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Old 10-13-2015, 01:05 AM   #41
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Your doing a great job.

I feel bad for you having to use corded tools. Having modern cordless has made me spoiled. I hate having to deal with cords now, especially places like rooftops..

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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I love the Hobart 140. Easy to use, and easy to power.
I love my Hobart 210 MVP.

Easy to power due to the use of 120 or 240.

My Hobart plasma is also a multi voltage unit.

Great stuff for the price.

Nat
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:23 AM   #42
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The Modified Wiring Schematic:

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Old 10-13-2015, 09:25 AM   #43
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I just realized I already posted about the new Schematic... Well here it is again.
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Old 01-03-2016, 04:39 PM   #44
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54 panels with 9 strings at 72v nominal installed. See the blog link bellow.
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Old 01-03-2016, 04:41 PM   #45
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https://eljardinometepe.files.wordpr...2/img_1401.jpg
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Old 01-03-2016, 04:42 PM   #46
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https://eljardinometepe.wordpress.co...us-conversion/
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:27 PM   #47
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Man! What a great project. I was skeptical but I'm impressed now. Awesome work!
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:16 AM   #48
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The only somewhat uneducated comment I have is this: I understand some types of panels are susceptible to significant decreased output even if only partially shaded. (well, duh! SOLAR panels. ) I got the idea that the current through the whole string dropped to the level of the few shaded cells, or some such awful thing. Roof vents casting a shadow on part of a panel mounted too close is supposed to be a big deal for example. Perhaps it was on https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/ I read it? I don't recall.

Anyway, what I'm getting to is this: if you find it doesn't work out very well as-is, perhaps it could be because the pairs of panels on the left, top, and right have significant different sun exposures and so the whole string is dragged down to the performance of the pair least exposed to sun. Especially during winter when the sun is low in the sky. In that case, if you can find it in the cards to re-wire with three charge controllers, then you could re-arrange so that there are 3 strings on the left, 3 on top, and 3 on the right with each triple going to its own charge controller, then connect the controllers' outputs in parallel to the battery bank. This assumes the controller model is one that plays nice when wired in parallel with other charge sources. This way the panels could all perform to their best without impairing the performance of those with better exposure.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:29 AM   #49
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One other thought: if you do encounter a problem of low performance, and it sounds like you may have based on comments on the other PV woes thread running now.. Perhaps you could rewire so only the best-exposed bank (left/top/right) is connected to the charge controller and compare its performance. Cheap and relatively easy way to test the theory.
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Old 01-04-2016, 05:26 PM   #50
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All good points. I had a lot of things to conciser and this has been a huge learning experience for me and certainly the largest and most difficult part of this build. The biggest factor is we are driving from 45 degrees latitude to 13 degrees latitude over the course of about 2 months. Theft of the panels in Mexico and Central America are a big concern of mine so I didn't want to build an adjustable array and all panels are riveted into place.



In addition my approach was to use far more panels then I needed so I could park the bus almost anywhere along the way without having to hunt for the perfect location and position. It also helped the panels were second hand and free.
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