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Old 11-14-2015, 10:55 PM   #11
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: St Louis Metro
Posts: 105
Year: 1978
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Lifeguard
Engine: 366 Chevy
Damn Nat, and I thought you were one of the forum gurus. I guess Don's my new hero. ;)
The more I do, the more I find needs done.
Build Thread - ET - ELWOOD Transporter
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:56 AM   #12
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I learn something everyday.

"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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Old 11-15-2015, 03:09 AM   #13
Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 305
Originally Posted by gizmoq View Post
Damn Nat, and I thought you were one of the forum gurus. I guess Don's my new hero. ;)

How Does a RV Refrigerator Work? | eHow
It is a simplified version of what is going on. My concern is if the water gets above about 120 deg F surrounding those coils the ammonia won't condense very well most of it will stay gaseous. Eventually you will boil the water in the fridge system until it blows out causing it to rapidly vent thru the hole it creates (almost always by the propane burner) causing the ammonia and hydrogen to catch on fire. If it were a good idea believe me this hot water/ fridge monster would already be on the market. RVers and especially boaters would love such a space saving fuel efficient system.

Not to mention the higher the temp surrounding the coils the more level you need everything or you won't get the condensation either.

Nats from the great white north, they use fridges to keep things warm in the winter.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:52 AM   #14
Almost There
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sedona, AZ
Posts: 76
Year: 1995
Chassis: Thomas Saf T Line
Engine: 8.3L Cummins
alternative water heating solar, wood, lp

here is what im trying to do with solar and wood. i'm trying to figure out my water system specifically the hot water because I want to have alternative heating methods. in the diagram below the very simple drawing on top is a tried and true water heater that I grew up with. hot water tank elevated above heating coils, 4 outlets to the tank hot and cold intake and out put then tank water to and from heating coil. the heating coils was 3/8" copper tubing coiled around the 6" chimney pipe. 6" pipe x pie 18+" time 10 coils a little better than 15' of coil creating thermal up lift and cycling the water WITH OUT any pumps or moving parts. only 2 cons to this. 1 too hot a fire and the water would boil in the coil... not bad just make funny sounds and then the pressure valve would vent. 2. we had hard water so every few years the coil would lime up and we would have to replace it. my dads advice was to use coolant/ oil in the coil.

this is where i need you guys the bottom part of the diagram is my skoolie blue is cold water, red is hot water, green is coolant. i'm going to have a disconnect panel going to the solar for movement and possibly for cold months, wood for winter, and LP heater if I end up some where with no room for panels and to hot for wood. now the question is where do i place the heat exchanger and the oil reservoir where i can still capitalize on the thermal moment and reduce the need for 3 pumps for the system.

the feed in to the bus is looped so when i take it to cold climates there will be more circulation to keep the pipes and tanks from freezing. i also wanted to have the heat exchanger in the under storage with the tanks but i'm not sure if that will be conducive to thermal flow.

also i thought i had an exchanger lined up that would be conducive to thermal flow but this is all i can find now.
50 Plate Wood Boiler Heat Exchanger 1" Ports Outdoor Wood Boiler Radiant Heat | eBay

let me know your thoughts
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