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12-18-2016, 04:53 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 10
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
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Cutting floor for shower drop
I am thinking about cutting the floor and making a step down for the shower being that I have about 18 inches of free space under my bus and Im not a small feller. I talked to a few bus mechanics and they didnt see a problem with it and I was wondering if anyone else decided to go that route? Im trying to find different ways to drain it to the grey tank.
Thanks
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12-18-2016, 05:17 PM
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#2
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Almost There
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Cheyenne wy
Posts: 90
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 cumnins
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I'm curious about this as well and have researched it a little, a few things to think about:
It will be a very cold shower pan if you don't insulate well under the bus.
Usually you want your gray water tank up as high as possible tucked under the skirt of the bus. If you have a shower lower than the top of the tank plus the required p trap curve youd have to position your tank maybe 6 or 8 inches below the bottom of the shower.
If these two things can be overcome and you have something sturdy enough to mount it to then I can't see any other problem with it.
Working on my bus now, I think I may have to bite the bullet and do a roof raise. I'm 6'4", thhe roof is currently 6'6" but I'm going to be adding at least 2 inches of insulation to the floor plus wood floors. And worse yet, my 12 year old will probably be taller than me in about 3 or 4 years. He already wears the same size shoe as me [emoji31]. So I think I really need to figure the easiest way to roof raise which will make the shower pan in the floor less important.
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__________________
-Joel
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12-18-2016, 05:24 PM
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#3
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Almost There
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Cheyenne wy
Posts: 90
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 cumnins
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If you don't want to have the gray water any lower you could set up some sort of automatic bilge pump below the p trap maybe... Would use more electricity but could work. I'd think a tank laying down sideways so it's wider instead of taller would work though. Maintenance on a pump to drain out the water could be a pain. I know my wife sheds like a collie and I don't know of any pump that would handle that well.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
__________________
-Joel
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12-18-2016, 06:04 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adventure Bus
If you don't want to have the gray water any lower you could set up some sort of automatic bilge pump below the p trap maybe... Would use more electricity but could work. I'd think a tank laying down sideways so it's wider instead of taller would work though. Maintenance on a pump to drain out the water could be a pain. I know my wife sheds like a collie and I don't know of any pump that would handle that well.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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That's a brave man that puts that in writing
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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12-18-2016, 06:09 PM
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#5
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Almost There
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Cheyenne wy
Posts: 90
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 cumnins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania
That's a brave man that puts that in writing
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Haha. It's more of a test to see if she actually reads these things.
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__________________
-Joel
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12-18-2016, 06:59 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,226
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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I both dropped the shower (wet toilet combo) through the floor and used a small; 6 gallon grey water tank with a lift pump to the regular grey tank. The pump is accessible through the original filler/pour spout and is operated by a switch in the shower stall. The important thing is to use a "P" trap for odor and a screen in the drain for hair. So far no problems. Because my bus is so short I also cut a hole in the roof for more headroom. I used 2" of foam to insulate under the floor and in the roof. As can be seen in the final picture, the front wall of the bath made a perfect place to hang the TV/DVD thingy.
Jack
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12-18-2016, 07:22 PM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 10
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
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Ol Trunt, that is an amazing job! Thank you so much for the response!
Adventure Bus, I was thinking of a small bilge pump too, but the 6 gallon tank that Ol Tunt has described might be my best bet. Even thought the bilge pump to me sounds like an easier idea.
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12-18-2016, 07:26 PM
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#8
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Almost There
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Cheyenne wy
Posts: 90
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 cumnins
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Ya. Pretty smart 6 gallons with a lift pump you wouldn't need a pump powerful enough to keep up with a full shower just enough to not get more than 6 gallons behind. Genius.
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__________________
-Joel
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12-18-2016, 07:27 PM
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#9
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 10
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
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Yeah I am REALLY happy that someone else did this! I am stoked to actually be able to do it to mine!
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12-18-2016, 10:30 PM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 932
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
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Nice work ol Trunt, AND a skylight? sweet!
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12-19-2016, 04:00 AM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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Ok, what about using a blue 30gal polypropylene tank? I think it'd work and also fit behind my skirt easier!
Wait a minute..... I got this!!!
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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12-19-2016, 04:17 AM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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12-19-2016, 11:18 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,226
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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I went to here: ProMaster Camper Van Conversion -- Plumbing. Must be fun to hack up a clean new truck like that--$30K or something like that? My guess is that the drain apparatus needn't have been installed. The latex paint coated plywood tank will become self draining in short order.
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12-23-2016, 03:40 AM
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#14
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Manassa Utah
Posts: 6
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An option that I do not recallseeing here is poly-ethylene tanks. It has been a few years since Ilast bought any, but they are used in most travel trailers and motorhomes for not just black & grey water but also potable water. They are reasonably inexpensive (used to be at least) and generally easy to fix in case of a tank rupture.
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03-15-2017, 10:30 AM
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#15
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 10
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
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That's what I have, 3 poly tanks to hold potable, grey and black. I am still considering a drop but leaning more towards a step in, only because my fiance isn't as adventurous as I am about cutting floors. So I figure I will do as the boss says and be happy in the long run Thank yall for your input and advice! I will more than likely do it in the future when shes working.....
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03-19-2017, 01:09 AM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 216
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126
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Thank you for sharing those photos, ol trunt. They have inspired me.
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03-19-2017, 10:01 AM
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#17
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Pasadena Tx
Posts: 150
Coachwork: 1991 bluebird
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The old insulation issue, always trying to get your best R factor to keep that nice comfy temp. Here's a link that might head you in the right direction to not raising that roof. I research products like this all the time. Jetson Green - Ultra-Thin Super Insulation with Aerogel....... Being a general contractor for over 25 years and involved in product sales of all kinds of new tech building products is really going to pay off when I build my conversion.
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03-19-2017, 12:27 PM
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#18
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,001
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International
Engine: TE 444
Rated Cap: 12
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Also make sure your drain hookup is on the left side towards the back, RV parks are universally set up for that location and most dump locations are set up for left side drains
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03-19-2017, 01:03 PM
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#19
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,497
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
Rated Cap: 72 pax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubla
Also make sure your drain hookup is on the left side towards the back, RV parks are universally set up for that location and most dump locations are set up for left side drains
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I actually wondered about that.
What about shore power and water hook ups?
Are they in a standard location as well?
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04-01-2017, 07:07 PM
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#20
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: arkensas
Posts: 1,071
Year: 1997
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: 71 now 2 humans 1 cat
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im going to raise the roof instead 16 inches
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