the bus; I ran all white (neutral, correct?) wires to this "bus". The hot wires are all direct through the breakers as they should be. But, I took the bare ground wire coming in from my cords that leads to the generator and the bare ground wire that comes from the rooftop AC and the 110v outlet, twisted all of these together and then using a short 6" bare wire (that I also twisted with the rest of the bare wires), and screwed that into the box of the breaker box, directly into the metal of the bus too. So in effect I now realize the neutrals are grounded to the bus, as are the grounds. From what I'm reading above, this might not be correct. Can someone please enlighten me before I electrocute someone? I never have liked messing with power that can kill me; 12v wiring is more my speed. Thanks.
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