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05-07-2019, 05:33 PM
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#21
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 93
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: Chevrolet
Engine: 6.6 LLY Duramax
Rated Cap: 15
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I have both plastic and brass fittings and connect with hose clamps. This time (meaning not the first time, which was last time), all but one of the brass connections leaked. No leak with any of the plastic ones. I kept tightening and testing until the hose clamp broke. I now need to either get the crimp tool or sharkbite or something.
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05-07-2019, 06:46 PM
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#22
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: SW Virginia Mountains
Posts: 25
Coachwork: Want a Thomas
Rated Cap: want a 30-35 footer
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A good thread here on the subject of PEX including a discussion on clamps and fittings.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/...system.174421/
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05-07-2019, 09:14 PM
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#23
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Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 93
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: Chevrolet
Engine: 6.6 LLY Duramax
Rated Cap: 15
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Thanks semipro, good read for sure.
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05-08-2019, 09:14 AM
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#24
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,413
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: CAT 3126
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I used crimp rings and was pleased with it. Can’t really compare to the other options but I had no leaks and it was easy peesy. The only thing to consider is planning ahead a little for situations where the crimp tool might not fit.
In those cases I worked ahead a little and then put the pre assembled section in place and then connected to the rest of the line.
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05-08-2019, 10:30 AM
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#25
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 233
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84lug
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Those of you have used it, is there much difference between the crimp ring, pinch ring , or sharkbite connections? I see in other threads where Sharkbites are discussed and how expensive they are. I found 1/2" PVC lock fittings for $2. Seems like the easiest way to accomplish connections. Any downside to these? None of it carries much pressure.
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My whole bus is pex and I have a combination of both connector types. I have having no problems with any of them. The sharkbites for transitions is so easy. I did upgrade to brass fittings over plastic.... concerned for road abuse on the plastic fittings.. but ya.... Sharkbites are great.
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05-08-2019, 12:08 PM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Tampa Fl
Posts: 51
Year: 1989
Coachwork: MCI 96A3
Engine: DD 8V92TA
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I have used the Pex cinch type connectors for the entire Bus plumbing build.
You can see the IWISS cinch tool I use in the bottom of the picture with the white (fresh water Tank) barrel, purchased from Amazon for $21 with 30 clamps.
I have used a combination of brass and plastic fittings and valves.
Easy to work with, I have had no leaks at all so far.
I will usually build one section and dry fit it all together then go through and cinch all the clamps.
There have been a few spots where the cinch tool was difficult to get in there.
The few times I had to remove the cinch connectors have not been to bad, I can usually pry the clamp loose with a screw driver and pliers Then pull the pipe loose from the fitting, once the pipe would not come loose and I had to trim the pipe by the length of the connector then cut the piece off the fitting with a razor knife.
I have plumbed each fixture with its own feed off a central manifold so any fixture can be shut off at the manifold in case of a leak or failure.
Everything is designed to be able to flow to two bottom points to drain the system if needed.
Peter
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05-10-2019, 09:28 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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So it turns out that CPVC, PEX, and copper are the same diameter, but PVC is larger, so none of the PVC grip or sharkbite fittings will work on it. Gripwerks make a ball valve that works nicely on the PEX. I know when I was in construction I often used blue and red ball valve to distinguish hot from cold. Can not find anything but solvent weld 1/2" with a red handle, everything is blue. Not as big a deal on PEX as the lines designate hot and cold by color.
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05-15-2019, 03:41 PM
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#28
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 18
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Pex
the part that sucks with pex. With 1/2” copper the fitting sits on the outside of the pipe where the bulkie pex fitting goes on the inside of the pipe and chokes the pressure! For a Skoolie build totally acceptable, I’ll not use 1/2” pex in my house again because of pressure drop.
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05-15-2019, 04:06 PM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2wbl
the part that sucks with pex. With 1/2” copper the fitting sits on the outside of the pipe where the bulkie pex fitting goes on the inside of the pipe and chokes the pressure! For a Skoolie build totally acceptable, I’ll not use 1/2” pex in my house again because of pressure drop.
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I wonder how important the crush sleeve is on PEX? The PEX doesn't crush easily.
