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Old 05-20-2017, 07:46 PM   #21
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Nice work Stu. My tank being plastic, I think the long mudflap is adequate here for stopping anything from hitting directly. Time will tell I guess.

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Old 05-20-2017, 08:25 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by -cycosis- View Post
How did you prevent forward/backward movement?
My water tanks' tops sit within surround frames attached to the floor (Crown floors are 1.5" thick marine ply) and also bolted to some cross-members - these surrounds prevents the tanks from moving sideways towards the outside of the bus and from moving backwards. The tanks are blocked from moving forward by structural cross-members in front of them, and cannot move inwards by the frame rails. This way they are positively located in all four horizontal directions, so then the ten hangers only have to support them vertically up against their surround frames under the floor. This ensures that they absolutely cannot move at all. The gray and poo tanks are located similarly.

Looking at those clamps, I'm thinking that they are intended to reduce the time taken on large construction projects, in other words a labor-saving device. They do what's intended, but are they suitable for a vehicle? How well would they resist vibration and the inevitable flexing and slight movement in a bus? If they are UL-listed, does the listing include use in a vehicle? I would never rely on only a friction-fit for anything subject to vibration and movement. Or maybe I'm just being unduly cautious?

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Old 05-20-2017, 09:01 PM   #23
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On my Crown I have cross supports going from the frame to the body &. That's where my big ass muffler was hanging from, I bolted uni strut to the cross members & & came off those with the all thread for the black tank.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:42 PM   #24
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Those clamps are heavily used here in Canada, anything from nukes, steelmills auto plants etc. Never been a problem I'm aware of. In our nukes the whole complex constantly vibrates in a harsh environment. 1000Megawatt reactors turned by a compressor system 400 feet long. Yes, they vibrate more than one would think. Overhead cranes in there rattle along the steel with 150 tons swinging in the air. Just like a locomotive steaming along the tracks.So the clamps do work well.
I guess there is always that chance though...chit does happen. Mostly to us skoolies,


......Do any of you know that a lock-washer is intended to be installed with one face inward the way it is designed?
If backwards, they will eventually back-off the thread or bolt. i am sure many didn't know this. Took me many year to find that out as it was never questioned in the industrial electrical business. Who knew?
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Old 05-21-2017, 06:39 AM   #25
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are you talking about a star lockwasher or the split type?
-Christopher
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Old 05-21-2017, 07:28 AM   #26
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Me bad Christopher, the split type. The star type never entered my mind. Not sure about those.
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Old 05-21-2017, 12:25 PM   #27
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Incenijohn.
Yes time saving,money saving in labour and drill bits. But it also changes a structural engineers mind in not having to over design steel because of all the holes drilled in it. And all he has to worry about the load hanging from it.
I use that style of clamp all the time and yes they are designed with a seismic idea.
I run up to 20" schedule 40 steel pipe that carries water,glycol,steam thats expands and contracts up to a couple of feet depending on whether it is heating or cooling or converting from 180-210 plus to 40-35 (seasonal changeover) overnight.
Yes I questioned there ability along time ago but I have seen my own installations still working and hanging there 20-years later holding 1000's of pound of working steel and water.
And it has been mentioned about 1/2"-5/8" all thread sometimes I am up to 1" rod but the beam clamp is still built the same?
Good luck with you choices.
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Old 05-21-2017, 06:35 PM   #28
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Me bad Christopher, the split type. The star type never entered my mind. Not sure about those.
im intruiged because I didnt know there was and up and down on a lock washer... now I need to know how to tell which is which.. I have had them come loose before..
-Christopher
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:26 AM   #29
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Adding a tank and a wash space to the bus.

Am not much sure of the conversation here. But what I did at my home in adding the tank, with the helper of a plumber in Calgary.
He visited me with the required tools and set me a small wash area and a tank connected to the system where the flow starts.
Happy happy with the addition.
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:15 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Is this what your talking about?
not sure who found these first but keeping in mind that they are used in beams that hold up roofs so they dont drill holes in the beams and weaken them is the same for truck frames NEVER cut drill or weld onto a frame from the front spring pin on steer axel to the rear pin of the last drive axel as it weakens the frame. some holes are permitted but the truck and frame manufacturer have a guide available for attachment methods these would be a good idea
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:31 PM   #31
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anyone tried using semi truck fuel tank brackets and bolting them straight to the frame. i was thinking something along the lines of this
https://www.4statetrucks.com/fuel-ta...CABEgJ5D_D_BwE

2 of those brackets holding up this 100 gal tank
HZ010023 100 Gallon Horizontal Tank

my only concern is the tanks wall thickness of .200'' (5mm), unlike actual rv tanks with thicker walls, seems kinda thin
to be strapped down real tight and may need an additional craddle or something.
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