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Old 02-25-2019, 11:02 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Smile Solar and Electrical Plan and Diagrams, Looking for Opinions and Advice

Hello everyone! Working on my build currently and I'm in the process of finalizing my solar setup and getting all of my wiring run for lighting and everything else in the bus.

I put together a PDF detailing everything I am putting in my system and wire runs, wiring gauges wiring diagrams etc and wanted to get some opinions on it.

I'm looking for advice on my wire runs mostly, I have done the calculations and have the gauge I think I need written with each circuit diagram, but looking for some experienced builders to confirm my thoughts.

The questions page was for an engineer friend I sent this too, but if you want to add your info on any questions or part of the system I am all ears!

Figured I would put this up in case anyone wants to see the items I'm planning on using for info or inspiration as well as the way I'm thinking about doing my wiring!

Thanks everyone!
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:04 AM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Seems like the PDF never went up, it is attached
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Bus Complete Overview.pdf (261.4 KB, 108 views)
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:04 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
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I always recommend using 12 ga wire instead of 14ga. For 120vac circuits. Then you can go up to a 20 amp breaker as needed. Or stay with the 15 amp breaker if you want.

I found it best to “tin” the ends of stranded wire before putting it under a screw at the connection points.

I found SO cord is very hard to make pulls with as the outer layer is rubber and very grippy.

Bill
Indiana
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:09 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Thanks Bill, I hear you on the 12 ga for the outlets I was tossed between the two so I think I'll look at doing it as 12 instead for sure.

Good sense on the tinning at the connections for corrosion etc, I'm soaking up all the advice I can get before I get started. I'm looking forward to the process of getting all these runs done and connections made, good practice for me

Cheers,
Scott
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:03 AM   #5
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Howdy scloughcarroll,

You probably know all of this and have a plan but thought it might be worth mentioning anyway.

It is RV standard to have the wet bay on the driver side of the rig. That's how camp and dump sites are setup. That often means that most of the plumbing is on the driver side (fresh input, dump valve, etc.). That is not required, of course, but has proven to work quite well. Assuming you are planning a typical RV toilet - it needs to drop nearly straight down to the holding tank. Most often, that is best accomplished on the driver side (but not a requirement or always true) to keep the solids 'mostly' nearest the dump valve. Again, not required but think it thru if doing something different.

Is the exterior LED lighting the chassis driving lights or are these additional lights driven off the house system?

I don't see mention of air conditioning or roof vents (with fans). I highly recommend something on the roof to let the hot air out. Fan-Tastic vent/fans are not cheap but work very well.

Finally, I'd suggesting installing a bunch of 12VDC outlets. Since you mention solar, I assume you plan boondocking. You are saving power any time you can avoid running power thru an inverter (conversion losses). What type of outlet is up to you. I installed a few old style cigarette lighter outlets but mostly these smaller sockets.
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Old 02-27-2019, 11:32 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
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Thanks JDOnTheGo! Good point on the setup common on RV's and all the associated hookups, dump spots etc, I've got a grey tank mounted drivers side so my dump valve for grey is good, didn't actually plan that but hey its a win. Water hookup is going to be special, it's on the passenger side but that will be ok with a little hose.

No black tank here we are going composting toilet for it.

I hear you on ventilation, I actually just put it a fantastic fan over the kitchen yesterday, and the shower and bathroom will be vented out the side with some 12v inline fans.

Air con too, 9000 BTU mini split mounted right over the driver's seat so it's blowing straight into the main living area. I want to have it run from a generator, my solar setup is not designed for an air conditioner drawing haha I am planning to add an alternator to my engine dedicated to charging the batteries while driving and running air con while on the move I think, got this in the works.

All the exterior lighting is aftermarket, LED Offroad style pod and floodlights and some nice downward facing LED bars for over the front door and the engine bay, I've got links to all the light and appliances etc in the PDF

I've gotta get a proper thread going with my bus pics and everything I've done so far, I spend to much time creeping learning on here and not enough time posting!
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Old 03-04-2019, 11:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOnTheGo View Post
Howdy scloughcarroll,

You probably know all of this and have a plan but thought it might be worth mentioning anyway.