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05-16-2019, 08:08 AM
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#30
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
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Plumber here,
I plumbed my bus with wirsbo type pex. This method uses plastic or brass fittings. Instead of using a crimp type to connect joints, it uses expansion. You place a ring made of the same material on the end of the pipe and use a specific tool (easily found at rental shops) to expand the end of the pipe in order to insert the fitting. After a few seconds, the pipe shrinks back to its original shape holding the fitting firmly in place.
I use this product commonly and is extremely reliable. I've used all types of pex, cpvc, potable pcv, copper, etc. I highly recommend wirsbo for its flexibility and longevity.
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05-16-2019, 07:57 PM
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#31
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Is there an easy trick to getting the coil out of the roll of PEX?
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05-16-2019, 08:25 PM
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#32
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Is there an easy trick to getting the coil out of the roll of PEX?
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If perfectly straight runs of pipe are what you are looking for, you can buy straight sticks of pipe, I usually work with rolls. The trick for not making a mess of the roll is to leave the packaging on the roll and grab what you need from the inside end of the coil. There are methods to keep your work organized for your out of wall runs. I use talons, they are u shaped with small snap on the inside that snaps over the pipe and on one of the sides is a nail. Use those to hang your pipe to wood much like you would do with wire. There are other ways to hang pipe to other materials, it just depends on how meticulous you want to get with pipe organization.
Long story short, there's no good way to get rolls of pex perfectly straight, just work with what you got.
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05-16-2019, 09:14 PM
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#33
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judger90
If perfectly straight runs of pipe are what you are looking for, you can buy straight sticks of pipe, I usually work with rolls. The trick for not making a mess of the roll is to leave the packaging on the roll and grab what you need from the inside end of the coil. There are methods to keep your work organized for your out of wall runs. I use talons, they are u shaped with small snap on the inside that snaps over the pipe and on one of the sides is a nail. Use those to hang your pipe to wood much like you would do with wire. There are other ways to hang pipe to other materials, it just depends on how meticulous you want to get with pipe organization.
Long story short, there's no good way to get rolls of pex perfectly straight, just work with what you got.
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It's going in the floor, so no hangers. It will have 1 run of 60' in 4 rows and a 2nd run 60' in 6 rows.
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05-28-2019, 12:58 AM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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So I'm looking at the water pump I bought for the floor heat and just realized its a 3/8" and the floor PEX is 1/2". Am I right in assuming it will work, just flow a bit slower? Is going a bit slower an issue. Anything else to be concerned about.
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05-28-2019, 01:21 AM
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#35
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
So I'm looking at the water pump I bought for the floor heat and just realized its a 3/8" and the floor PEX is 1/2". Am I right in assuming it will work, just flow a bit slower? Is going a bit slower an issue. Anything else to be concerned about.
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better a flow of 3/8 from the pump to a bigger line than the other way around
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05-28-2019, 01:22 AM
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#36
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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It will be slower, and it that necessarily a bad thing?
Reducing flow velocity will increase the opportunity for heat exchange.
Which is the whole point of having a hyronic floor, no..?
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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05-28-2019, 01:28 AM
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#37
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960
It will be slower, and it that necessarily a bad thing?
Reducing flow velocity will increase the opportunity for heat exchange.
Which is the whole point of having a hyronic floor, no..?
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it's certainly not ideal - but less restriction in the pipe will mean less drop in pressure due to friction - is there an option to change the outlet on the pump to 1/2"?
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05-28-2019, 02:00 AM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
it's certainly not ideal - but less restriction in the pipe will mean less drop in pressure due to friction - is there an option to change the outlet on the pump to 1/2"?
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Not really, molded 3/8" barbs both sides. I'm leaning toward Matt's theory, a bit slower can't hurt. I'll just add a 1/2-3/8" reducer, wait, I can put this 1/2"x3/8" SharkBite to use.
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05-28-2019, 12:18 PM
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#39
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Not really, molded 3/8" barbs both sides. I'm leaning toward Matt's theory, a bit slower can't hurt. I'll just add a 1/2-3/8" reducer, wait, I can put this 1/2"x3/8" SharkBite to use.
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that should work
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