Inine fuses and breakers

[EricW]

What do people prefer and why?

Disconnect switches used in conjunction?

It seems like a breaker would double as an easy disconnect switch as well as overcurrent protection. I've seen some battery lug fuses which seem like an easy idea but just trying to ask to see if anyone has a strong opinion one way or another and why.

Incase youre wondering I have all my electrical components and most wiring and lugs and am trying to figure out my overcurrent protection.

8x 100w 12v mono panels #10 to combiner box

#4 to morningstar tristar mppt60
-manual calls for 75amp fuse or breaker on both sides I think-
#4 to battery bank

2/0 to connect 6 t105 for 675ah 12v

2/0 to 300 amp breaker or fuse to magnum ms2000 30a inverter charger.

Inverter charger to AC breaker box

Leftover #4 to DC fuse panel.

Stranded copper wire for everything.

I have everything except the battery cables and lugs, combiner box, and circuits or breakers and am planning that in the next couple weeks.



Also does anyone know of any free programs to make wiring diagrams on ipads or tablets?

[BlackJohn]

I prefer fuses any day of the week over breakers, but there are exceptions.

When trouble shooting it is so much easier to trace and prove what power you have where and when. No guessing,it's either good or bad. When fuses blow there is a reason and that needs to be corrected. With breakers resetting not such a good thing, that's why fires happen.

The only place for breakers on a vehicle is on the headlights and wipers where you can't be without either under any circumstances. They may go on and off but you can then fix the problem at your earliest convenience.

Good luck on building your systems.

John

[EricW]

Thanks, so with a fuse vs a breaker it forces you to question why it blew rather than just flip the breaker back. Is there any mechanical difference other than the option to reset the breaker rather than replace the fuse?

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by EricW

Thanks, so with a fuse vs a breaker it forces you to question why it blew rather than just flip the breaker back. Is there any mechanical difference other than the option to reset the breaker rather than replace the fuse?

Well yes, when a circuit is interrupted, it is just my nature to find out why the interruption. If you don't respect the laws of electrical nature and theory, why bother to be concerned about fusing any type of circuiting?

They are there for our protection as well as equipment protection.

Mechanically, in a fuse there is a physical metal meltdown, a permanent disconnect.
With a breaker the disconnection can be reset many times, yes, and that is where human complacency is greatest. We are taught to trust these pieces of equipment as "foolproof, never failing." That is why people die and get hurt by electricity..you have to know why the circuit failed.

Hence, the need to constantly be wary when testing. Fuses eliminate this reality altogether and that is why they get my vote. Others may not agree.

John

[Defjr333]

I too agree with the fuses over breakers group. I went with ANL type fuses and fuse holders. In fact, my 3000W/ 6000Wpeak inverter/ charger called for 500A ANL fuses on both sides ( at battery bank AND DC input of unit). For my DC feed to my electric panel (for running DC only equipment) I ran 4awg with 80A ANL fuses on both sides of that run as well. With the Inverter/ charger having a built in breaker, plus the mains and branch AC breakers and individual DC fuses for each device(inside ac/dc distribution panel), I feel I should be pretty well covered. The only protection not technically "built in" would be for my shore input, to which I am planning to use a surge protecting dongle.
Doug

[EricW]

Is there a reason a blade fuse is anything worse than any other types of fuses? Having a hard time finding 75amp fuse blocks or holders other than blade fuses. I could go up to 80amp for the #4 wire? Manual calls for 75

[Rusty]

Circuit breakers come in 3 types:

Type 1 are auto resettable, and once tripped, will attempt to reset the circuit, or 'cycle', as the internal elements of the breaker cool down.

Type 2 (trip and hold) are called modified reset, and will remain tripped until the power is removed from the breaker.

Type 3 circuit breakers are manual resettable, and require that a button or lever be pushed in order to reset the breaker.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by EricW

Is there a reason a blade fuse is anything worse than any other types of fuses? Having a hard time finding 75amp fuse blocks or holders other than blade fuses. I could go up to 80amp for the #4 wire? Manual calls for 75

Check with a local electrical company or wholesaler to find the right fuse blocks you need. They may have a lot of those in the back shelves wasting away. cheaper than buying new too.

Maybe oversize the blocks to 100amp then in future you could upgrade fuses and cabling.

John