Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-25-2008, 01:53 PM   #21
Bus Nut
 
swinada's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern BC Canada
Posts: 538
Re: How do you choose the battery isolator size?

I tried to put some of these suggestions into pictures so I can envision them a little easier. The drawings are not very professional, please forgive me.
And please correct me if I did anything wrong.

Quote:
1. A heavy-duty battery disconnect switch from plus on one bank to plus on the other, operated by a smart operator. No voltage drop or power used anywhere, but if left on can result in both systems becoming discharged.


Quote:
3. A solenoid from plus to plus powered from the ignition accessory circuits, which connects whenever the bus is in the "run" position. This assumes the alternator is running whenever you leave the key on.
__________________
Proud owner of a: 1996 Thomas Safe-T-Liner,Cummins 6CTA 8.3Lt diesel, Allison AT.
http://picasaweb.google.com/swinada/BusPictures http://www.swinada.com/bus.htm
http://lh4.ggpht.com/swinada/SL91F-b...opbussmall.jpg
swinada is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 02:20 PM   #22
Bus Nut
 
swinada's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern BC Canada
Posts: 538
Re: How do you choose the battery isolator size?

Quote:
8. Two isloators, one for an AC-powered charger, and one for the alternator.


Quote:
If you tie your alternator output to your charger output to share an isolator, you are braver than I am.
Is that statement still correct if the AC charger has the capability of charging up to 3 banks? Like the Xantrax Truecharge 40
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/69/p/1/pt/7/product.asp
The Xantrex manual states that this charger is for deep cycle batteries, can the regular starter batteries also be charged with this charger?
__________________
Proud owner of a: 1996 Thomas Safe-T-Liner,Cummins 6CTA 8.3Lt diesel, Allison AT.
http://picasaweb.google.com/swinada/BusPictures http://www.swinada.com/bus.htm
http://lh4.ggpht.com/swinada/SL91F-b...opbussmall.jpg
swinada is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 05:04 PM   #23
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upstate NY (Mohawk Valley)
Posts: 1,096
Re: How do you choose the battery isolator size?

Quote:
If you tie your alternator output to your charger output to share an isolator, you are braver than I am.

Is that statement still correct if the AC charger has the capability of charging up to 3 banks? Like the Xantrax Truecharge 40?
I should have been clearer:
If you tie your alternator output to your charger output to share an isolator ISOLATED FROM THE BATTERY, you are braver than I am. The battery absorbs any voltage spikes that could cause damage. They should go through the isolator and be absorbed indirectly, but I don''t tempt fate.

The drawings are correct representations of what I was talking about. Reading the Xantrex install manual, it appears the drawing with two isolators and the one wiht the Xantrex are electrically the same, except that the Xantrex has a 40-amp 3 port isolator hidden inside the housing,
__________________
Someone said "Making good decisions comes from experience, experience comes from bad decisions." I say there are three kinds of people: those who learn from their mistakes, those who learn from the mistakes of others, and those who never learn.
Redbear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2016, 11:44 PM   #24
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Elyria Ohio
Posts: 1
Year: 2007
Coachwork: United
Engine: n/a
RedBear Do you suggest using a Cole Hersee 200 Amp Battery Isolator for a Ford F350 Super duty that is constantly pulling behind it a 20 foot enclosed trailer with has 12 - 12 volt lighting on along with a huge light bar above the back of the ramp door and 2 light bars on the top of the truck one overseeing the bed and another for seeing forward ? alternator is the standard 110v
izzydojo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2017, 10:42 AM   #25
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 7
Year: 2003
Engine: T444E
Posting here as well since it is the same topic.

We have an alternator with an internal regulator, but we have an isolator with only 3 terminals, no exciter.
Is there a way to excite the alternator from another source? Like the ignition maybe?
BenMaClem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 09:17 AM   #26
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 819
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 250, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV
Quote:
Originally Posted by Train-train View Post
Good info on the isolator. I need to clarify something as I am confused. When we are discussing a battery isolator, it is a system that charges the starting batteries as well as the house batteries. The isolator keeps the two systems from interfering with each other. In a couple of post, I wonder if the poster is talking about a battery disconnect?

I have a nagging electrical issue in that something is draining my batteries. I have tried to identify the culprit but I have not found it yet. I have been thinking about installing a battery disconnect as a for sure way to easily keep my batteries from draining. I have shopped for one and I do not understand proper sizing and where it is intended to be installed.

Originally , I thought the disconnect should disconnect the battery as close to the battery as possible. The sizing of the disconnect vs. the size of my battery leads are not a match so I am thinking this disconnect is intended to be installed perhaps in the instrument panel. Could someone set me straight?
I'm thinking about this.

