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Old 09-12-2019, 09:58 PM   #1
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 2
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
No electrical at all on the bus

I have a 1997 Flat face, front engine Blue Bird bus with air brakes.
I was checking the lights and blinkers on my bus while getting it ready to move from my friends drive way last weekend when I first started it, it started right up just like every other time before. After checking everything, turning it off and then turning it back on literally a few seconds later it wouldnít start. Suddenly I have no electrical at all, not even in auxiliary. I had started the bus many times before with the windows remove and the wires to the two hatches on the ceiling clipped. What had been changed more recently is the alarm on the back door had been removed, the magnetic sensor on the front, main door had been cut and partially removed, and the stop sign was removed as well. The Stop sign was removed, wires cut and the air line going to it disconnected. I didnít cap the air line right away, but it is now, I do think the two air tanks under the bus are now empty.
I got power inside the main hatch just outside the driver side window as far as the inlet side of the 100 amp solenoid coming from the frame, no power coming out the outlet side and nothing making from the circuit breaker it goes to next or the bus bars after it. Iíve replaced the 100 amp solenoid and it changed nothing. I feel as if this is some sort of safety feature or a bad ground, just not sure and electrical things in vehicles are not my strong point.

I have been told to remove the cut wires for the main door all together. I have been told to bypass the 100 amp solenoid and jump the first circuit breaker to the 1st bus bar. I have also been told to remove the yellow control box for the amber lights and itís wire from the system. I will be trying all of this tomorrow but wanted to get another opinion and to see if I could find someone who might have a better understanding of all this.

You can see photoís and a bit of info on my Instagram at jamies_skoolie. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
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Old 09-12-2019, 10:25 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 599
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
That it started tells me your wiring is OK unless you did something between the last it started and the first time it didn’t. Did you open any doors or hatch panels? Battery got juice? Pop a breaker? Blow a fuse?
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Old 09-13-2019, 05:40 AM   #3
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 2
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
I'm not 100% sure. The back door alarm, the stop sign and removing the front door were the last few things I did and I may not have started the bus until maybe a week afterwards. I guess what I need to know is what safety features would prevent the bus from turning on or from getting any electrical at all?

I have also checked the fuses and most of them don't have any power going to them. Basically noting has any power to it after the 100 amp solenoid.

Thanks for the reply
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:04 AM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 323
Year: 1999
Coachwork: American Cargo 14'L x 7'8"W x 7'H Box
Chassis: Ford E350 Cutaway
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 11500 lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamiesbusconversion View Post
I'm not 100% sure. The back door alarm, the stop sign and removing the front door were the last few things I did and I may not have started the bus until maybe a week afterwards. I guess what I need to know is what safety features would prevent the bus from turning on or from getting any electrical at all?

I have also checked the fuses and most of them don't have any power going to them. Basically noting has any power to it after the 100 amp solenoid.

Thanks for the reply
Well, what prevents the solenoid from being energized and closing the contact that feeds power into your fuse panel?

The solenoid will have two big terminals and two small ones. The two small ones are for the coil. Check both of them for either 12V or ground and report back the results preferably with a photo.

I expect one contact to have 12V and the other no ground. This way, the solenoid is being closed by a circuit that goes from the solenoid coil to ground with all the safety switches in that line. If any switch opens (or is removed) the ground on the coil is lost and the solenoid will not close.
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:10 AM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Ogden utah
Posts: 85
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Tc2000
Engine: 5.9 24v
Rated Cap: 27
Key switch died?

Check the key switch.

Check with your voltmeter that when you are turning they key it energized the contacts on the back of the switch.
Check that the back of the switch has power at all.
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