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Old 11-18-2018, 10:57 AM   #1
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Statesville, North Carolina
Posts: 463
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: International Navistar DT360
Rated Cap: 60
Melty Fuse Block

I wrote a whole thing and then Skoolie logged me out and it disappeared when I clicked post! GRRRRR.

Need wiring diagrams/schematics for a 1993 International DT360 3600 series. Or advice on how to track down electrical gremlins.

Electric door key switch on the outside busted, no replacements available, tried to replace with a toggle switch. Hot wire touched metal, burned out inside toggle too. Disconnected entire door motor arm and made the door swing by hand and latch with a padlock.

Jump started bus with old batteries once. Wouldn't jump start again, bought new batteries. Drove a thousand miles. Got stuck in the truck fueling lane at Pilot with no electricity going to anything. Fuse block had giant melted spot. Freaked out. Got towed. $645 later the starting problem was that the nuts weren't tightened down on the new batteries.
Dealer wouldn't touch the melted fuse block because the bus garage we got the bus from apparently spliced all sorts of things and it's really a nightmare in there. Lights worked and bus ran, so kept driving.

Another fuse started to burn, so unplugged it and had no more heat or defrost for driving. Got home to NC where I can work on it and have no clue where to start. Always knew it had some kinda electrical problem because the headlights only get about 9v and even on brights it's barely enough light to drive at night.

Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 11-18-2018, 12:18 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,698
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
Well with new batteries that are fully charged you should have oodles of power.


Have you cleaned up the battery cables ever or thought of replacing them being a 1993?



Clean connections that are tight are a must on both pos and neg cables.

With this go over the neg cable to the frame as well and remove any and all rust corrosion. Make the connector shine again and then coat with dielectric grease.


You can't tell much about cable condition just looking at them. They corrode inside too and turn green, which may leave a cable with no continuity and then you see problems like you are having.
I wouldn't wait to fix this either, you could burn the bus up or worse.


John
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