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Old 04-20-2018, 10:31 AM   #1
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: League City, Texas
Posts: 219
Plumbing stuff. What else do I need?

Okay so long story short, I am salvaging what I can out of a totalled Class C RV my BIL owns (Serious water damage to the coach work, non repairable unless we want to fully rebuild the coach!)

So the plumbing related items we have salvaged are...
  1. 40 Gallon fresh water tank.
  2. ? capacity gray water tank.
  3. ? capacity black water tank.
  4. Black and Gray water dump valves.
  5. Tank sensor / control panel.
  6. Stainless steel 2 bowl kitchen sink.
  7. Oval stainless steel lavatory sink.
  8. Stainless steel low rise kitchen sink faucet that I hate.
  9. Chromed plastic lavatory sink faucet.
  10. Chromed plastic RV Tub / Shower faucet and diverter assembly.
  11. RV Tub / shower enclosure / assembly.
  12. Yellowed white Oxygenics shower head.
  13. City water inlet piece with locking door.
  14. Misc braided PVC hose, and clamps.

The water pump and hot water heater are known to be bad. and need to be replaced.

I have a nice high rise Glacier Bay (Home Depot Delta clone) brushed nickel / stainless steel faucet with pull out sprayer I am intending on using instead of the low rise RV unit.

I have a nice, refurbished by me, Delta single handle chrome faucet I am planning on using for the bathroom instead of the chromed plastic piece.

I know I am going to need the following items, and am looking for the best deals on them.
  1. Ecotemp or similar on demand hot water heater. But which one?
  2. 12v water pump. Again, which one?
  3. Chrome Oxygenics shower head.
  4. Porcelain, elongated bowl RV Toilet. (Best deal on a Dometic 320?)

I am pretty sure I am going to need valves, check valves, pex piping, but how much, and any clue what I should be looking to pay?

The tub assembly is interesting. It's basically 4 pieces, the tub, and the 3 walls (1 piece each). The tub is built sort of like a residential unit, but a LOT smaller, and is plastic resin over what appears to be stainless steel, with a steel beam / cleat on each side to bolt to... The shower walls appear to be simply plastic sheets. The original attachment looks like liquid nails, and not a lot of it. There was a little bit of caulk sealing things up. So....

Looks like I am going to want.
  1. Stainless steel wood screws to attach tub to framing.
  2. Liquid Nails for projects to attach shower surround.
  3. Tub and tile caulk to seal the seams, and penetrations.
  4. Pipe tape to seal the plumbing joints.
  5. One of those shower curtain rods that bows in / out to make more room in the shower. I'm a big dude, I need the space...
  6. Shower curtain / liner.

What else am I missing / not thinking about?
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:14 AM   #2
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
You will want cement board behind the shower walls. Plywood isn't good enough.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:44 AM   #3
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Location: Tahoe
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
You will want cement board behind the shower walls. Plywood isn't good enough.
Or redguard. You can paint that onthe plywood. Or a waterproof membrane at least 12" up the side walls.
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Old 04-20-2018, 02:23 PM   #4
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 500
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
I'm going to use hardiboard with redgard.
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Old 04-20-2018, 04:44 PM   #5
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
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Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
So you guys know what you are doing, but for anyone else I'll still recommend cement-board.

The key property is that it doesn't flex like wood, and in a mobile situation you do want the walls behind the shower to move as little as possible.

In a home, the house doesn't move
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:10 PM   #6
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Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 3,444
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Hardiboard is nice because you can get it in 1/4" thick which saves on weight and dimensions. Every square inch on a build is important.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:06 PM   #7
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
I've used both cement board and hardiboard in non-mobile applications. I'd recommend Hardi board for the ease of install. I'd also recommend Redgard or Aqualock type paint on products for the waterproofing membrane which is the most important part in a shower or bath area. No matter the substrate behind the membrane, keeping it dry is the important part.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:30 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NorCal
Posts: 39
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: E-350
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
If you're more adventurous, you can make your own ultrasonic tank level sensor:

Measuring Water Level With Ultrasonic Sensor: 7 Steps
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:11 AM   #9
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: League City, Texas
Posts: 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
So you guys know what you are doing, but for anyone else I'll still recommend cement-board.

The key property is that it doesn't flex like wood, and in a mobile situation you do want the walls behind the shower to move as little as possible.

In a home, the house doesn't move
Wouldn't some flexibility be desireable in an installation that is going to be bumping, shaking, and vibrating its way down less than optimally maintained roads?
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:04 AM   #10
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
Wouldn't some flexibility be desireable in an installation that is going to be bumping, shaking, and vibrating its way down less than optimally maintained roads?
No, it needs to be stiff and we use high-flex elastomeric sealant.

The Hardiboard is cement board, it's just a brand name.
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