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Old 08-26-2014, 08:01 AM   #1
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PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

Okay I will not have holding tanks until maybe next year

Plan is to have kitchen sink, bathtub and toilet

Main line will be a 3" line from toilet to gate valve and then to dump at FH campsite

the tub will connect to the 3" with 1-1/2 pipe (with S trap for odor control)

sink will connect to 3" line before gate valve (with S trap for odor control)

while camping I will just keep the gate valve open while connected to the dump pipe with a cone end

Do I need a "vent" if so were would you put it?


If I put a vent near the toilet end (highest) I could theoretically use the 3" pipe volume for an emergency deuce or two
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #2
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

i would put the tank under the toilet and the vent by the sink. moving solids down the pipe takes a bit more water.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:01 AM   #3
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

It's a household toilet and it should be able to move the "solids" at least 15 ft., like a ho8use...right?

I was going to mimic the angle at home, and it goes 100 ft. to the septic tank

Since I wont have a tank, this will be used for F/H camping so I don't see big tanks in my future
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:11 AM   #4
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

I would put the vent (Cheater/Cheader/Schrader/AAV... pick one, they are all the same thing) under the sink. This vent is to allow air INTO the drain lines to allow the water to drain. Under the sink because it is the highest in altitude. You might have to add an additional vent to your vanity sink, depending on the volume of water draining.

We have discovered the single AAV vent we installed on the washer drain line isn't able to suck enough air into the vent. We need to add one under the kitchen sink (AFTER THE P- TRAP) to prevent the washer drainage from sucking the p-trap dry every time it dumps all that water.

BTW, we use valves to bypass the grey tank while hooked up to a sewer. Only black is "held".

On the toilet... It should be okay as long as you have a good slope. We just installed a $68 Home Depot cheapie toilet as yet another part broke on the Mansfield and time was of the essence. It dumps 1.25 gallons per flush. We filled up the holding tank way to fast, then we left the valve open. But David wasn't fond of the idea that the toilet might leave a Tower of Doom in the holding tank despite the amount of water it puts out. We can't just look down thru the toilet to see the tank anymore. So the valve was closed again. We are going to put a gasket on the toilet tank lid, strap the lid down with a velcro strap and attempt to leave the toilet fully functioning when traveling. The water level in the bowl and the tank is pretty low so we think (and hope) it will work. Definately will have to build a bigger black tank.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:37 AM   #5
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

a household toilet will need a vent above it to move that amount of liquid down the pipe. small vents work on campers because we arent moving much water and we can burp at the dump station. a 3" pipe full of liquids is gonna have to be vented above the offending fixture.

an rv toilet is kind of a self venting fixture. you open the valve straight to the drain and it sucks in air. the household toilet has a watertrap built into it, so it is unable to vent itself when you flush
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:54 AM   #6
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED



great info!

Thanks
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:30 PM   #7
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

The sink-end vents are there to keep the slug of water going down the drain pipe from siphoning the P-traps. Air has come in from the sink end and be vented at the tank end or your drains will gurgle like mad. The cheader vents are nice because they are both a vent and a seal to prevent nasty smells back into the bus. They have no water in them so you have one less spot to winterize and plumbing is simpler than a P-trap/vent setup.

Assuming you're using a home style toilet you would need to vent the toilet (probably through the roof) and put cheader vents on the sinks to keep the stink in the drain pipe. P-traps on the sinks would probably work (the toilet vent probably would vent the sinks too), but the cheaders definitely would.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:50 PM   #8
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
The sink-end vents are there to keep the slug of water going down the drain pipe from siphoning the P-traps. Air has come in from the sink end and be vented at the tank end or your drains will gurgle like mad. The cheader vents are nice because they are both a vent and a seal to prevent nasty smells back into the bus. They have no water in them so you have one less spot to winterize and plumbing is simpler than a P-trap/vent setup.

Assuming you're using a home style toilet you would need to vent the toilet (probably through the roof) and put cheader vents on the sinks to keep the stink in the drain pipe. P-traps on the sinks would probably work (the toilet vent probably would vent the sinks too), but the cheaders definitely would.
what is a cheader?
Google is not cooperating with me, I know it's not a restaurant or music something, somethin
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #9
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

David & I have been talking about what you are trying to do. We have found a few issues that may give you problems later with tanks. My question is, are you planning on adding holding tanks later?
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:54 PM   #10
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Re: PLUMBING QUESTION, VENT RELATED

Quote:
Originally Posted by bansil
what is a cheader?
http://www.homedepot.com/s/air%2520admi ... lve?NCNI-5
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