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Old 09-02-2015, 08:11 PM   #71
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Wow! I just looked for male wall socket s. Damn! A $6 piece if plastic and metal that's decidedly low tech going for $70. Can you say rip off?

I can see that my cables are most likely going to be inline sockets hidden behind an access panel. Just plug extension cables in!
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:52 PM   #72
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Yeah, the power inlet sockets are kind of outrageous. Especially the marine style. Here are a few that are more down-to-earth:
Reliance Controls PB31 for $49
Legrand L620 for $17, but it's just 20A and only 3-pole, so 120V with ground and neutral
Hubbell HBL2616 30A for $24 again 3-pole, 120 volt

but.. if the shore power cord has to be removable, there isn't anything wrong with having a short pigtail in the bus with a male cord end so that you can plug it to the female end of a shore power extension cable. With that, or with any of the other inlets as well, a proper transfer switch would be needed "some day" when an inverter finds its way into the bus to prevent the male terminals being energized when the inverter is turned on, or the inverter being turned on while the shore power is plugged in.
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:54 PM   #73
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I was thinking that if I put some foirm of self contained power source, the pigtails coulkd becvome useful.
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Old 09-03-2015, 12:43 AM   #74
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Home made cords just increase the risk of something being wired wrong by the individual that does not understand North American wiring standards.

Please for the sake of everyone, just buy the right stuff.

Nat
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Old 09-03-2015, 03:45 AM   #75
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As someone who has halfassed a lot of things in life (including electric projects) I have come to learn a couple of things via first hand experience.

On a project the size of a bus buy the best things you can as you don't need much of it.

When it comes to electrical stuff oversize the wire and conduit sure it will cost more but make it so much easier to deal with later.

Try really really really hard not to have exposed live male adapters (more a problem in computers, thanks 3 pin fan connections).

Some times the exact thing you need is made, but only 10 other crazy people in the world buy one on any given day, therefore it is rare and rare things cost an absurd amount of money. Simply be happy you have a rare plug, it makes you special.

Other times the thing you need isn't made so you have to make it yourself. Don't cut corners when you do. It won't be easy, there is a reason they don't make what you are trying to make.

Also as long as you stick to one standard you will be just fine. If you use inches always use inches, if you always use centimeters... same goes for wiring if you use north american std then don't try to add other standards.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD LABLE IN SHARPIE OR PAINT PEN!
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:59 AM   #76
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And when you label, label everything.

This means that the breaker gets a label of which items it protects frim surge and the item gets a label of which breaker its connected to.

If you have more than one panel, label the source and feed of the panels so in an emergency you know exactly which panel breaker to open.

That's what we do in many buildings we manage and it make everything easier...
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:39 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainInsaneo View Post
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD LABLE IN SHARPIE OR PAINT PEN!
Or even better, get a P-touch style label maker.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:24 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephod_beeblebrox2 View Post
The start up of my potential fridge is 5.6a, apparently. I think that is ridiculous. At 120v, that's 672W. That's one of those haier things. At that rate, I might be far better off with a Peltier cooler. Incidentally, if you use 13 Peltier elements, you can get -50 centigrade!
If you piggyback 13 thermoelectric units (which would draw 65 amps @ 12v, or 780w) you could get -50c on the surface, but that wouldn't be enough to bring even a cooler down anywhere near that cold. Maybe 13 piggybacked units times 13 could bring a cooler close to that cold... And would draw 845 amps @12v (10000 watts) constantly!

A have a small compressor driven refrigerator that has a spike on startup, but levels out at around 5amps for its entire run and can bring the contents down to - 20c. I wouldn't even consider the thermoelectric units. They are Way too inefficient.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:11 AM   #79
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:24 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephod_beeblebrox2 View Post
Wow! I just looked for male wall socket s. Damn! A $6 piece if plastic and metal that's decidedly low tech going for $70. Can you say rip off?

I can see that my cables are most likely going to be inline sockets hidden behind an access panel. Just plug extension cables in!
It appears that you're mounting all your outlets in one spot. If that's the case I can save you a lot of money. Just buy a 12 ga. 15A extension cord and a multi-outlet power strip like the ones people have under their desks at work. When you get to the campground, run the extension out the window and plug in your power strip. Walla! you have breaker protected, multi-outlet power at a fraction of the cost. Even better, you can move the power strip to the appliance instead of running those kludgy extension cords all over the place.
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