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Old 01-04-2018, 11:48 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Ecotemp L10 install options / questions / safety

I was just about to order an Ecotemp L10 (sweet sale right now 30% off their website). However, despite prior research, I am know second guessing my plan.

The Plan :

Ecotemp L10 installed inside with external fan and vent leading to outside <-- is this too dangerous? Ecotemp doesn't like the idea / it voids the warranty. I know the co2 risk, but I feel I am capable of making a proper vent.

I thought I would be able to run one pump from my water tank to the Ecotemp L10 and one pump from the tank to supply my cold direct from the tank.

An Ecotemp tech said this is not recommended, but should I be okay?

Basically, I want to be able to have on demand hot or cold water with separate water valves.

This would lead to my kitchen sink inside the bus- the shower head is going to be attachable on the outside of the bus - i still was't sure if I was going to have separate valves for the shower or just split after the valve controls for the kitchen sink.

Any input on the plan would be very appreciated - any alternative plans would also be appreciated.

Thank you
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Old 01-04-2018, 02:04 PM   #2
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I'm curious about this water heater too. Thanks for the heads up on the sale!

Also curious if anyone's installed the Eccotemp L5, and if it's capable of providing enough flow to be used for a kitchen sink or shower (not simultaneously). The smaller unit would fit into my space much better.

Not sure why you're going with 2 pumps, though. Why not just split off your cold branch before it goes to the heater?
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Old 01-04-2018, 03:56 PM   #3
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Ecotemp have models that can be vented outside. Can't remember the model numbers, but I will probably get one.

If you can connect a 3" vent-pipe to the top of the L10, it should work okay.
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Old 01-04-2018, 04:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post

Not sure why you're going with 2 pumps, though. Why not just split off your cold branch before it goes to the heater?
ahh see I wasn't thinking properly, thanks for the
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Old 01-04-2018, 05:43 PM   #5
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actually some folks in this thread think 2 pumps is the way to go, as the pressure needs of the water heater need to be kept constant and high.

I think 2 pumps it is

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f50/pu...ent-17903.html
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Old 01-04-2018, 05:43 PM   #6
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I have an Ecotemp L5 installed in a sealed closet which gets combustion air from under my bus and vents exhaust out the top. You will be happier with a dedicated pump (factory recommends a specific pump) and a recirculating valve so the water keeps heating and is ready instantly at the spigot. I also have a thermostat which regulates the max temp of the water.

Set up this way the L5 is completely satisfactory for our needs. Without the recirculation, the heater cut out every time a faucet was shut off and upon re-opening the faucet there was a lag time while the heater started heating the water again. The dedicated pump assures water flow to the heater even if the cold tap is opened. All the Ecotemps are pressure and flow sensitive.

Jack
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Old 01-04-2018, 05:49 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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thank you for the insight ol trunt - was actually just reading though the other thread you were responding in.

Curious - in your system are you connecting your pumps directly to the water tank, or are you using any sort of regulatory or purge (maybe not correct terminology) tank?
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:08 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
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thank you for the insight ol trunt - was actually just reading though the other thread you were responding in.

Curious - in your system are you connecting your pumps directly to the water tank, or are you using any sort of regulatory or purge (maybe not correct terminology) tank?

Also, just saw you talk of a Electric Solenoid Valve - could you elaborate on it's placement and how it works.

Thank you!
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:52 PM   #9
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I have a manifold just after the water tank which lets me select shore or tank water. There is a pressure regulator on the shore line.

I ran a pipe from the outlet on my heater to the furthest hot water spigot and looped it back to the water tank where it enters via a solenoid on/off valve. I have a switch on the counter in the kitchen and another in the bath wired like a hallway light switch. Each switch has a LED guide light. Flipping either switch opens the solenoid valve and allows water to flow through the heater and return to the tank. The hot water faucets in the kitchen and bath branch from the recirculation system using as little pipe as possible (saves wasting water waiting for hot water). We experience some pressure drop at the faucet due to the recirculation and if we wanted a forceful stream in the shower we'd simply shut off the solenoid--we've never felt the need to do that.

Jack
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omingnome View Post
I was just about to order an Ecotemp L10 (sweet sale right now 30% off their website). However, despite prior research, I am know second guessing my plan.

The Plan :

Ecotemp L10 installed inside with external fan and vent leading to outside <-- is this too dangerous? Ecotemp doesn't like the idea / it voids the warranty. I know the co2 risk, but I feel I am capable of making a proper vent.

I thought I would be able to run one pump from my water tank to the Ecotemp L10 and one pump from the tank to supply my cold direct from the tank.

Thank you
You should be able to accomplish this with one pump - put the pump right next to your fresh water tank, then a tee after the pump, with one side going to your cold water supply and the other side going to the water heater.

I have an Ecotemp L10 installed indoors. I usually don't run it for more than ~5min at a time, and I've never had a problem. I used dryer ducting to vent it out through the wall to outside.

Also, definitely have a smoke detector, Carbon monoxide detector, and explosive gas detector. The CO detector is necessary because the L10 will draw cabin air for combustion, so it could get oxygen levels low while increasing CO levels inside. Explosive gas detectors will usually "smell" natural gas and propane in case of a leak.
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