School me on allthread for install grey and black tanks underneath

[-cycosis-]

Im at a stage where I have my tanks now but Im not too sure how to approach getting them installed under the bus. Lots of people have welded up frames using angle iron. I dont have any welding equipment nor do I want to invest in any.

I have seen some allthread applications. Will it work for a 30 gallon black and an 85 gallon grey?

Did you "hang" it from the steel floor of the bus? Or was it hung from the cross bracing? What did you hang it with?

Any info appreciated!

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by -cycosis-

Im at a stage where I have my tanks now but Im not too sure how to approach getting them installed under the bus. Lots of people have welded up frames using angle iron. I dont have any welding equipment nor do I want to invest in any.

I have seen some allthread applications. Will it work for a 30 gallon black and an 85 gallon grey?

Did you "hang" it from the steel floor of the bus? Or was it hung from the cross bracing? What did you hang it with?

Any info appreciated!

I used uni strut & allthread to make mounts for my waste tanks & propane tanks.

[Jolly Roger]

Check out today's discussion on drilling welding the frame.
All thread is great and will hold almost anything you want to.
The only issue with all thread is if you have to bend it? According to manufacturer's testing and a lot of other sources it loses its strength at around an 8 degree deflection.
Use galvanized or zinc coated and never worry about it again.
I used galvanized UniStrut all the way around and short pieces of all thread for bolts.
Exact fit with no adjustment? But that was my choice.
If you do use all thread I would recommend double nuts on each end for jamnuts or locknuts,lock washers only work if you can Jim them and make them lock?
Check out the other threads today
Good luk

[-cycosis-]

I get how to install the bottom part but I dont get how to install the top portion.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by -cycosis-

I get how to install the bottom part but I dont get how to install the top portion.

I ran two hangers per tank, equidistant from the tank ends or if not a flat bottom tank, then wherever appropriate once you get to that point.

To run those angers I went on the frame at a high point in the corrugated metal floor enclosure. Slid them in form the side of the bus and just over the second piece of the main bus frame. Beam clamp there,2 per side.
So you can picture them resting on the frame extending to as far out on either side of the bus as you want. I can't remember the maximum hanger length roughly 6-7 feet.

So now you can see where the rods have to go to suspend the tank, 4 per tank. You may know in advance and be able to pre-drill but the main hangers can be taken out as that is heard to drill under there.
I just used 3/8 galvanised rod and washers nuts. I intentionally damaged the threads on the bottom of each rod once I knew everything was to my liking appearance wise.

Over the main frame you could fit black pipe also but steel mounted easier with clamps.

[Iceni John]

I hung my two 110-gallon water tanks and the 115-gal gray tank with ten 1/2" threaded rod hangers each, and the 65-gallon poo tank has six 1/2" hangers. Yes, I know that's overkill, even after factoring in possible dynamic loads of two to three times their static laden weight. The water tanks' inner hangers are attached at their top to five pieces of heavy channel steel that span the frame rails' lower flanges, but all the gray tank's hangers are straight in the frame rails! I drilled 1/2" holes exactly on the centerline of the lower flanges - drilling through 90,000 PSI steel is not fun until I realized I could push the drill up with a 12-ton bottle jack - easy! And before you say I shouldn't have drilled through the frame, Crown drilled holes everywhere for spring brackets and whatnots, sometimes not even on the neutral-stress centerlines, so I'm not worried at all about making a few more holes. The water tanks' and poo tank's outer hangers are attached through longitudinal stringers connecting the floor and side walls. All four tanks sit on support frames made from heavy angle steel (courtesy of USMCAS El Toro!) with 1/2" plywood bases, and the water tanks also have 1/2" ply sides to protect them from road debris and to help slightly insulate them.

It was a PIA to install each tank, but thankfully it was a one-time job - I had to jack up the side of the bus sufficient to slide the tank in under the bodyside, lower the bus back down over the tank, then manhandle it up into position before securing it to the hangers. Each complete water tank weighed just over 100 pounds empty! It took a full eight hour day just to install each of the three big tanks.

You're only going to do this job once, so do it right. Use more hangers than you think it will ever need, double-nut them, and positively prevent any longitudinal movement of the tanks so that their hangers only have to support them vertically. I sometimes try to imagine if my bus were to be picked up and shaken vigorously - would anything move or loosen at all?

John

[-cycosis-]

How did you prevent forward/backward movement?

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by -cycosis-

How did you prevent forward/backward movement?

Not sure if that question was for me or John Iceni. In my case I had no bottom frame. Once my rods were hung I then used 1" pie, 2 lengths that just were a bit wider than the tank itself, one on top, one underneath the tank. The nuts on the rod then turn upon the bottom with the use of flat and lock washers and down on the top pipe to sandwich the tank. It really stiffens the whole build up and there is zero movement in any direction.

