I think the parts list you have picked out all up the right alley, but I would suggest some changes.
Inverter:
The one you have picked out looks like a standard run of the mill highfrequency inverter.
It says so right here in the product description.
The PCB thickness is 2.00mm, allow the stronger current floating on the circuit, increase the load capacity. High frequency transformer to transfer DC to AC, ensure the stable and full AC output
These tend to be over-rated so if you actually expect 3KW AC power out of the inverter it will live a short life.
What I had suggested when we were talking was to look for a LOW FREQUENCY inverter.
My experience with the low frequency inverters is that they tend to be rated pretty close to their continuous duty power potential, and are more robust in general
Their drawbacks include :
Weight, the Low Frequency inverter weights double to triple the more compact high frequency unit.
Standby efficiency. The unit I'm about to suggest draws 50W on standby. To some people this may be an unacceptably high parasitic power draw. High frequency units also draw standby power, but it is typically less around 15-40w.
What the impact of this is that if you go to sleep at 8pm, and get up at 6am, during those 10 hours where your inverter has been on you will have consumed 500W of power from your battery pack just to have the inverter on.
What I do is typically I shut off the inverter if Im not using A/C power, since most of my other devices like lights and fans are D/C powered, and that is on always.
My suggestion, especially since you're planning to run one ( and later possibly two ) Airconditioning units would be to go with a LF inverter. I suspect that the HF unit that you sent a link too would manage one AC unit but It would either struggle with two or it would work for a while ( few days to maybe a year at most ) but then die.
Here is an example of a Low frequency inverter. Similar to what I use, successfully with AirCon and induction electric cooking.
https://www.amazon.com/9000watts-Inv...2-catcorr&th=1
What I would love to suggest to you, and to buy myself for my next setup is a unit like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Char...al&sr=1-1&th=1
6000W split phase. it is pricey though....
CHARGE CONTROLER:
The unit I had suggested was an EPever Tracer MPPT 100V 40A unit.
The one you found isn't identical but is MPPT, so that's great.
Im not sure if the link you sent directed me to the correct item from the little drop down menu in Amazon. But you need to make sure you select one with
a high enough
input voltage, and as high an
output amp rating as you can afford$$ For example, your batteries you selected are 200AH. So a 20A solar charge controller would need 10 hours to recharge them. This is not ideal because peak solar power does not exist for 10 hours a day. Additionally, like with any electrical component, running it at max output every day is likely to reduce it's reliability. I would spec a 40A minumum, with a 60 or 70 being even better.
So like this one, same brand just higher rating
(
https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Smart...861616475&th=1)
Panels.
I like the panels you chose. I will mention that you can find panels cheaper than what you have there ( 280$ a panel ). If you have the time look around on the used market or classifides for left over panels froma home residential install, or mismatched panels from a warehouse. Call some solar company installers and ask if they have any "scrach and dent" or " mismatched" panels available. Often they will. I got 330W panels, with some scratched glass, for 160$ each. If you do not have the time to hunt for deals, then order the ones you listed. They are fine.
We do need to buy the right amount though.
For example, those panels have a Open circuit voltage of 45.1V. This is from the data sheet. 5 panels connected in series, would create 221V. This is beyond the acceptable range of your solar charge controler and would damage it. So you can not connect 5 panels in series. If you want the power output of 5 panels, ( 1750W ) you would need to connect them in paralel. Probably in two sets, I.e two in series, for a voltage of 90V, and then a second set next to them wired in parallel.
In this case buying an odd number of panels is not going to work.
I like the ones you have, but I would say buy 4.
You may be surprised with how much power you get out of them, even 1400W from 4 panels is very respectable power output.
Batteries.
for a 24V system two of those in series is a good option. You mentioned wanting to expand power storage in the future, so you could buy two more in the future to double your capacity.
An odd number of batteries, doesn't make sense as the voltages need to add up to 24V
In an ideal world you buy 4 6V batteries, but a properly designed system, where wire resistances are properly established, and where the charging cable is configured correctly, can use parallel batteries just fine.
Read this link for a discussion of chargers and parralel v.s series connections. As well as a few " what not to do" senarios.
https://www.nyc-arecs.org/batt1.pdf
Miscellaneous stuff not in your shopping list.
Solar pannel conectors, with 4 pannels you will need a variety of connectors to wire all this. Solar panels use their own special plugs, not available in most electrical isels at the store.
These are the plugs, I don't know how many you may need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H1M8ASE..._21v3Db5M70M7V
And this is the double gang connector you would use to pass the cable down through your roof. You would need two of these, if you wire the two sets in parallel like I'd mentioned earlier.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDH2TTV..._01v3DbMPQV3BG
Brackets to mount the solar panels
I used these, minimum 4 per panel. Drilled through the roof with 1/4 X 20 bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You may have some DIY bracket solution, but I was satisfied with these.
Circuit breakers / fuses
We will discuss the exact locations and key rating of the fusing once you can get me a list of your anticipated devices and their wattage ratings.
But expect to buy between 2 and 4 of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a smaller fuse box sort of like this for distributing the power.
https://www.amazon.com/WUPP-Blade-Wa...motive&sr=1-10
Wire
We will talk about wire. The battery wire will be the greatest cost as it will be the largest guage. Placing the inverter and the batterys as close together as possible will be reuce the cost of the wire.
Keep in mind placing your batteries outside the living space is a good safety move to prevent possible gasses, fire, from hurting you in the event of a battery faliure.
Not listed, Propane generator?
I have done a few solar setups for folks and the most common problem is simply having all your eggs in one basket. Consider a generator like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Sportsman-GEN...A9SAA3ACRT03N1
Having a generator would mean you could get away with smaller batteries, and less panels...
The propane ones are not stinky and run cleaner than gasoline.
I you want to get fancy you can get one with automatic starting that would kick in whenever your battery voltages get too low. But you could retrofit any generator to do that with some fairly basic microcontroler and a DIY electric start.
With florida, a 35-40ft bus, and the desire to have a dog survive inside, you need reliable power for that A/C unit. One Unit will keep your dog alive but still struggle to actually cool it down inside. Two units would do the job, but your talking 2KW power consumption on those alone.
If it were my dog I would also consider passive ways that the dog could stay cool, like a 40 gallon water tank under your bed or something where the dog could hang out next to it and stay cool even if the A/C went out...
TLDR:
Panels, good choice, buy 4, dont buy 5.
Solar charge controler, good choice, make sure to buy the right one from that drop down menu.
Batteries, good choice, buy em, don't buy 3, buy 2 and then buy more later if desired.
Inverter, Would work for now, but in my option bad choice over the long term with your goals. Look for a LOW FREQUENCY unit. 3000W mimum if you want to run dual AirCon units.
Miscellaneous stuff isn't in your budget yet and I would guess that between breakers(80-150), electrical junction box (50-150), wire ( 100-400, depends a lot on your layout ) and various connectors and terminals ( 150-250 ) you still have anywhere from 380 -950 $ of expenses not accounted for.
I'll check in with you or you have my cell if you want to follow up.
Anyone else please feel free to chime in with your suggestions.