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Old 11-03-2018, 07:39 PM   #11
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With regard to your CITY water inlet hookup I suggest you install a water pressure regulator just before the your city water inlet on/off valve.

Water pressure can vary widely from city water system to water system. I have seen inlet pressures over 100 lbs/inch numerous times in different water systems which is way too high pressure for a water heater and other appliances/items that are hooked up to your water system.

Cheap insurance to avoid an appliance problem or a burst water pipe or connection.
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Old 11-03-2018, 08:55 PM   #12
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What he said...100%. Install a pressure regulator BEFORE the inlet to keep everything happy.
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:22 PM   #13
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I'm looking to link together two fresh tanks to get a decent amount of fresh water. Both tanks will sit at the rear of the bus, under the master bedroom - framed in, straps blah blah. Has anyone got a good method for combining two tanks? I'm thinking of -

- Cutting a second 1.5" hole in the bottom/side of tank 1.
- Inserting a 1.5" PVC pipe
- Using JB Weld (Epoxy, looks like it's good stuff) to seal/secure the PVC pipe
- Using 2 pieces of transparent PVC piping to link everything together - One between the inlet and tank 1, another between tank 1 and tank 2.
- Venting using 0.5" PEX from both tanks via a T.
- 0.5" PEX to pump etc.

Anyone spot any serious issues with the above?

I've come to the realisation that my plan to use push to fit everywhere is faulted in that I've still got to make connections to appliances/tanks. I'm thinking of using hose clamps for this to avoid having to buy a cinch tool/clamps etc. Is this a terrible idea?

The drop between the outlet of tank 2 and my pump is going to be minimal. I'm thinking this is ok, providing they are level/a little drop.

Any advice appreciated!
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Old 12-06-2018, 11:17 PM   #14
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For combining the tanks look at tank bulkhead fittings.

Ted
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:30 AM   #15
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Basic plan attached. More questions -

I’ve scribbled out a ball valve after the accumulator in favour of having it after the inlet lines combine. I know that the pump has a built in check valve, but does it matter if the accumulator doesn’t?

Has anyone ‘hardlined’ in the urine tank of a compost toilet to the grey tank before? Saw it in a video and liked the idea.
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Old Yesterday, 12:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJones View Post
For combining the tanks look at tank bulkhead fittings.

Ted
Thanks for this, I like the look of Blind Bulkhead fittings. This would be a contender with my 'glue in a pvc pipe' technique.

For the time being, I'm going to try just getting from the 3/4" NPT outlet from tank 1 to the 1 1/4" inlet on tank 2. I'm hoping that with both tanks vented it shouldn't necessarily be an bottleneck issue between the tanks.
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Old Today, 12:51 AM   #17
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If you want to join anything PVC you'd better first check that your adhesive of choice actually bonds to PVC. Low surface-energy materials like most Polyolefins are notoriously difficult to glue. There are some special PVC adhesives out there, but they're few and far between. If you decide to go that route, you should test-glue various adhesives and substrates to check which adhesives work and which don't. Also, using a rigid adhesive such as epoxy or cyanoacrylate will not work so well on a flexible material such as PVC.

It would be better to have a rotomolder spin-weld in some threaded fittings, then you can use standard MPT connections or hose barb adapters. I have them on all four of my tanks - nothing can come unstuck or leak, ever.

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