Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-20-2018, 01:00 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
onenationundergoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Statesville, North Carolina
Posts: 463
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: International Navistar DT360
Rated Cap: 60
Remodeling Electrical Design

Currently (been in use full time for the past four years) our electrical system consists of a heavy duty extension cord that was chopped up with three surge protectors wired into it with wire nuts. The end of the cord is either plugged into a household outlet, a generator, or an inverter. Before everyone freaks out we never plug any high powered things into it and are conscious of how many things are plugged in at once. Generally it will power a fan, some phone chargers, some lights, and a laptop.

We're wanting to make a better, safer system that we could use to power a space heater or electric teakettle on any of the outlets. I'd also like to have a separate DC system that powers just the lights and one DC plug receptacle for a 12v heated blanket that i use on the bed. This DC system will always be wired straight to the solar batteries and does not need to have any kind of 120v-12v converter because our solar batteries are always charged.

Does anyone have experience with In-Sure push in type connectors? Would they be safer to use than wire nuts? It says they can accommodate stranded 12-gauge wire, which is what I believe I would be using if I would like to make 20-amp outlets.

How different is what I am wanting from what I've got as far as planning? Electrical things are very difficult for me to wrap my mind around still, especially concerning grounding, even though I have done many many hours of research about it. Do I need a separate breaker box, or can I just use the receptacles that have built-in breakers?
__________________
My build thread:http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/build-thread-for-haulin-oats-and-goats-11237.html#post113500
A gal, a guy, three cats, two dogs, one rabbit, and one goat, traveling the country together.
onenationundergoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2018, 01:55 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,693
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
Your main power cord with surge protection need not be.
Surge protection is mostly for electronics, your flat screens, computers etc and can be done right at each receptacle fairly inexpensively.
So replace your main power cord so it has no joints at all firstly.


20 amp receptacles in your vehicle? Unheard of even if #12 wire is run to the outlets. Use 15 amp breakers only for any receptacle in your house or vehicle. No appliance will draw more power than that provides, the whole appliance industry is specifically designed for those specs.


Those InSure connectors are expensive man. Never seen one or used one but wonder if you can disconnect wires after using or do they become scrap?
Wire nuts are a proven commodity and unbeatable, but you have to know how to know how to make joints properly for them to be effective. Amateurs do not know this and that makes for loose connections, bare wires,showing,which builds heat leading to fires. Knowing which wire nut to use depends on conductor sizes and quantity but are the safest bet by far. They have to be twisted as tight as you can with linesman pliers, not just twisted on tight with fingers. Then a wrap or two of electrical tape wound tightly in the same direction as the wirenut itself is tightened. That will never loosen on its own.

I shudder at all these folks doing there own wiring knowing what onee would find if an inspection was done.

This is just another reason insurance companies refuse to insure these vehiclles, not that mfg RV's are wired any better. they are not for the money you spend for them.


My 2 cents


John
__________________
Question everything!
BlackJohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2018, 02:15 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 18,032
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by onenationundergoat View Post
Currently (been in use full time for the past four years) our electrical system consists of a heavy duty extension cord that was chopped up with three surge protectors wired into it with wire nuts. The end of the cord is either plugged into a household outlet, a generator, or an inverter. Before everyone freaks out we never plug any high powered things into it and are conscious of how many things are plugged in at once. Generally it will power a fan, some phone chargers, some lights, and a laptop.

We're wanting to make a better, safer system that we could use to power a space heater or electric teakettle on any of the outlets. I'd also like to have a separate DC system that powers just the lights and one DC plug receptacle for a 12v heated blanket that i use on the bed. This DC system will always be wired straight to the solar batteries and does not need to have any kind of 120v-12v converter because our solar batteries are always charged.

Does anyone have experience with In-Sure push in type connectors? Would they be safer to use than wire nuts? It says they can accommodate stranded 12-gauge wire, which is what I believe I would be using if I would like to make 20-amp outlets.

How different is what I am wanting from what I've got as far as planning? Electrical things are very difficult for me to wrap my mind around still, especially concerning grounding, even though I have done many many hours of research about it. Do I need a separate breaker box, or can I just use the receptacles that have built-in breakers?
I know nothing much about electricity.
But I swear I was out at John's today and I thought of you and Dan!
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2018, 02:27 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
onenationundergoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Statesville, North Carolina
Posts: 463
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: International Navistar DT360
Rated Cap: 60
We're still rollin'! Haven't been down to Florida in a couple years though. Can't say I miss that state very much! Hope all y'all are doin great!
__________________
My build thread:http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/build-thread-for-haulin-oats-and-goats-11237.html#post113500
A gal, a guy, three cats, two dogs, one rabbit, and one goat, traveling the country together.
onenationundergoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2018, 02:41 PM   #5
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 18,032
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by onenationundergoat View Post
We're still rollin'! Haven't been down to Florida in a couple years though. Can't say I miss that state very much! Hope all y'all are doin great!
Its great down here!! lol

Even got medical cannabis now!
Still working seasonally out in Cali?
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2018, 04:15 PM   #6
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 6
Personally, I'd wire it like any standard 30A RV. Main 30A wire into a small breaker box. 2-3 circuits out of breaker box to outlets/lights/etc. I would stick with the wiring nuts, they are cheap and work well. Basic 120V wiring is pretty easy, there are many good videos online explaining how to do it properly, and sadly, just as many videos that show hack jobs. Im sure if you are uncomfortable with it, you can hire an electrician that could get you up and running in less than a day if your keeping everything simple.
Tlauden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2018, 10:32 PM   #7
Skoolie
 
T-Bolt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Lafayette, Indiana
Posts: 175
Year: 2003
Engine: DT530
Rated Cap: 84
You should never have a spliced cord. All connections must be in an approved box. Like it has been said, replace the cord. I have never used In-sure brand connectors but I do use a similar product from Wago. Push in connectors hands down are better for the novice because you can't screw it up. No matter what they say do not use stranded wire with them. They can be removed from solid copper by twisting them back and forth while pulling on it.
T-Bolt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.