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-BIR500-50...ttery+isolator

A few thoughts on using that that may or may not apply to you. I do not have house batteries (yet). My batteries are very low right now as a result of not driving and not having electric around. Solar 12V charger with controller was ordered this morning.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, in order to use the isolator I linked, I've got to find switch 12v so that when I turn the key on, I can energize the relay closing the circuit for everything else. I've no idea what the starter draws for current. Haven't been able to find it online with teh starter part number. Using the relay will save me the effort of throwing a manual switch. Since I have to move the E-door lock physically I'm ok with having to manually throw a switch. It's just one more thing to the pre-flight check.

Since I'm still OEM electric all I really need is a kill switch to stop whatever leakage current (if any) from discharging my starting batteries.

Oh wow, there's an entire novel of posts after this.
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 01:43 PM   #27
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MD near DC
Posts: 496
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
I'm thinking about this.

https://www.amazon.com/NVX-BIR500-50...ttery+isolator

A few thoughts on using that that may or may not apply to you. I do not have house batteries (yet). My batteries are very low right now as a result of not driving and not having electric around. Solar 12V charger with controller was ordered this morning.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, in order to use the isolator I linked, I've got to find switch 12v so that when I turn the key on, I can energize the relay closing the circuit for everything else. I've no idea what the starter draws for current. Haven't been able to find it online with teh starter part number. Using the relay will save me the effort of throwing a manual switch. Since I have to move the E-door lock physically I'm ok with having to manually throw a switch. It's just one more thing to the pre-flight check.

Since I'm still OEM electric all I really need is a kill switch to stop whatever leakage current (if any) from discharging my starting batteries.

Oh wow, there's an entire novel of posts after this.
https://www.vintageautogarage.com/Ba...ey-p/s1202.htm
dan-fox is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 02:19 PM   #28
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 819
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 250, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Saw those but I have 2 batteries in parallel with 925 CCA each. That thing will melt at 1800 amps. I measured the current while starting the bus the other day and it said I had .2 amps. I don't believe the switch is seeing either of those numbers but I've no idea what it is really seeing. 500 amps for 10 seconds "should be" safe but I'd rather KNOW it's safe.
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2017, 12:09 PM   #29
Bus Crazy
 
Stu & Filo. T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,331
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by Train-train View Post
Good info on the isolator. I need to clarify something as I am confused. When we are discussing a battery isolator, it is a system that charges the starting batteries as well as the house batteries. The isolator keeps the two systems from interfering with each other. In a couple of post, I wonder if the poster is talking about a battery disconnect?

I have a nagging electrical issue in that something is draining my batteries. I have tried to identify the culprit but I have not found it yet. I have been thinking about installing a battery disconnect as a for sure way to easily keep my batteries from draining. I have shopped for one and I do not understand proper sizing and where it is intended to be installed.

Originally , I thought the disconnect should disconnect the battery as close to the battery as possible. The sizing of the disconnect vs. the size of my battery leads are not a match so I am thinking this disconnect is intended to be installed perhaps in the instrument panel. Could someone set me straight?
I had a Class C up until a few yrs ago & I was draining 2 Optima Blue tops in just a couple days that were for my house circuits, the way it was set up was it had a solenoid that would close once the alternator started producing energy & charge my house batteries,.

Well one day I'm at work discussing this problem with 2 other coworkers & the Old Old times says, " Take that solenoid apart & see if theres a green film inside" & sure enough there was much like the film you see on copper pipes it ran from the terminal side for the house batteries over the insulator & to the solenoid housing. I changed out the solenoid & never had author problem with it.
Stu & Filo. T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2017, 12:29 PM   #30
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 28
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 65
Not sure if this helps, but this is how I solved this problem. Below is a link for a relay excited by higher voltage from the alternator running or charging from solar etc. The relay closes when anything is charging either set of batteries and then opens when the charging source goes away. Rated for a constant 140 amps.

With two 900 CCA bus batteries and two deep cycle optima yellowtop house batteries I've never seen over 65 amps crossing from the alternator even when it first closes and my house batteries were down around 11.2 volts because I left something on overnight, so 140 amps goes a long way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
coolbus is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How did you choose your bus? That Guy in Maine Conversion General Discussions 8 01-18-2014 09:54 PM
For Sale - NIB battery isolator, 240 amp bodaver32 Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 1 12-12-2011 08:19 AM
How to choose a bus? huggyb1972 Everything Else | General Skoolie Discussions 2 09-03-2010 08:45 AM
how to choose what size RV furnace? dentedvw Conversion General Discussions 1 03-13-2010 12:27 PM
Main Battery - Starting Battery Group 31? 8D? Tone Conversion Tutorials and How-to's 5 04-16-2009 05:02 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.