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Old 08-02-2016, 04:33 PM   #1
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Advice Designing Water System...

Hey folks!

I'm in the process of designing skoolie subsystems and looking for some advice. I will be full-timing and am starting out with fairly high expectations that I'm sure will be tempered...

I'm looking at four wet areas in my design: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower and (probably) outdoor shower/hose. Bus will be plumbed with PEX throughout. (Toilet will be of the composting variety.)

I'm including on-demand LP heating.

What is the best and/or most efficient way of designing the plumbing to bypass 12v pump(s) when hooked to shore water?

I've read that the affordable tankless LP water heaters (eccotemp, Marey, etc) are particular about water pressure. Some are installing multiple pumps; one cold, one hot?

Advantages/disadvantages to including a pressurized bladder/tank to feed the bus? How big of a bladder/tank? Requires different pump(s)?

Thanks for your feedback!
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:40 PM   #2
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After more research, I was able to find the following schematics. A filtration system can be added. Blackwater can be deleted if going with a composting toilet.

Basic:


Fancy:
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:58 AM   #3
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I like layout and may steal parts of it for my conversion. One thing I'd reconsider is a composting toilet. If you have a black water tank why go with a composting tiolet. I'd rather flush it and forget then have to deal with hauling the waste through the bus for disposal.

How big are you going to make the grey water and black water tanks?

Thanks,
Peter B
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:31 AM   #4
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I've definitely decided on the composting toilet. I'll be full-timing and plan on dry camping at least half the time. Solar power will make food and water (supply and waste) the deciding factors on length of stay. Besides, I'm looking at a 30ish foot skoolie, which limits undercarriage space. Composting is also a much simpler system and further reduces potential "system failure". As I'll be soloing, a composting toilet will go a month or better between servicing. I also don't want to deal with possible black water tank vent odors.

Space and weight will be the limiting factors for fresh and grey tanks. Currently, I'm thinking a minimum of 100 gal for each. Fresh will go under the bed, grey beneath the chassis.

If I went with black water, it would be 30-40 gal.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:36 AM   #5
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I'm still trying to determine the benefits of the expansion tank. Also wondering how to implement hot water recirculation to limit fresh water waste.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:44 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by BusFiend View Post
I'm still trying to determine the benefits of the expansion tank. Also wondering how to implement hot water recirculation to limit fresh water waste.
If you are using an instant hot water tank I'm not sure you'd need an expansion tank. You may want to just install a pulsation dampener and they are fairly small, about the size of a spray paint can.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:46 AM   #7
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you need a vent on the fresh water tank.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:56 AM   #8
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you need a vent on the fresh water tank.
Yes! All tanks must be vented.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:59 AM   #9
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If you are using an instant hot water tank I'm not sure you'd need an expansion tank. You may want to just install a pulsation dampener and they are fairly small, about the size of a spray paint can.
Good point. I'll put this on the further research list.
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:06 PM   #10
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you need a vent on the fresh water tank.
Why is this? And what type of vent are we talking? I have a sterilized 55 gallon plastic drum from a local ice cream factory I was going to use onboard for my freshwater, it already has a hole on top that I had planned on sealing
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