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Old 08-06-2016, 01:57 PM   #21
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Thanks, Jack!

Do I need one of these at each tap? Time to really think through the water system...

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Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:03 PM   #22
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Roach's accumulator got me thinking, and was thinking about a 2' piece of 6" PVC. Its probably overkill, though...
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:10 PM   #23
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Thanks, Scooter!
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:16 PM   #24
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I have never used an on demand water heater but what jack says is kind of more on line with the commercial systems I build and install for a living.
The heater source whether it be for me geo-thermal,steam,solar or whatever connects and circulates through a storage tank (usually around the bottom 3rd)and cycles on and off by a temperature reading at the towards the top of the storage tank where the hot water demands feed from which is very efficient and doable but you need a temperature switch and an on demand heater with control contacts for the temp. Switch to turn it on and off and that can control the pump on and off with a flow switch to prove water flowing through the heater before it starts heating?
I don't know how the residential things work but that is my commercial experience expanding on jacks idea.
If the heater can sense/read the tank temp. Then it can shut off when the demand is satisfied or it could read the temp at your farthest fixture and also turn the pump off but the piping and insulation installed would be a big factor in that.
I have built many variations in 20-years and have been troubleshooting and answering for many variations but that is in a commercial construction world on govt bases.
I installed an electric water heater myself,ran all of my water lines out of copper and buried them in the new insulation I put in my walls an electric heater maintains its storage tank without a circulation loop from another source and my piping was direct from the tank to each source through a piping header to tie each run into.
My bath sink and shower are built around and over my heater and my kitchen sink is 12' away. But my family and I have been tent camping for 20-years so heating water on the fire for cleaning is no big deal.
I will also have a water spigot for hot and cold water outside of the bus for use because I plan on an outside sink and stove burners at a minimum.
Just my thoughts and probably more of my experience that you can't use but it is food for thought
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:26 PM   #25
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Definitely good food for thought!
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Old 08-06-2016, 02:45 PM   #26
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BF, you only need one right where the return line enters the tank. I used a couple of single pole double throw bat switches set up like a hallway light switch to control the solenoid either from the kitchen or bath.

JR. After I discovered that the tankless water heater was able to heat the water enough to burst the PVC lines, I added a programmable thermocouple switch at the heater outlet to preclude the problem. Jack
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Old 08-06-2016, 03:31 PM   #27
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Yes I know there are many ways to make it happen but all I know is my experience and my world in trying to transfer it into a skoolie and I am going with the kiss method.
I ran decommissioned extension cords for 120 and anything ran underside even though an extension cord went in conduit
Just what's in my head.
There are many ways to control anything electrical and I did forget about the thermocouple and all of there uses even though I still deal with them?
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:01 PM   #28
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I get so happy when all of you knowledgeable folks assemble your experience into these threads!

So regarding this solenoid, I wanted to confirm- is this is what we are thinking here?

Mentally I thought it would make more sense to put the solenoid here like so


I will sleep much better tonight with your opinions in my head.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:17 AM   #29
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It might make more sense to install the solenoid near the end of the hot water line, in the case of the above schematics, near the shower/tub. The idea is to charge the hot water line with hot water and limit the amount of cool water that is wasted while we wait for hot water to emerge from the tap.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:59 AM   #30
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if you put the w h on the wall between the shower and kitchen there wont be any waisted water and no need for a solenoid. keep it simple people
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