It is RV standard to have the wet bay on the driver side of the rig. That's how camp and dump sites are setup. That often means that most of the plumbing is on the driver side (fresh input, dump valve, etc.). That is not required, of course, but has proven to work quite well. Assuming you are planning a typical RV toilet - it needs to drop nearly straight down to the holding tank. Most often, that is best accomplished on the driver side (but not a requirement or always true) to keep the solids 'mostly' nearest the dump valve. Again, not required but think it thru if doing something different.

Is the exterior LED lighting the chassis driving lights or are these additional lights driven off the house system?

I don't see mention of air conditioning or roof vents (with fans). I highly recommend something on the roof to let the hot air out. Fan-Tastic vent/fans are not cheap but work very well.

Finally, I'd suggesting installing a bunch of 12VDC outlets. Since you mention solar, I assume you plan boondocking. You are saving power any time you can avoid running power thru an inverter (conversion losses). What type of outlet is up to you. I installed a few old style cigarette lighter outlets but mostly these smaller sockets.
ALL OF THIS! After driving over 20000 miles in our conversion in 2018 we learned a lot. Like put the water fill and gray dump on the drivers side and put 12 outlets everywhere. Such good advice and we love our fantastic fan!
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Old 03-05-2019, 02:34 PM   #8
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Thanks!

Thanks zelseman

Good to hear from some well-travelled folks

I updated the PDF now with a couple of changes, mainly just the addition of some USB 12V outlets, 2 double in the back and 2 double in the front at our desk.

I'm keeping a good amount of 120V mainly because I charge a lot of sensitive electronics, camera batteries, Laptops, Drone and gimbal batteries ETC for work that requires the 110. I've got a very efficient inverter ordered for it.

Other then the outlet's everything is 12 volt, lighting, fans, fridge etc and no heavy drain items hooked to solar (heater, Air con etc) and after hearing your guys comments I have added 8 USB outlets for cellphones and other small charge items that don't need the 120

Ordered out panels the other day! 8 of the 100-watt renolgy, going to be rigged in 2 arrays on the roof in the front very excited!

any thoughts on the wiring gauges, fusing etc from anyone?

I have updated the PDF now with wire types and gauges, and also all the google linked in it are for the various items and if you click them you will go to the webpage if anyone wants to know what I'm using or use it themselves ! Same for wire etc
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Old 03-05-2019, 02:37 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
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Engine: DT 408 6.7L
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Forgot the PDF again! Here is the updated version, its got links for everything, and contains all of the appliances, wiring etc

Anyone with input on the wiring, wire size and fusing etc would be great! I've got links for the wire type (Auto Primary) and gauges etc from where I'm gonna buy it, also full layout and description of all items fans, vents, etc

Greywater etc is not on here, its on the driver's side and already installed, plumbing diagram still coming, the wiring is going into the roof first so completing it then framing in my couple walls and completing the fresh plumbing
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Bus Complete Overview.pdf (327.4 KB, 26 views)
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:21 PM   #10
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Best practice between solid and stranded core is to go one size larger with stranded than solid due to the nature of stranded being able to handle fewer amps in the same gauge.

As others have mentioned, go with 12g for 110vac 15amp service on solid and 10g 110vac for the same 15amp service. Also, because stranded is more susceptive to corrosion, make sure you coat connections with dialectic grease for longevity.

110vac lights should be no more than 10amps and outlets should be 10-15 amps, unless you have a requirement to go with 20amp service for outlets. I have one circuit for each appliance that requires 110vac, two circuits for lights (in case one blows) and two circuits for misc 110vac outlets (one on each side of the bus).

My preference is to run as much as possible off of DC, but some AC is still needed. As for DC circuits, I would run similar circuits.

If you have outside circuits, make sure they are on their own circuit.

My main reason for all of these circuits is so that an outage on one will not impact the others. For lights, it's always challenging working on a circuit in the dark, so having another circuit to power half the lights comes in handy when repairs/maintenance is needed. Likewise, you don't want lights on the same circuits as other things that might blow a fuse or trip the breaker.

While none of these things are requires, it is recommended and best practice.
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