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Old 05-08-2018, 04:55 PM   #11
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I doubt that the OP or anyone reading this thread will make any sense of it.
Talk about confusing for someone with no knowledge and wanting the simplest of answers in order to build an electrical service.
My advice to the op is disregard and hire an electrician.
Two panels aren't necessary as mentioned, the panel is built to share the 50 amp leg of shorepower.

Sometimes the advice here really makes me shake my head, this is one of them.

John
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:23 PM   #12
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Sometimes the advice here really makes me shake my head, this is one of them.

John
Yeah, this was really hard to comprehend:

At it's most basic ....

You need a shore-power input. That supplies the load centers through a breaker. You will need two load centers each fed by one of the 120V legs of the incoming power.

You will want a 120V to 12V DC power supply to feed a 12V fuse panel. You'll need fuses and wiring, but that's about it.


It seems that the only variation on this advice is to buy one, combination load center. Personally I'll go for two. They are very cheap and easy to understand, and they are standard practise.
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:01 AM   #13
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Why two seperate sub panels?
I agree with your point. There is no need for two separate/physical panels as long as you have one that will support two legs. This is still two 'circuits' (one for each leg which is kinda important to understand when attempting to operate. As in, 'why do only some of my appliances/components work when I'm connected to 30 amp shore power.'
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Old 05-09-2018, 08:25 AM   #14
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So I am ok with getting a few batteries in the bus to run things just was not sure if it was necessary when we will be using only shore power for the majority of the time. So from my understanding wire up as much as possible with 12V, lights, water pump, maby some other small appliances, then run 110 for washer, AC, big things. So when plugged into shore power with mostly 12 v wiring would an inverter be sufficient for 12V and big appliances? Thank You Guys!!
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Old 05-09-2018, 11:09 AM   #15
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So I am ok with getting a few batteries in the bus to run things just was not sure if it was necessary when we will be using only shore power for the majority of the time. So from my understanding wire up as much as possible with 12V, lights, water pump, maby some other small appliances, then run 110 for washer, AC, big things. So when plugged into shore power with mostly 12 v wiring would an inverter be sufficient for 12V and big appliances? Thank You Guys!!
You don't need an inverter at all. Inverters change DC to AC.

What you need is a 12V power supply that will run from 120V AC.

You can do it two ways. Either buy a power supply, feed it from your AC panel and run its output to a 12V fuse box ... or you can buy one or more deep-cycle batteries, feed the 12V fuse box from there and fit a three0stage charger for your batteries fed from the AC panel.

If you do it the second way you will have 12V when not connected to shore-power although you will still need to charge the batteries when they drop to 50%
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Old 05-09-2018, 02:56 PM   #16
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So I am ok with getting a few batteries in the bus to run things just was not sure if it was necessary when we will be using only shore power for the majority of the time. So from my understanding wire up as much as possible with 12V, lights, water pump, maby some other small appliances, then run 110 for washer, AC, big things. So when plugged into shore power with mostly 12 v wiring would an inverter be sufficient for 12V and big appliances? Thank You Guys!!
You need a quality bank of deep-cycle batteries, sufficient to service your 12V energy budget for however many days you will be away from shore power at a time.

Later on think about solar maybe a genny, but not for now.

You need a quality mains charger suitably sized amps for your intended bank. Also carries 12V loads so batteries not depleted while plugged into shore power.

In the USian RV industry AKA a "converter", but the marine industry makes better quality stuff IMO.

If you have AC powered devices essential and efficient enough to run off the 12V bank off grid, that's when you need an inverter, produces mains power from DC.
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Old 05-18-2018, 08:47 PM   #17
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Sorry for late reply work really gets in the way of a lot. So I am going to run mots things off 12V lights water pump etc. I as said before also want some big appliances do I need a big 4000W inverter for that or because it will be 110 I don't? Sorry for all the questions just really trying to wrap my head around all this stuff. Outlets rand off 12V or 110?? Thank You guys!
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Old 05-18-2018, 08:54 PM   #18
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Sorry for late reply work really gets in the way of a lot. So I am going to run mots things off 12V lights water pump etc. I as said before also want some big appliances do I need a big 4000W inverter for that or because it will be 110 I don't? Sorry for all the questions just really trying to wrap my head around all this stuff. Outlets rand off 12V or 110?? Thank You guys!
You run a power audit.

You work out which appliances will be running at the same time and add up their wattage demands.

Your inverter needs to cope with that, plus a little headroom. You might use those calculations to decide what you can minimize, or whether or not you need to run the generator to cope with peak load.

Also, for off-grid, you need to make sure your battery bank is of sufficient size to deliver the power to the inverter without damaging the batteries.
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Old 05-18-2018, 11:03 PM   #19
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i did it that way. my rig is 12 volt except for the stove, water heater and AC, the computer and tvs.

start off with a converter/charger and a 12v battery for your house power.
my lights, fridge, water pump run off the 12v converter when plugged in and the battery when off power.

the computer and tvs run fine off a little 300w inverter from the battery.

the stove, water heater and AC is reserved for the generator or shore power.

an inverter big enough to run my stove is past the wiring limitations and discharge rates of batteries. so for me, a $30 inverter works fine to power the tv and computer.

the converter i started with was a good one i thought, but years of using i have come to learn that it doesn't charge my batteries properly. so look to match the charging property of your converter/charger with the type of battery you buy.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:43 AM   #20
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Sorry for late reply work really gets in the way of a lot. So I am going to run mots things off 12V lights water pump etc. I as said before also want some big appliances do I need a big 4000W inverter for that or because it will be 110 I don't? Sorry for all the questions just really trying to wrap my head around all this stuff. Outlets rand off 12V or 110?? Thank You guys!
Do not use electricity for cooking or any heating while off the grid.

That wastes too much energy, no matter tge voltage.

With a big battery bank, a small microwave running just a minute or two is doable, but still a big draw.

Make sure you know how you will get the energy back into the bank before to commit to taking it out.
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