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Old 08-21-2017, 12:38 PM   #81
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With a 20 in lift and a 5 foot wife i can afford a thick ceiling

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Old 08-21-2017, 02:09 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by mmoore6856 View Post
With a 20 in lift and a 5 foot wife i can afford a thick ceiling
You RVing in Alberta in Feb? If I were 5ft, I wouldn't bothering lifting but 6'2" in 6'2" doesn't work for me.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:00 PM   #83
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Im going to run ac on batteries so i need it to run as little as possible to be efficient thats what this thread is about ac not heat
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:40 AM   #84
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Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Im going to run ac on batteries so i need it to run as little as possible to be efficient thats what this thread is about ac not heat
It's "simple" physics. The temperature doesn't matter; insulation is insulation and works both ways. A 50° delta from inside to outside. 117° to 67° inside. Or in the case of Alberta, an 80° delta, -20° outside to 60° inside. It'll be tricky to find an 80° delta in the heat (hopefully).
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:49 AM   #85
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think ice chest the better the insulation the longer the ice lasts and I done enough cold ill be warm for Xmas
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:16 PM   #86
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Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Originally Posted by mmoore6856 View Post
think ice chest the better the insulation the longer the ice lasts and I done enough cold ill be warm for Xmas
Same as a thermos. Throw a flare in that ice box and it'll stay warm.

I can put another jacket on. I want to see you remove skin. If I have to pick 100°, I'd rather it be -100°.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:30 PM   #87
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I dont want to look like a south park kid waddling around lol
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:45 PM   #88
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Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
And I REALLY hate swamp balls.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:49 PM   #89
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heat is Much easier to obtain without lots of electricity... Fuel for some type of fire is easy.. so if you get it insukated to where you are able to cool on batteries / solar. then you'll likel;y be able to heat it pretty easily..

I wouldnt attempt using the heat pump function of a mini split except on the mildest days of chill.. the heat function uses more electricity and has the compressor run map higher average than the cooling run map.. at least on my 3 splits thats the case..
-Christopher
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:08 PM   #90
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Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Wood stoves will run you out of a house. Heating a bus with one might be tricky because of that. Too much heat. Throttle the air WAY back.
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:02 PM   #91
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Had a small furnace in my truck that heated my sleeper worked to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit i ran the engine below that to prevent gelling as i was in a lot of 15 to 20 below it ran off diesel about 1 cup a hour worked good even tho sleepers have poor insulation
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:12 PM   #92
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Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Nice. I need to start watching CL and the like for gennies, heaters, chairs, etc.
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Old 08-24-2017, 12:40 PM   #93
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Due to it being a Ductless Wall Mounted does that effect the circulation of Air/Heat???
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