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Old 12-02-2017, 02:58 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 54
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L Cummings ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
And I like your bus. I think it is a TC1000, according to Wikipedia. I love the emergency door behind the driver's seat, and the greater clearance underneath with taller tires, compared to mine. This was the bus that got me into buses. The one I wanted was $6000, and sold. I saw another for $10,000 on craigslist. I heckled the guy and sent him links to newer similar-sized buses all over the country at half the price, but he was like "too bad: it's $10,000 because it is here, not there." Didn't make sense to me.

Nice you have a Cummings. The two I saw had Cats.
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Old 12-02-2017, 03:29 PM   #12
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 635
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner
Engine: Cummins 8.3L
Rated Cap: 48 Coach Seats
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Originally Posted by Mountain Gnome View Post
And I like your bus. I think it is a TC1000, according to Wikipedia. I love the emergency door behind the driver's seat, and the greater clearance underneath with taller tires, compared to mine. This was the bus that got me into buses. The one I wanted was $6000, and sold. I saw another for $10,000 on craigslist. I heckled the guy and sent him links to newer similar-sized buses all over the country at half the price, but he was like "too bad: it's $10,000 because it is here, not there." Didn't make sense to me.

Nice you have a Cummings. The two I saw had Cats.
To the price of a local bus you have to add $500 for every 1000 miles it is away from you. That's the rough cost of getting it home.

That's probably what he meant, but it sounds like even doing that he was too high. It's also why you will likely lose an auction to a local bidder ... they can afford to go higher and still get a good price.
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Old 12-02-2017, 03:51 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 45
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 L Cummins Turbo
Rated Cap: 28
Thank you all for the info. It gives me a bit of an understanding and a place to start as I am not sure I can find anyone to work on the bus electronics. I searched everywhere for a schematic of the electrical system to no avail and was told they are all slightly different anyway. I will just use the programming method of trying to do one step at a time and carefully marking the wires as I go. I think my ignition just has accessory and start (not 3 positions like my car) and accessory sets the low air alarm for the brakes and door alarms if open, so is not a user friendly position for running lights.
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Old 12-02-2017, 03:57 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 45
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 L Cummins Turbo
Rated Cap: 28
Yes lights work when engine is running, only seem to have 2 positions on my ignition and lights won't work in accessory position, though sadly all the alarms do. My bus seems to be extra kid proofed with air brake bleeds, battery turn off, and nothing that can run when bus not running. Will try the advice about tracing the solenoid wires. Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:36 PM   #15
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 924
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
On my bus, I have the IH installed factory systems - the headlights, turn signals, gauges and such. The Bluebird installed turn signals, brake lights and such usually run off the IH provided wiring harness. My marker and clearance lights run off a separate switch on the BB control panel, as I expect the interior lights would (I'd have to check to make sure). There's a large relay in the BB control panel that turns on with the ignition switch and most of the BB installed items do nothing without that relay engaged.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:24 AM   #16
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,956
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by druidwood View Post
I had read that one of the electrical panels (thing that wires connect to) was for things that need the bus to be running and other for things that don't require it, however nothing works on my bus without it running. SO does one need to add a new panel and connect it directly to the battery in order to get say the overhead lights to work with the engine off? I have two, huge batteries and with LED lights assume I could run the lights a lot without impacting the batteries. Thanks.
I'm installing my LED lights and needed to energize that circuit without leaving the key on also. My lights are split in 2 circuits. All the lights on the roof- 5 in front, 5 in back and 2 side markers are run off of 1 circuit in my bus. The lower half of the bus is lit on another circuit. The redundancy is for safety- if one blows a fuse, the other still is lit and keeps you visible.

So I just back-fed one of the lights +12V and it lights-up the entire circuit without buzzers and key. I like the idea of being able to do this with a switch, but the ability to accidentally drain the batteries is real. Something like Priority Start ! would prevent dead battery ruining your trip. ~$100

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Old 12-04-2017, 01:33 PM   #17
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: MD near DC
Posts: 837
That's an interesting looking piece of kit! Have you had personal experience with it?
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:21 PM   #18
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 4,926
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 1000
Engine: 5.9
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I have the harbor freight version of a battery booster which serves as my house battery for my water pump or whatever needs 12v power. Much safer than sipping power from the start batteries.
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