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Old 01-22-2018, 06:23 PM   #1
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H/C Water at kitchen and shower with 1 pump/heater

Can anyone post some sort of diagram representing how I get on demand hot and cold water at my kitchen sink and hot and cold water for a shower with 1 tank and 1 pump. Thanks
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:27 PM   #2
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Can anyone post some sort of diagram representing how I get on demand hot and cold water at my kitchen sink and hot and cold water for a shower with 1 tank and 1 pump. Thanks
Here ya go.
HTH
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:30 PM   #3
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Can anyone post some sort of diagram representing how I get on demand hot and cold water at my kitchen sink and hot and cold water for a shower with 1 tank and 1 pump. Thanks
Fresh Tank ->Pump-->Accumulator-->Instant Heater In-->Instant Heater Out-->T-Fitting-->One Line to Kitchen, One line to Bathroom.

There will be a slight delay for hot water, the closer the instant heater is to the bathroom/kitchen, the shorter the delay

Cold water T's off before the heater, or fit a manifold with one inlet and three outlets. One goes to the Heater, one to the kitchen and one to the bathroom.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:36 PM   #4
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And to add to this, make your main lines 3/4 inch and the feeds to the faucets 1/2 inch. Pex would be best. It can freeze to a point and not burst.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:38 PM   #5
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Marc and Twigg hit it spot on for a typical RV install.

I have read that SOME of the demand water heater manufacturers recommend separate pumps for hot and cold. You may want to check with the manufacturer of the water heater that you are planning on using and see what they say.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:39 PM   #6
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Here ya go.
HTH
Great thank you, just clarifying.. I will have to turn the heater on every time I want hot water.. there’s no instant propane heater out there right?
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:45 PM   #7
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And to add to this, make your main lines 3/4 inch and the feeds to the faucets 1/2 inch. Pex would be best. It can freeze to a point and not burst.
This is good advice as pressure problems are reduced with wider-bore pipes.

There may be a few flies in the ointment. Most standard tanks come with 1/2" fittings. These would need to be capped and 3/4" bulkhead fittings added.

Same for the pump ... You would need one with larger bore connections.

Same for the accumulator.

I haven't looked, but if everything to the manifold could be 3/4", and 1/2" from the manifold to the fittings, you would get a very efficient system.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:45 PM   #8
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Great thank you, just clarifying.. I will have to turn the heater on every time I want hot water.. there’s no instant propane heater out there right?
The propane heater turns on when you turn the hot water on. They turn off when not in demand.
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:46 PM   #9
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Wrong. Use Google to search Skoolie on this topic--there are many discussions and each will lead you to another. Just plain old fashion homework for you to do on a rainy day. Jack
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:49 PM   #10
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Great thank you, just clarifying.. I will have to turn the heater on every time I want hot water.. there’s no instant propane heater out there right?
Nope.

With the instant heaters, they detect the drop in pressure when you open a tap and fire automatically.
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