[Stu & Filo. T]

Hey Blackjohn, could you post a pic or a link on exactly what your talking about as far as Beam Clamps, The ones I see online I'm not quite grasping exactly how you did it. Thanks

[BlackJohn]

Hello Stu and Filo too. Nice of you to ask and I will get something to you soon on this. I haven't posted any pics yet as I am waiting for when I have my bus more finished inside, should be soon.
Stu, you seem familiar with fasteners, esp UniStrut etc. The clamps I discussed are used in the trades for hanging rod for all types of piping runs. They are essentially a C clamp looking affair with a bolt on one side that tightens down on the beam and the rod screws into the other end.The bolt has a jam nut on it and makes it pull very tight to the beam. I did this about 3-4 years ago so haven't touched it again. Actually, I may have used a U bolt over my pipe hangers and then tightened on the beam.
I will do my best to get pics for you soon, maybe you can post them. I am limited to time and presently incapacitated.

John

[Jolly Roger]

I was getting ready to use the same c-clamp explanation and I suck at posting pics but I will try tomorrow with my phone cause it actually shows a pic link where my iPad don't?
Look at ms-sp-58,59and 60 hangers.
It's a UL listing that shows all types of stuff but it will give you the specs that all are tested to. Weight load limit and all.
If anyone chooses the heavier duty cast clamps then pay attention to the torque specs for the 7/16" set screw? I was hanging a lot of 10 and 12" pipe with beam clamps and some started breaking? Turns out my 12" crescent wrench was over torquing? I wanted to make sure they didn't move?
After a call to ANVIL. The torque specs were being exceeded with a 12" wrench. The torque specs ended up being (inch-pounds)what you can do with an 8" wrench.

[Stu & Filo. T]

Is this what your talking about?

[-cycosis-]

Where do you get those?

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by -cycosis-

Where do you get those?

I see them in Grainger.

[Stu & Filo. T]

Just my opinion I personally wouldn't go 3/8 tread, Crown used 5/8 thread on the fueltank straps so that's what I went with. Not saying it's wrong just personal preference.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T

Is this what your talking about?

Precisely, heavily used in industrial piping applications. Main advantages are
no drilling needed. No welding needed. Labour saving for sure.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by -cycosis-

Where do you get those?

Most electrical or plumbing supply outlets have them. Or if you know any electricians, pipefitters or sprinkler installers hit them up. You need 3/8 or 1/2 inch rod, nuts, flat washers and lock washers then you are good.
And as was advised earlier by JR, not to be over-torqued which leads to failure of the metals involved. An over-torqued bolt is already half broke.

[Jolly Roger]

A lot of sources, ERICO,ANVIL, Grainger is a good source. FASTENAL,HILTI.
Anvil is an actual manufacturer and the rest are supply companies.
They are commercial suppliers so sticker shock might get you but the cost of good drill bits will to.
I used UniStrut frames all the way around and only used threaded rod for bolts.
They have full UniStrut design ideas including l-brackets for corners and base plates for mounting that would work with u-bolts to fasten to the frame.
Look at HILTI UniStrut systems. They are high priced because each one comes with an engineer stamp. Look at them and then go to Erico or Grainger to buy the pieces cheaper.
I am fortunate cause I work with that kind of application all the time and have access to spare parts and stuff that would normally be left for the dumpster by other trades.
I plan for all my storage underside to be built out of a UniStrut type system. One cause I have access and knowledge of it and two because I weld for a living and believe that a UniStrut system will be better for many reasons.
Like if I bottom out onto my storage area and its welded solid then all that area has to be cut out and re welded but with a UniStrut system that is all bolted then it will give and twist turn in the bolts and then only a few pieces will have to be mucked with.
I know the sheetmetal is gone regardless but just loosening and tightening some bolts verses having to cut away a welded structure while out and about is a lot more doable.
UniStrut is made in many gauges of thickness with holes every 1" or slots every 1-1/2" center or plain with no holes.
18-guage is light duty and 10-guage is heavy duty which decides how much support it can hold without intermediate. But when you buy it or before you buy it you can look at the DATA for the thicknesses if you research the top brand stuff. Hope you don't but?
When you go into a hospital and end up having to look at an X-Ray machine or anything like that that is supported from above?
Anything newer than around the 89-90 era is hanging from a UniStrut system above the ceiling.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T

I used uni strut & allthread to make mounts for my waste tanks & propane tanks.

Great looking job you did Stu. Is the bottom of the tank wider so as to act as a flange for bolting? Nice idea and looks heavy duty enough for that size tank.

John

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Great looking job you did Stu. Is the bottom of the tank wider so as to act as a flange for bolting? Nice idea and looks heavy duty enough for that size tank.

John

Yes it is wider & it's a 1/4 " plate, I originally put a plastic black tank there then realized first time driving down the road them duals would throw something thru it so I took a 112 gal fuel tank & cut it in half longways then trimmed 3 more inches off the top piece & weled on the plate.