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Old 03-17-2019, 02:11 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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Year: 2007
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Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 16
Turn signals and flashers

I have a 2007 IC CE300 and have a relay or auto-reset fuse issue most likely. But then again it might be a flasher system issue - but with it unplugged as described below, I doubt it.

The idea is to tie the amber flashers into additional turn signals all around and the rear red flashers into additional brake lights.

I found and traced all wires back to the chassis electrical and disconnected the flasher plug. I then tied in the flashers to the turn signal wires through a pig-tail jumper (2 to 1) to get both the front and rear flashers.

Under ďnormalĒ operation - this is how it worked when I got the bus - if the key is off and the turn signal lever is on, only the blinker on the hood works and thereís no click-click-click sound from the blinker blinker relay (perhaps some blinker fluid for that problem ).

Hereís the real problem - with the key on: if I tie one flasher into the turn signal, it works for a few minutes then stops all blinking except for the hood light and the blinker relay does the typical click-click-click. If I turn it all off for a few seconds - maybe 15-30, it all works again then repeat.

If I plug both the front and rear flashers in at the same time, no blinkers work except for the ones on the hood.

I would like to remove the child safety function so it doesnít have the alarm (horn honking until I turn the key to acc and open the door in the back) so thereís that too.

But really at this time Iím looking for ideas, locations of auto-reset fuses, relays that might be having a hard time with an additional light.

Note that this didnít seem to be a problem when I have my trailer/Jeep plugged in to the lights in the rear.
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:19 PM   #2
Skoolie
 
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Additional information:

The flasher bulbs are halogen and the blinker bulbs are standard incandescent. I have new LED lights on order, tried replacing the bulbs with LEDs but the halogens have a different connector type.
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:54 PM   #3
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OK, so here's the thing. Your typical 1157 type bulbs have a wattage somewhere around 10-12 watts on the "bright" side. You've got one on the hood, and 1-3 on the body (my bus has one next to the headlight, one large round yellow on the front below the windshield, one side mounted, and one rear mounted, for a total of 4 per side.) Even the Jeep probably only adds 10-12 watts to each side. The halogen bulbs are probably somewhere around 50-60 watts each - did you disconnect the front ones? They are likely tied together (or at least were while in school bus service). That's a lot of wattage, it could easily trip a breaker.


The Click-Click-Click you hear - you've probably got 2 relays at work here. One under the dash, that works the IH hood mounted lights, and another in the side panel that works all the lights mounted on the rest of the body. I'm guessing voltage goes from the turn signal module to the body relay, but with the key turned off, the main relay is off and all the rest get no power. Turn on the key, the main relay turns on, and voila, the body mounted turn signals should work.


My "school of thought" is close to yours, but I knew the halogens would overload the turn signal system. I chose to replace all 8 7" rear lights with LED versions (the backup and smaller lights probably will too), though if you wanted to re-use the halogens, you should re-use their associated relay. Be fair warned, that's a *LOT* of wattage and brightness, it may or may not even be legal, I'll leave it to you to check and decide. But from an electrical standpoint, use what the factory installed to your advantage. A relay takes far less power than a bulb, and all the electricals for such a heavy load were already in place. Just remove the "input" from the 8-way flasher module and replace it with one from the turn signal or brake circuit, as appropriate.



Side note. All 8 of my 7" lights are red LED's. The original/previous tail/turn signals were all red (not amber turn signals as is so common with buses). I chose to use red for all of them as I plan to use the tail-light function on all of them, for maximum possible rearward visibility.
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pizote View Post
Additional information:

The flasher bulbs are halogen and the blinker bulbs are standard incandescent. I have new LED lights on order, tried replacing the bulbs with LEDs but the halogens have a different connector type.

If swapping to LED's, as I did, just replace end connectors as appropriate. In my case, I'm disconnecting the previous wires for the halogens and tying into the brake/turn signals. I'll save the wires and leave them in place, possibly for speakers or "whatever" later on.
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:39 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
OK, so here's the thing. Your typical 1157 type bulbs have a wattage somewhere around 10-12 watts on the "bright" side. You've got one on the hood, and 1-3 on the body (my bus has one next to the headlight, one large round yellow on the front below the windshield, one side mounted, and one rear mounted, for a total of 4 per side.) Even the Jeep probably only adds 10-12 watts to each side. The halogen bulbs are probably somewhere around 50-60 watts each - did you disconnect the front ones? They are likely tied together (or at least were while in school bus service). That's a lot of wattage, it could easily trip a breaker.
I just spent some $$ on new bulbs all around and new fixtures for the 7Ē round flashers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
The Click-Click-Click you hear - you've probably got 2 relays at work here. One under the dash, that works the IH hood mounted lights, and another in the side panel that works all the lights mounted on the rest of the body. I'm guessing voltage goes from the turn signal module to the body relay, but with the key turned off, the main relay is off and all the rest get no power. Turn on the key, the main relay turns on, and voila, the body mounted turn signals should work.
This makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
My "school of thought" is close to yours, but I knew the halogens would overload the turn signal system. I chose to replace all 8 7" rear lights with LED versions (the backup and smaller lights probably will too), though if you wanted to re-use the halogens, you should re-use their associated relay. Be fair warned, that's a *LOT* of wattage and brightness, it may or may not even be legal, I'll leave it to you to check and decide. But from an electrical standpoint, use what the factory installed to your advantage. A relay takes far less power than a bulb, and all the electricals for such a heavy load were already in place.
Iím going the direction of the two front amber flashers as blinkers and the red ones will become off-road floods for Boondocking.

The rear reds will be brake light and the rear ambers will be blinkers.

Iíve already replaced the backup lights and parking lights on the back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
Just remove the "input" from the 8-way flasher module and replace it with one from the turn signal or brake circuit, as appropriate.

This is a good idea thanks.

One thing that I have run into is that the side markers are also blinkers - which I like. But they are sealed units and you canít change the bulb. I havenít found any replacements yet that I like. So that search continues.

Thanks for your response. Very detailed.
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:52 PM   #6
Skoolie
 
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Replaced all but the side marker bulbs with LEDs, including the 7Ē round flashers and now it all works like a charm.

My front and rear amber flashers work with the blinkers. The rear red flashers are hooked up to the brake lights.

The front red flashers are disconnected for the time being. I might put a 7Ē spot in one and a 7Ē flood in the other for when Iím on dirt roads. I would have to build an encasement to mount them flush though. Not a big deal. Maybe a residential CAN might work. Then I just need to seal it.
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:25 AM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
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Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pizote View Post
Replaced all but the side marker bulbs with LEDs, including the 7Ē round flashers and now it all works like a charm.

My front and rear amber flashers work with the blinkers. The rear red flashers are hooked up to the brake lights.

The front red flashers are disconnected for the time being. I might put a 7Ē spot in one and a 7Ē flood in the other for when Iím on dirt roads. I would have to build an encasement to mount them flush though. Not a big deal. Maybe a residential CAN might work. Then I just need to seal it.

I chose to use all red LED's on the back of my bus. All of them will be wired as running/tail lights as well as their associated stop/turn functions. The original (previous) turn signals also had red lenses, instead of the far more common yellow.


Up top, all the halogens came out and were replaced with LED's just as I did below. (As of this writing, only half are wired up.) I copied the arrangement so that the "outer" lights were the turn signals, and the inner lights are the brakes. Drivers are used to this arrangement, and if someone 10 cars back can only see my upper lights, they'll still easily know what I'm doing.
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