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Old 10-07-2018, 03:22 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Iota Power Distribution panel

I bought some used parts from a 2007 Montana camper last weekend. He also had a power distribution center he called it. It is an Iota power distribution panel with fuses and breakers. It had a DLS-55 DC power convertor. He was wanting $150 for that whole setup. I didn't buy it because I wasn't sure if it was a good deal. If I bought it, would it work for a basis for my electrical in the bus? I assume with a system like this, I can hook up to a battery and it converts it to 110v ac? I notice it plugs in. Does that charge the battery up when you are hooked to shore power? What else would I need? I would plan to get some wiring with this as well including the battery cables. I'm wondering if I should go back for this system. It's about 1.5 he drive away...
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Old 10-08-2018, 04:10 PM   #2
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I am also searching for a power center for my rig, actually I placed an order today for a Parallax 6730D for $160. I did a brief search on the one you mention, the Iota. The DLS-55, DLS is for dual state charging. It will bulk charge a low battery and float charge full batteries. That should work, I opted for a 3-stage charger. Bulk, absorption, and float to help prolong battery life. The -55 you can have all your dc appliances running- up to 55 Amps. What are your needs for dc? I don't anticipate needing more than 30 Amps. The picture you show has 20 dc fuses, if you need that many, this is good. I see 10 A/C breakers, again, if you need them than this is good. I am planning to use 5 dc fuses and 3 A/C breakers, I won't have more than 2 batteries and maybe a small solar array at some point. I'm designing conservatively, if I outgrow my system, I'll have to upgrade. This Iota system looks like it gives you room to grow, so is it a good deal? Maybe, if that's what you want/need, price isn't bad, but it's maybe not a steal.
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Old 10-08-2018, 04:46 PM   #3
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To be honest I don't know exactly what I want to do. I plan to have a refridgerator but I don't know if it'll be 110v or an rv type that'll run on propane etc. Cost wise, I'd rather have a cheaper 110v one. But I would like for it to be able to run a day or two without having a generator running. (This would be for camping while hunting) I also plan to have an air conditioner but that will be with a generator or shore power. Interior lights will be led. Propane stove top and furnace. Maybe a stove vent over the top. I'll also have a tv / dish for tailgates. Currently for that we run a small invertor generator. I'm looking for ideas and maybe need to do more research. Would eventually like to incorporate solar power, but probably not at this time. Thanks for your insight!
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:03 PM   #4
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Used Electrical Setup

Well the gentleman with the wrecked 2007 Montana came down on his price for the AC/DC Breakers/Fuse setup along with Iota DLS-55. I got the Iota DC fuse panel, AC 240 V breaker panel, the power convertor/charger, a lot of 12v and 110v wiring, Battery disconnect switch with 6AWG wire for running to the battery and a light switch panel all for $100! I was very excited and everything pulled out fairly well. Most of the wiring was looped inside the wall so I was able to get some good lengths of wire. It also came with heavy wire that supplies the 240V AC breaker box that will go to the shore power plug. I think I've decided to remove the 50amp 240V breaker and get a 30 amp 110v breaker. My dad said I can use the existing wire, but I won't use the red wire. He said we can also jump the box to make both legs of the box have 110v. I will run half of the breakers through two different single 30amp breakers. I don't think I will ever need 240v in my short bus. This setup should save me a lot of money and time. Any thoughts/concerns?
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:05 PM   #5
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:25 AM   #6
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Iota power distribution question

I installed the distribution panel in my bus. This panel is from a camper. Regarding the 12v side I have a question:

It has a grounding bar that all ground wires (white) in the camper came back to. I assume this happens in camper because it is a wood frame. When people are building a bus, do I need to run ground wires (12v) all the back to this bar? Or can I attach the ground wire to the steel frame close to the unit that is being powered by the 12v system?

I don't see a reason to run ground wires all the way back. Thanks for your input!
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:35 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Yeah, You could just ground to the vehicle body at the 12vdc supply and each 12vdc appliance/load, and not use the ground bus at all.
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:04 PM   #8
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Not sure what you used for dc cable circuits wire wise but it looks like 2 wire and ground, all in one cable. Using the ground bus for the dc at the panel is much easier to trace and troubleshoot down the road.

Your method is more labour intensive, more connections to corrode, holes to drill etc,

Strictly up to you though.
I always build electrically to make troubleshooting as simple as possible.


John
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Not sure what you used for dc cable circuits wire wise but it looks like 2 wire and ground, all in one cable. Using the ground bus for the dc at the panel is much easier to trace and troubleshoot down the road.

Your method is more labour intensive, more connections to corrode, holes to drill etc,

Strictly up to you though.
I always build electrically to make troubleshooting as simple as possible.


John
I've used some two wire that I pulled from the camper. I'm now out of that wire and I have a lot of wire from the bus. No white wires and all single wires... That is why I was weighing the option. I would use self tapping screws with a crimped on end.
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frochevy View Post
I've used some two wire that I pulled from the camper. I'm now out of that wire and I have a lot of wire from the bus. No white wires and all single wires... That is why I was weighing the option. I would use self tapping screws with a crimped on end.

By all means then go for it. I was thinking you would end up buying single conductors to do what you wanted to do. I would label them as ground for whatever item it is and note the location because we tend to forget. Keep a simple notebook for connections you make.
Where you do ground, remove any paint and get to bare metal for the crimped ends. Then grease them with dialectric goop.


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