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Old 09-01-2015, 11:29 PM   #61
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Looking at my power usage
1040w microwave (10a)
Fridgfd (maybe 6a)
Kettle 10a
Slow cooker & steamer & coffee maker - unknown.
I'm highly unlikely to want to use more than 2 appliances simultaneously.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:32 PM   #62
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Heating appliances and air conditioners are the heavy current draws.
Lights and entertainment devices not so much.

Since you are likely to want to have two cooking devices on at once, you may just want to set up a 30-amp shoreline and be done with it.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:47 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbear View Post
Heating appliances and air conditioners are the heavy current draws.
Lights and entertainment devices not so much.

Since you are likely to want to have two cooking devices on at once, you may just want to set up a 30-amp shoreline and be done with it.
Yup. Wiring for 30+30, fusing for 15+15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephod_beeblebrox2 View Post
Looking at my power usage
1040w microwave (10a)
Fridgfd (maybe 6a)
Kettle 10a
Slow cooker & steamer & coffee maker - unknown.
I'm highly unlikely to want to use more than 2 appliances simultaneously.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:58 AM   #64
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thanks redbear for correction
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:23 AM   #65
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One quick note when sizing your system...take the "start-up" amp draw into account for things like fridges & a/c's. They are typically several times what the running amps are. This true for both supply and wiring according to an electrician buddy.
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:33 PM   #66
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The start up of my potential fridge is 5.6a, apparently. I think that is ridiculous. At 120v, that's 672W. That's one of those haier things. At that rate, I might be far better off with a Peltier cooler. Incidentally, if you use 13 Peltier elements, you can get -50 centigrade!
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:36 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephod_beeblebrox2 View Post
The start up of my potential fridge is 5.6a, apparently. I think that is ridiculous. At 120v, that's 672W. That's one of those haier things. At that rate, I might be far better off with a Peltier cooler. Incidentally, if you use 13 Peltier elements, you can get -50 centigrade!
High start-up current is common with motors. Some small refrigerators are work on a heat cycle instead; they're essentially an electric-only version of the RV propane fridge. Those wouldn't have high start-up current.

And yes, a stack of thermoelectric/peltier elements can get cold...... so long as you have a few kW available to power them, and don't need to chill anything more massive than a single raindrop or snowflake. For all the power they take in, they don't move very much power (heat) from the one side to the other.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:56 PM   #68
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maybe glue them all over the inside metal roof of the bus
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:33 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Zephod_beeblebrox2 View Post
One breaker feeds the left side of the sub panel. The other feeds the right side. The cable for each side is 30A.

Advantage... When I'm on a 30A circuit, both breakers in the mini box can be on. On a 15A circuit, I turn one off and just have two active sockets.
When you plug into 30 amp shore power your system up to the individual breakers will be protected by a 30 amp SP breaker as long as you use 10 gauge wire up to the box. When you plug into 15 amp SP you will be limited to 15 amps by the breaker at the SP panel. Thus, the weak spot in your system, your 15 amp rated extension cord, will be protected at the SP panel. No need for your second breaker box. Just be sure you run 10 gauge wire from the outside bus receptacle to the breaker box. As stated before, you don't need a main breaker in your bus breaker panel, just connect your incoming hot wire to one lug and jumper from it to the second.


Here's a 30A inlet receptacle similar to what you'll see on most newer RVs these days

30 Amp 125V Boat Power Inlet

Here's a good quality 30A power cord that will make a water tight seal to the Marinco receptacle

Marinco 30 Amp Shore Power Cordset

You can build your own cords but the price is almost what a manufactured cord will cost and you still have to find a good way to weather seal the connectors to the wire. These cords can be found used on eBay considerably cheaper than the new price.

Here's the correct way to wire 15A or 20A outlets

Wire An Outlet
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:52 PM   #70
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Excellent info...thanks Roach!
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